Experimenting - Leather Laser Cutting Techniques - Mini How To Tutorial

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I share what I learnt from trying a whole host of different leather laser cutting techniques. Learn How to control the results of laser cutting leather through my many mistakes.

If you have any questions please leave them in the comments below and I'll do my best to get back to them as soon as I can.

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I am a custom commercial leather maker and I just came across or vid. I have been using a smaller NEJE for a year to fulfill an ongoing contract for leather coasters for a spirits manufacturer. I have carked out thousands to date. I 3D print a stamp for the grain side using a resin printer, using the clients original art work. I purchased the engraver for the flesh side which is already smoothed down and the NEJE does a brilliant job of adding Made in Arizona and notes about the product and artist.

I recently acquired an Atomstack but discovered the laser is shrouded on 3 sides with aluminum and a small glass window making impossible to get accurate alignment on completed leather goods. I have ordered a replacement which solves the issue. I intend to cut my standard items with the laser instead of the dies I use. The laser is more accurate and doesn't need sharpening! Another application is for Western Carving and Tooling. Instead of tracing onto damp leather with a stylus, I use the laser at a very low setting to give me a faint fine line for carving the pattern with a swivel knife. A big time saver, repeatable and time is money!

A tip would be to finish the item PRIOR to engraving, using an acrylic sealer like Resolene and any dyes and oils you with to use and THEN engrave. You will find that the engraving is more prominent and if it's well sealed, the soot marks will come off much easier. A final coat of resolene will seal the engraving and make it pop.

Trying to nail your accent..a trace of Southern Africa and a touch of Scotland?
Cheers,
Bob

bdmvy
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You can wet veg tan leather before etching. it will lay down nicely and stay perfectly flat and will dry just fine with no ill effects.

prototypeeight
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I've struggled with leather for quite some time and found your video at the perfect time. Thanks so much!

sincerelym
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If you want nicer edges you can use an edge beveler (size 1 or maybe 2 would be good for the thickness of leather you have, you can find some on tandy leather or on the internet) also to smooth them out you can use a wood burnisher. You use the edge beveler before the dye and you burnish after the dye. This will get rif of all the fluff that can come out the sides and leave you with super smooth anre professional edges :D it is a lot of elbow grease tho, but it can really make a difference in the quality! A varnish like resoline would help keep your pieces nice for a really long time.

Also for the dye you can use small makup sponges they works well for small pieces like those. you will have more control than a papertowel ^.^ plus invest in some gloves xD its a lot less messier haha

The eco-flow is water base so you can dilute it if you want to have a uniform coverage without having it too dark. If you don't put enough dye the leather won't be saturated and when it will dry it can be patchy ;)

ladouceurduneplume
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So just on your comment about leather going to the bin after getting wet...you ever seen a cow standing in the rain? The easiest way to laser engrave leather is to wet it just until it is pliable enough to lay flat on its own. If you do get a lot of smoke on it, take a baby wipe and give a good rub. You’re spot on though about not using anything but veg tanned leather. There’s so much you can do with leather and lasers so good to see you experiment.

dg
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Really hich quality video recording, and editing. God bless you for showing the way.

rusticagenerica
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Excellent work! The pressed leather one does look very classy. Keep making!

Reftravun
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Use food coloring as a stain. Also buy large marker pen blanks (Amazon) one for each color you use and the. You can the just color in between the lines. 👍

nobilismaximus
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Please let us know your laser machine configuration, what is the power of your CO2 machine ?

rajkumarsingh
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As a leather worker here, if you wet leather (which is something we do all the time when forming and stamping it) you must wet basically the whole piece, and let it dry flat, ive been known to dry it underneath a sheet of plywood of I want it flat.

CoyoteRoseCreations
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Concerning the loose fibers of the flesh side, the area of the hide from which the leather comes, and the quality of leather lays a huge role.
Cuts from the belly (sides of a hide) are normally spongy, and if the quality of the hide is very low, the fibers will be loose and terrible to work with. Cuts from the shoulder (aka single or double shoulder cuts) or spine area (aka 'bend') have very dense and tight fibers.
Hermann Oak and Wickett and Craig reputable tanneries for good vegetable tanned leather.

Jlayism
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Great ideas, i have some difficulties with what kind of rivets, and pressing tool

diytherapy
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Thanks for the information! I really like the design for the phone stand. I think I might try to make a bigger one for a tablet

laurieinjapan
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Gum Trag works better than beeswax for back slicking

marshalltjones
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Compressed air takes the smoke right off. Its actually super fine particulate matter and if you blast it with a shot of air it will blow right off.

oddproductions
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For $20 you can but some Tokonole and a glass “slicker.” Apply THIN layer of Tokonole and use the edge of the glass slicker to smooth the fibers. Much better than wax.

richness
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I put the paper mask on the leather Before like any delicate finishes i engrave with CO2.

ruftime
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You can find scales for the laser for what strength and speed and focus for what oz leather you are using

rayskinner
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Where did you get the leather from and what type of leather is it and what thickness thanks)

iandykes
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I just tried to laser engrave a leather wallet and the result is perfect, but after a few days using it, the black engrave came out and now looks bad. Any thoughts on this? Thanks

angelpiti