Say Goodbye to Rising Damp - A Simple Solution!

Dryrod Damp Proofing Rods

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Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods - The Ultimate Rising Damp Treatment

Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods are patented fibre rods that carry a powerful water-repellent material. They are simply inserted into holes drilled at regular intervals along a mortar course. Once inserted, the rods diffuse their water-repellent material along the mortar course, curing to form an effective barrier to rising damp.

They have been scientifically proven to eliminate rising damp even in highly-saturated walls. This performance has also been internationally tested and approved.

- Eliminates rising damp without needing specialist pumps or injection tools

- Simple installation procedure - Just drill, clear and install

- Outperforms competing treatments, even in highly-saturated walls

- 100% active ingredient patented technology

- Extensively tested and internationally approved

Find out more from Safeguard.

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#risingdamp #damp #dampproof

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[Nettsinthewoods]

I’ve just been installing the rods. I’ve not done anything like this before. It’s amazingly easy, but hard work for a small female like me. I’ve got the Stormdry express waterproof
mortar to tidy up the holes. It’s always so helpful to have tutorials like these and see what the professionals do. Thank you

[waynewinky]

As an architect following investigation if the root cause of the damp cannot be identified and remedied on site, then we sometimes specify an injected DPC resin system into the masonry applied at around 150mm above floor level. Internally we then specify 2 coats of a painted waterproof coating system, whether it be bitumen based or liquid tanking applied to the exposed brick/block from the floor level up to and 50mm above the injected DPM line so that their is a continuous barrier at the base of a wall if water is trying to move upward. However, we would then specify a lime plaster scratch coat and finishing coat as it allows the plaster to breath compared to standard gypsum plasters. Lime plaster is used in damp and cold environments like churches as it doesnt show any inherent damp or tide marks visually caused by a damp masonry substrate.

[mikeraphone]

The old pub in East Hagbourne called the travelers welcome had a unpainted brick exterior. When the property was sold and converted into a house the owners complained about the damp . It was there painting of the old clay bricks stopped the wall from breathing and it was down hill all the way. The solution I told them is to strip off the outside paintwork as that was causing the problem.

[daves]

Used it on a terrace chimney breast which was salting on the plaster surface. So far so good. Viewers should note the rods have a best before date as the chemical has an active ingredient so there is a shelf life to unopened rods

[davidvestey]

As a Chartered Building Surveyor I make my living diagnosing damp problems. The house wasn’t damp when it was built so often it is a question of just reversing all the “improvements” that people have made. Now you have tried to insert a DPC just above the internal floor level so if it works (which I doubt) you have trapped all the rising damp in the skirtings, exactly where you don’t want it. Ask a Chartered Building Surveyor… we don’t sell products.

[minline]

I used these on my garage wall but miscalculated the wall thickness and drilled straight into my winter tyres.

[completepreservation]

WOW….Must be the only house of cavity construction without a physical damp proof course. At least eliminate bridging of the damp proof course by plaster, solid floor, or debris within the cavity…. What about drains, or even a mains leak. All of these are common problems that an averagely competent damp specialist should eliminate to find the root cause🤷 not a dig Roger, but you have massive following that you normally educate. I’ve learnt plenty from your vids over the years though 👍

[philprice]

I believe the small amount of damp would be dispersed if you had sandblasted the useless bitumen coating off to let the wall breath. Also cleaning out the debris from the cavity would solve this. Pointing the holes with cement rather than lime mortar will also not help the wall breath. Last job we did was an old Manse that was dripping wet. We dug out the floors and fitted underfloor heating . After cutting 3 foot sections through the 9 inch solid walls with a concrete chain saw . Fitted 9 inch dpc through the wall repointed and came back 2 weeks later to cut out the 3 foot in between and over lapted the pieces of dpc THen did the 4 inch internal walls the same way . So the whole house was sliced through and a perfect damp barrier installed. 3 chains used at £290 each. Saw cost 2 grand. Was water fed so a messy job. You could sell the saw on after doing the job. Doubt you can hire these. Brilliant tool slices concrete/ mortar like butter. The only way to do a perfect damp cure on an old house. Phil

[SimonHunter]

Key moment at 1:49 "we decorated the outside to stop any penetrating damp". Presumably with the bitumen? The salts on the inside wall look fairly recent so it is plausible that they only appeared AFTER the bitumen was applied. Bitumen won't let the bricks breathe naturally so the salts (carried via moisture) have to go somewhere. Was the bitumen applied as a response to damp issues elsewhere? But yes, would agree with other comments that the source needs to be established first eg remove the skirting, check for bridging of plaster to floor, floor coverings, floor, water/drain pipes etc.

