How climbers get STRONG fingers (3 methods)

Timestamps:
0:00 Introduction
1:20 Energy system lesson
2:05 Hangboard
8:58 Spray wall
13:00 Campus board
17:32 How to implement each method yourself

Today we're taking a look at three ways of training for climbing, and specifically the three most commonly used methods for training finger strength.

Instagram:

[LatticeTraining]

Nice video Emil! To add to the conversation I thought it might be interesting to add a note on campusing on boulders. You mention this could be a good way to introduce climbers to campusing before moving to the actual campus board, which we agree with. Lots of nice hold options to start with! We also think campusing on boulders is a great idea for world class athletes too. We've seen many elite climbers use footless bouldering sessions to great effect. Some V16 boulderers here in the UK very rarely use a campus board but do their campusing on system boards or woodies. The introduction on more complex movement and multidirectional holds makes it in many ways better than traditional campusing for these elite climbers. Keep up the good work Emil ✊

[Ganooli]

i thought this would be just another finger strength video but you explained it in a way i havent seen before nice job!

[HoopersBeta]

Possibly the best thumbnail of any climbing video? 😛💪 EDIT: Psyched to see you discussing the trackability of all these modalities. I think that's a very under-analyzed, under-utilized aspect of so many climbers' training programs. Thanks for the great video!
-Emile

[felslius]

This was so informative and similtaneously highly motivating! Great structure btw, and thanks for explaining all of this so well :)

[benmills]

I really enjoyed the style you used to explain all the info. I think there's a perfect amount of detail for anyone of almost any level to get started and feel confident. Awesome job!! :)

[matenw.]

Great video, I like the mix of recent videos! Nice mix of outdoor, indoor and training. Perfect follow-up to your last upload too. Thanks for the effort you put in your videos!

[TuvofLuv]

Fast becoming the most informative and interesting climbing channel on the Tube. Good to see a mix up of new ideas and styles coming through. Up there with Magnus and Erik Horst.

[kevintoutain]

Thanks you so much for putting the work to produce this video! By far the best finger strength video I've seen yet. Detailed enough without getting in the rabbit hole of technicity and clear/easy to understand and relate to!

[giorgiogrosso]

That is exactly the videos I love: concise informative without sacrificing entertainment (which is definitely not easy while talking about training). Also might motivate me to finally start training more analytically and less randomly. Keep up the good work dude

[ethanrichards]

Thanks for the great info Emil, learnt a lot even after doing lots of research into these different training methods before. Keep it up.

[gabrieldib]

Fantastic video Emil, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to put it out here in the world.

[victoryzy]

Woah! One of my favourite videos on training so far. Love the going in depth and sharing the pros and cons + risk reward section. Informative and entertaining 😄

[mark_makes]

Lovely, detailed video! Thanks for putting in the time to document these training methods

[mcbo]

this is massive episode... the most competent and reliable I could find... thank You mate

[simongutekunst]

Great Video! I think a combination of Max Hangs and snappy moves like on a Spraywall or Campusboard might be the way to go, not seeing them exclusively. Increasing your maximum finger flexor force in a controlled way with the hangs and then learning to access it as quickly as possible. Would be really interesting to see your maximum hangs and rate of force development tested in an assessment with the digital lattice rung :) keep it up :)

[ParitoshPotukuchi]

Nice timing Emil. Keep your work coming. It's really informative

[richardabrahamse]

Great Job on the video Emil!! And that you are in my home gym showing these exersise is even more exiting. Keep it up.

[anthonyb]

This video was awesome. Thanks for sharing your great overview of finger strength and the methods to get better!

[williamgrignon]

This was really good and informative, it really shows that you put a lot of effort in this video. Thank you 🙏🏻

[emiltraidl]

Thank you so much for this episode Emil!
I can nowmake choices regarding my finger training on a more informed basis!