Dealing With Dampness in Walls 100% Fix

Roger is plastering a cellar wall and adds some extra damp proofing with Drybase from Safeguard.

Drybase Flex

A watertight low-profile sheet membrane for protection against dampness in walls without the need to drill and install plugs.

The membrane is a 1.5 mm thick flexible polypropylene sheet with a fleeced surface on both sides.

The two fleeces ensure good adhesion to the wall by means of Drybase Flex Adhesive, as well as the direct application of plaster to the face.

Drybase Flex Adhesive

Drybase Flex Adhesive is a polymer modified cement-based product used to fix Drybase Flex Membrane to walls.

It is supplied in powder form ready to be mixed with water, and applied using a suitable trowel.

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#Drybase #DampProofing #Safeguard

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[stuffoflardohfortheloveof]

Worked as a grant officer in the welsh valleys many years ago. We had/have quite a few 2-storey front/3-storey rear terrace houses with steel grills on the front pavement that, historically, could have been the coal merchant drop off point to the underground basement. These, over the years, were bricked up and had windows fitted allowing light into the basement. The damp issues were enormous but building control came up with a relatively simple, and the cheapest, solution in that they allowed the ‘builders’ to construct a complete inner block wall forming a cavity as they went. In the bottom of the cavity was an open channelled gulley that, as you said, allowed the collection of water and delivered it via a new drain out to the rear of the property. Always seemed to work a treat. 👍

[hs]

This man is a great instructor and communicator!

[gdfggggg]

I’ve used SBR mixed with cement very successfully in the past.

[mindaugasvaskevicius]

I believe that the damp should be minimized from entering the concrete, because at a certain point of damp it erodes/weakens the concrete. By sealing the damp inside the wall it solves the problem inside and on the surface of the wall, but the sealed damp can damage the structural integrity of the wall. I need to do the outside thing, mentioned in the video, alongside with thermal insulation, then I'll decide if i need to damp proof my basement from the inside. Another thing that worked for me: sufficient ventilation

[accesszero]

Glad u done this video, am just about to use it in my kitchen and some rentals to stop the sulphate come through from the chimney next door

[bertharius]

I had a utility room where the external ground level was at the height of the ceiling. (The old house was built into the side of a hill). There had been damp issues for some time - even pools of water on the floor. I removed the old plasterboard only to find that the original wall had foil-covered insulation all over it and was saturated and moldy. I removed all of this to then reveal that the wall looked as if a bucket of water had been thrown at it. Anyway, built a timber framework - horizontal battens (with dpm strips behind them) and vertical battens on top. Fitted new damp-proof plasterboard and several vents were installed at the top and bottom of the plasterboard which were then mostly hidden by new kitchen cabinets. Since then, no smell, no damp, no problems. Of course, the original wall may still be slightly damp but within that framework cavity, it is constantly evaporating through good ventilation. I'm sure some professionals could offer an alternative method but I just thought that if you SEAL IN the damp it can only get worse. (This is not to suggest that Roger is wrong though).

[seanjopson]

I've got issues with a upstairs wall on a gableend, any video on upstairs at all would be great?

Love your page by the way.

[spankysmp]

This is a cracking channel - been subbed for a while despite being a no-hoper DIY person.
We got our cellar tanked up about 20 years ago as it wasn't that wet. Just storage and a 'cave' Few issues started cropping up recently - salts coming through the plaster but nothing major. What was the slurry you said you used? I might give that a go or look at the Drybase as it's really only spots and not whole walls. Thanks

[ChrisHow]

Bloody hell Dylan, that editing at the start was tight, I thought I was either watching Philip deFranco by mistake or I'd had a mini-stroke

[MichaelPickles]

I'm a DIY'er

I'm thinking after watching all these videos, . How do people get Roger to come and do work for them?

Every time I have a job I need to do, I always end up watching Rodger!

Today's job is cutting a basement concrete floor, digging up and tanking the wall then putting a draining for it.

He makes things look so easy...

[GavinLawrence]

If the cellar or basement has some elevated moisture levels, are you not better off installing a humidity sensing ventilation system to keep the air moving through the cellar and therefore keep it dry and dry is not cold ?

[scotthenry]

CT 1 has been a favourite of mine for a long time now, it just works, good for almost everything! Is a very good glue for rubber ive found, which is hard to find something that will glue various types of rubber and is flexible

[TomTomTomTom]

You've blocked the moisture from appearing, but it's still there, how will you stop it creeping up and causing more problems in the future?

[johnpaulmawa]

Where can I get the membrane and all the other stuff needed to get this done?

[francoisgs]

can I check what was the product you place first to have the wall to crystallize and seal the wall ?? Thanks

[malcolmfunnell]

You always take the environment into account, and it’s impact of the property this is missed by 99.9 % of all builders, it’s the most important consideration overlooked

[RestWithin]

Don’t you just end up with damp and mould growing behind the membrane?

[goesbysteve]

What happens to the water though! If it’s coming into the wall but prevented coming through to the tanking can it damage the wall or mortar? I have a concrete block garage which has a wall below grade that gets a little damp. I like the idea of an internal solution but worried I’d just be hiding the issue behind a barrier.

[slackmouth]

The Sika 1 render system in my opinion is a belt and braces system to go for, apply 3 x 6mm coats of render for walls and floor, all corners and junctions get a hypalon bandage installed because you are using a cementitious product and is liable to crack at junctions.Sump and pump systems with sheet drain mean there is always maintenance to be taken in to consideration.

[francoisgs]

what to place first against the wall to stop all humidity or wetness coming through before placing the cloth material? the outside of the wall is against soil which cant be dig out thanks