Global Shutter vs HSS vs Neutral Density Test

preview_player
Показать описание


Subscribe to the Fstoppers Youtube Channel:

Our Gear: 📷 and 🎥Workflow Recommendations:

🥰Our Favorite Gear

💻Software📀
Adobe Creative Cloud

Boris FX Optics:

Luminar Neo

Capture One

🛒🏪🛍 Support Fstoppers by shopping at:

B&H Photo and Video

Amazon

📸Follow Fstoppers on Instagram:
Follow Lee and Patrick's Puerto Rico Instagram:
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор








Subscribe to the Fstoppers Youtube Channel:


Our Gear: 📷 and 🎥Workflow Recommendations:


🥰Our Favorite Gear


💻Software📀
Adobe Creative Cloud


Boris FX Optics:


Luminar Neo


Capture One


🛒🏪🛍 Support Fstoppers by shopping at:


B&H Photo and Video


Amazon


📸Follow Fstoppers on Instagram:
Follow Lee and Patrick's Puerto Rico Instagram:

FStoppers
Автор

The color shift at 13:01 is most likely due to the shutter speed being too high to capture the full flash. The power curve you discussed in your previous video is linked to the flash's light power output and the color temperature the flash produces. The first part of the flash curve tends to be cooler, and the end of the curve tends to be warmer. With strobes and most recent studio flashes, at lower power, you tend to get a more blueish light than with full power images because the flash curve is cut before you get the warmer part of it. The same goes when you switch the action or speed more of your flash on; the light tends to get cooler as the tale of the curve is being cut to optimize for short flash duration.

In your case, it's most likely due to the flash being longer than the exposure; thus, you get the early part of the curve. Adjusting the flash timing on the camera, you may get a different part of the curve, thus a different temperature and power output. That's the issue with global shutter; there are so many variables that consistency shot to shot may be difficult to reach. Try and use your flash trigger with close to empty batteries, and you may notice more significant variations because the triggering is not as snappy as it should be 😵‍💫

quentindecaillet
Автор

It was micro seconds not nano. It is milli -> micro -> nano

FelixCervantes
Автор

Thank you for a DETAILED & COMPREHENSIVE demonstration of Global shutter and flashes. What an excellent job!

mauriciolee
Автор

FANTASTIC VIDEO!!!!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR DOING IT

valdemarcaballero
Автор

Nice I think it’s not that bad
, Twerking, the flash duration will get quicker at it as we do it. It’ll become second nature thanks for this inspiring video. Hope you’re having fun down in Puerto Rico.

Jwitherow
Автор

Nice breakdown of the process to find the sync delays. It will hopefully be a solved problem by the time I’m upgrading to a global shutter body.

DonHuff
Автор

Thank you, thank you so very much, I was going crazy trying to figure this out…the best

SanMiguelBulls
Автор

Deceiving title ... I was not expecting this is part 2 of the global shutter video :o

JoATTech
Автор

I would love to see you do a flash comparison test with a leaf shutter vs global

derrick
Автор

@11:30 If you had the mechanical shutter turned off and still got banding, you probably using the mechanical shutter with the electronic front curtain, yes?

MichaelGAubrey
Автор

You could've used a fixed ND. VNDs are known for color casting and sharpness issues (2 glasses instead of 1).

sharp_focus
Автор

I wish I had thought to ask if you guys were still living in Puerto Rico when we came down last October to shoot some airbnbs in Luquillo

johnsoncityaerialphotograp
Автор

11:52 Is it YouTube compression or is there severe banding on the left frame?

SamFigueroa
Автор

HSS on a tiny speedlights doesn't work effectively because in HSS mode the flash is not operating at full power and that speedlight cut by half is not enough light to counter the sun. You have to use a more powerful flash to compensate for the lost of power.

legenderry
Автор

Whenever you use a variable ND or CPL, you should set a custom white balance to get consistent results. Had you done that for the control group and the ND pics, the colors would have matched (but likely some softening of image due to filter).

If you are a working professional that uses strobes all the time, the A9iii is worth it, despite the steep learning curve. But for mere mortals, it's much more practical to just use an ND with traditional sync speeds. Awesome job on this tutorial!!

RandumbTech
Автор

Perfectly presented. I have no further questions lol.
The thought at the end about using multiple flashes at different powers hadn't occurred to me. Global shutter is unmatched for single flash outdoors, but a possible headache with multiple flashes.

Deatarus
Автор

Loved the video, thanks for the info!

mauriciomilenkorodriguezpa
Автор

What would you say are the nain differences between the westcott system vs profoto ... my flashes are sometimes not that reliable but profoto is just crazy expensive

FiistFlaag
Автор

the 1/500th of a second sync limitation is for using TTL. In manual mode it will sync at any speed up to 1.8. Wider than 1.8 the camera limits the fastest shutter speed to 1/16, 000 (which creates a variety of problems for using some GM primes wide open in bright light because of the high base ISO).

astrotennessee
join shbcf.ru