How To Laser Cut a Jigsaw Puzzle (2019)

In this Video, Russ shows us the techniques he uses to laser cut a jigsaw puzzle.

Welcome to the 50th in our series of videos that aim to teach you how to use a laser cutter. Please Subscribe, leave comments and let us know what topics you would like to see in future videos.

- Machine Set-up,
- Use of the RDWorks Software,
- Maintenance and Alignment
- Troubleshooting
- Building projects
- Laser Safety
- Laser theory
- Laser Cutting
- Laser Engraving
- Materials
- Hints and Tips

If you are new to the world of lasers and are thinking of dipping your toe in the water and purchasing your first laser machine, check out these videos to determine it's right for you and avoid the potential pitfalls awaiting you.

Even if you are a seasoned laser user, we're sure there will be something in this series that will catch your interest, particularly if you are a user of the RDWorks software.
No matter what brand of laser system you currently own, many of the topics to be covered will be of direct interest.

If you are currently in the market for a laser system, please get in touch and ask about our Lightblade range.

Lightblade 3040 - 40 watts (300 x 400mm working area)
Lightblade 3040 - 60 watts (300 x 400mm working area)
Lightblade 4060 - 40 watts (400 x 600mm working area)
Lightblade 4060 - 60 watts (400 x 600mm working area)
Lightblade 6090 - 60 watts (600 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 6090 - 80 watts (600 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 6090 - 100 watts (600 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1290 - 60 watts (1200 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1290 - 80 watts (1200 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1290 - 100 watts (1200 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1290 - 130 watts (1200 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1290 - 150 watts (1200 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1490 - 60 watts (1400 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1490 - 80 watts (1400 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1490 - 100 watts (1400 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1490 - 130 watts (1400 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1490 - 150 watts (1400 x 900mm working area)
Lightblade 1610 - 60 watts (1200 x 1000mm working area)
Lightblade 1610 - 80 watts (1600 x 1000mm working area)
Lightblade 1610 - 100 watts (1600 x 1000mm working area)
Lightblade 1610 - 130 watts (1600 x 1000mm working area)
Lightblade 1610 - 150 watts (1600 x 1000mm working area)

Optional pass-through port available

If you need something bigger, specials are available up to 1500 x 3000mm bed size.

EFR & Reci tubes used

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[RickEverett]

A very light electric sander should remove the brown marks on the back of the wood puzzle, Russ....Thank you for another, very enjoyable video!

[signchap]

Just use sign makers application tape on the back. Peels off very easily, and clean as a whistle.

[freddotu]

This was one of the more fascinating videos. Very enjoyable.

I've had quite good luck with paper transfer tape, the stuff used by vinyl cutter tradesmen to transfer vinyl designs from the backing paper from which it is cut to the destination surface. There are vinyl/plastic transfer tapes and paper transfer tapes. Obviously, the plastic stuff is to be avoided, but the high-tack paper, when properly burnished on the surface, does a great job of keeping the vapors clear. I've used it on both sides of silicone gasket, 3mm birch ply and acrylic as well.

[janabaker]

I’m super new to this laser engraving community, but this very helpful video was taken 4 YEARS AGO! For those who have an xTool, this guy probably gave that company the idea for the P2! Just sayin! Stole is probably more like it…Seems awfully suspicious! Hopefully you are on their team, Mr Thinklaser!❤

Thank you for the video Mr Thinklaser

[MacroLabD]

Thank you Russ, you have solved all of my problems!

[sharzanco]

Long time did not see new lessons missing you🤝

[garyblake]

Lower power and air assist worked first time for me with no burn marks at all and the sides are like a dark wood finish.

[DavZell]

Two other solutions are to back the wood with either masking tape or the transfer paper used to place vinyl for signs. The latter is just wide, sticky paper and comes in different levels of stickiness and comes in sheets or rolls. It is not expensive and is easier than applying several strips of masking tape.

[andreasseibert]

Hi! Im working on this problem too, have solved the marks on the back with a pin table. The front has to be 100% clean as well, for now i use masking tape. I have an epilog laser with air assist. Did somebody modify a similar lasercutter with special nozzles or so?

[marks]

You used 467MP. There is also 468MP, it is a thicker sheet and better suited for rough surfaces, like wood. I found out about it in the 3M website, they had a downloadable PDF about different adhesives and their uses.

[acdii]

I found a large piece of construction paper does a good job keeping it clean. The blowback lands on the paper instead of the wood. Since it almost covers the entire bed it also increases the draw for extraction.

[Killerdeano]

Is it possible to re upload the files. The link doesn't seem to be working. Thank You

[odczynnik]

What about to cut puzzle line few times with high speed and low laser power? To make plywood evaporate like coding the engraving instead of burning it? Like 500 mm/s 15% power, few times to get the bottom of the plywood. It might be more time consuming but I’m interesting what’s results you can get

[TheFlyingKiwiNZ]

Bed fume extraction. Cover up the rest of the bed with more sheets of plywood to increase the suction through the pieces being cut

[leechie]

Just fine sand it on an orbital sander. You get sanding on spruce jigsaws on the back on scroll saw.

[michaelworsfold]

On the jig you made it has the holes where the tabs of puzzle are but the laser hits the frame underneath. So trapping smoke. Could you not just drill the holes out on a pillar drill so no frame is left to a depth of say 6mm. Plenty of gap for the smoke to escape then.

[mikethefordprefect]

I've used "greyboard" as the base material. Cutting this gives minimum visibility of smoke on back of jigsaw. However it leaves much dust from the filler in the greyboard after cutting which needs brushing away. When using photos I have first laminated them using standard heat laminator (on photo side only - so 2 puzzles from one laminator pouch) This gives a robust surface to the photo, and can cut down fading due to UV. any smoke on surface can be easily removed. Minimal cutting power is essential to prevent darkening of cut lines and dot mode seems to give best results
When using plywood I have very lightly sanded the back to remove smoke damage.
To remove cut puzzle from cutting grid I use a thin flexible but stiff plastic sheet with the top edge bevelled to facilitate pushing under pieces (but still difficult)
As these have all been test pieces I have used PVA glue to bond photo and backing. It seems to work with minimal warpage from water base in the pva.
I have some Frisket Film low tack which I will try on the back to prevent smoke damage. This seems to have no harmful vapours from burning

[gothmaniow]

hi Russ ...have you tried a clear acrylic version of your first jig?? i think that would work almost perfect ;)

[keylajaimes]

Thanks a lot for this video! If I want to cut pieces of a puzzle in order to make people separate them from a wooden board, do I need to use less power?

[diljeetsingh]

Excuse me sir can you please tell me, how to cut 6mm thick Aluminum composite sheet with 100w CO2 laser cutting machine using ( RDWORKS V8) with a brief