[RLFWE]

The external cement render is probably a big contributor, not vapour permeable. Well done on putting the "french drains" in that's definitely going to help.

[lksf]

"We decorated the outsides" There is the issue right there, they've locked the moisture into the walls and it can't get out. So they've charged the customer for causing a damp issue, then charged them again to try and cure it. If you took the paint off you'll find the brickwork is sopping wet. Looking in the background in the first few seconds shows similar houses with no paint on them, i'd be asking them if they have any issues first.

[vooveks]

Wow, zero downsides, caveats or bad user experiences! I Enjoyed that infomercial, and I’ve immediately ordered 300 of them 😵‍💫. Order now, and receive a free set of steak knives!

[houseinavan]

My thought's....many cavity walled houses I have worked on had the BPC bridged by decades of debris, the solution is take out a few bricks at intervals scuff your arms to pieces getting in there to clear the Debis to below BPC, one I did has 400mm built up!!!, then put in several air brick's along the wall, no return of internal damp after severe years, keep the solution simple in keeping with the construction of the building.

[medwayhospitalprotest]

"Every day's a school day" must be one of my favourite expressions ever. I love learning! That's why I love this channel. Thanks bro.

[jimh]

I had dampness on an upstairs bedroom wall caused by cracks in the render. I was told the wall had to have breathable paint to let the moisture out. After two years of problems I bought some wet rot hardener that is basically a very liquid plastic. I sprayed it on the outside of the wall with a cheap hand sprayer (thrown away afterwards) two months later and the inside wall is almost dry. I am painting over it with some stain block paint then normal masonry paint. Saved me a fortune in re rendering costs.

[bp]

i had severe rising damp on an internal fire breast wall i used the Dryzone rods, 7 months on the wall is Bone dry....thanks to watching one of your videos Roger

[jannenreuben]

By "decorating" the outside wall with what looks like modern plastic paint all you've done is seal in any moisture in the wall. It's like putting on a plastic mac immediately after a shower. The bitumen on the brick plinth will have the same effect. The concrete floor will likely just push more moisture into the walls which now can't escape because of the coatings and those damp sticks you've just fitted (if they work at all). This house looks like it has had everything done that you should never do to an old house. I bet someone has done the pointing in OPC as well.

[stevenmarquiss]

The outside skin of brickwork with a cavity was designed with a view to take the rain and then dry out. The air gap between the inner and outer skin may have been bridged with mortar etc on the wall ties. Thus encouraging damp to traverse these "bridges" making the inner wall damp. Insulated cavities use other technology together rid of moisture build-up, ie drip vents in the perpendicular motar lines.

[willbee]

Be brutal. Check rainwater down pipes under the ground at the point of dampness. Take out some plinth bricks to see the cavity detail and to check for a d.p.c. Dig a trench at same location for clues. Lift that room flooring and do the same; dig down below expected d.p.c. height to investigate build details. Use your technical X-ray specs (knowledge) and using process of elimination to eventually come up with a permanent solution.
Specifically in the video, that plinth paint is definitely not helping, plus the wall paint; what type is it? There’s a lot more things you can do, but each building has it’s problems and solutions. It’s having the knowledge and experience to solve them.

[lg]

I have the same problem with my wall in the cupboard under the staircase where the smart meter and gas boiler is. It’s an end terrace house with render covering a solid brick wall that was built in 1935. I had a damp surveyor look at it and he said the moisture on your wall is caused by condensation and recommended shaving off an inch from the bottom of my wooden door using a hand plane. And then cutting out a hole in the door and screwing a metal vent to increase ventilation. The damp surveyor also recommended using a chisel and a mallet to take off an inch of plaster from the bottom of the wall, just above the wooden laminate flooring thats glued to a subfloor with air bricks outside. Chiseling off the plaster all the way along the bottom of the wall and leaving it for a while to dry the wall out before placing some skirting board over it and painting over it and re-plastering the wall above. I’ve done the door but I haven’t chiseled off the plaster at the bottom of my wall yet. I ventilate my home everyday now as well. And sometime ago Rentokil put dryrods in my outside wall but because the brick is hidden under my render I was concerned the dryrods wasn’t drilled into the mortar, in between the bricks but was drilled into my bricks. Also as well I recently noticed my block paving outside is just above my air bricks outside. I was considering installing an eco drain outside but I feel my block paving needs to be lowered 75-150mm below my airbricks and then re-plaster the black plinth either side of my airbricks which is below my render before sorting out my wall inside my house. My neighbor also suggested never use waterproof sealants on walls but lime mortar cement instead. So, for the moment I still have salts on my inside wall in the cupboard under my staircase that comes back when I use the hoover to remove the salts from my wall.