Efficient Campus Board Training | Adam Ondra's Training Series Ep.3

In part three of our new training series with Adam Ondra, we catch up with the man himself at his home climbing gym in Brno, Czech Republic. This time, we're looking at campus boarding, which Adam considers to be one of the most efficient training tools available to climbers. Adam urges caution, however, as improper technique is a one way ticket to finger injury.

[ReaIJohnDoe]

He's completely posessed when he switches on, haha. Such a nerdy character with this psycho inner beast, a real character.

[earlgrey]

"You should be climbing AT LEAST a 7b route.. "

I don't belong here.. sayonara

[donguillaume]

Those double dynos using two fingers blew my mind! That is power

[auroravuitton]

Magnus midtbo just posted a video showing him ATTEMPTING 1-5-9. that just put into perspective how impossible this move actually is

[btbt]

Adam is such an character, thank you, awesome video!

[larvitardratini]

Pause the video and just look at his forearms when he's campusing the upside down slopers

[noahreynolds]

i dont even understand the undercling on slopers with no feet part

[IsraeliGuy]

Very informative, love these videos! Thanks for posting and thanks for taking the time to do these training vids Adam!

[lakersnonfan]

The uplifting soft rock towards the end while he is making ungodly guttural moans and groans is pretty hilarious tbh

[escapevelocity]

Thanks for giving it to us straight brother. Love your energy

[alexanderwoehrleitner]

I feel like for 7B, finger strength is needed that can't only be coming from climbing alone. maybe hangboard instead of campus then?

Just another level of climbing, epic video!

[kaym]

Are the campus slopers considered less dangerous than say, the finger board or bars? Assuming they put much less strain on finger tendons, are they ok for beginners? Preferably static hanging over dynamic moves or slow controlled moves in general? Would love some input from people with more experience than me =)

[JoBianco]

"Campus board training" IN REALITY: Ondra doing things we could never dream of

[Mylada]

We have a campus board set up in our gym that allows you to use small footholds. I have only been bouldering for 4 months and my top grade is 7a+. I just started using the campus board and I can really feel the difference in strength even after 2 weeks. You can rarely get such pure power training on the wall. Definitely start doing campus training, if you can manage to do it safely! This way your strength improves with your technique and you won't hit a wall because you are just too weak.

[Ponem]

If you want to increase the intensity of the training you can do more reps or sets or use weights

[Boxerkyd]

this is fucking ridiculous. definition of beast mode.

[dandan]

1-5-9 is just a dream to me...1-5 is doable, but the 5-9 part...is not

[timtom]

Maybe 1-5-8 and 1-5-9 decides whether you are able to climb 9b(+) or a 9c

[nathanrakman]

i’m literally perfect, just hit my 2 years of climbing, just did my first 7b+, and 16 isn’t that mind blowing guys