How To Choose The Right Cologne & How To Apply Men's Scents & Fragrance - Gentleman's Gazette

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Check out our in-depth cologne guide:

So how should you pick the right Cologne?

#cologne #menscologne #notsponsored

Understand the ingredients.
Most colognes consist of multiple different fragrances water and alcohol to create something that is harmonious and flattering. Traditionally, essential oils would be used to add the sense to the Cologne. Well-known essential oils include lavender rose bergamot and sandalwood for example. Personally, I'm also a big fan of lemongrass and unfortunately, most manufacturers will not list the essential oils on the ingredients list because they want to keep the secret recipe.

I suggest you understand the fragrance wheel, there are many different variations. Scents are categorized into floral oriental fresh and woody sometimes also in aromatic. Ultimately, this is just a graphic and if you haven't smelled any of this before, it won't be of any help, however, once you've found colognes that you like and you've analyzed what is in them, this can help you find related colognes that you might also like. Ultimately, you want to narrow down the selection of potential favorites for you by using the wheel. For a more detailed look at the fragrance wheel, please head over to our website here.

Before you buy cologne, it's essential to sample it in person.
Everyone's perception of smell is different, on top of that, it's essential that you smell a cologne for at least 30 minutes, ideally up to an hour individually, before you decide on buying it. So why do I have to wait 30 minutes to one hour if I can smell the Cologne right away, you might wonder? Well actually, it all comes down to understanding the fragrance pyramid.

Basically, a cologne consists of base notes, hurt notes, and top notes. The top note is the most volatile of the three, meaning it evaporates most quickly and it's what you can typically smell when you spray the Cologne onto your arm or onto a test or strip. Oftentimes, it's described as fresh or assertive or sharp and it's never on its own because you also have elements of the heart note and a base note that go into it's perception. That being said, I always suggest to test the Cologne on your skin and never just on a tester strip because your natural odor impacts the way you and others perceive that scent. The heart notes or the middle notes are about to appear strongly when the top note disappears which is generally about 20 minutes in. Typically, the notes are more round or mellowed compared to the top notes and it can last all the way up to an hour. bass notes on the other hand are the least volatile component and are often perceived as rich or heavier. It typically takes at least 30 minutes to release those base notes. In the beginning, they're overlaid by the heart notes and so that's why you want enough time with a cologne so you can truly experience what it smells like and how the sense develops over time. Even you might enjoy a scent right out of a bottle, you may actually not end up liking it at all 30 minutes in.

So how do you apply Cologne?

First of all, I think it depends on the strength of the Cologne so that it is stronger has to about differently than something that is very light. When in doubt, always use less.

In recent years, layering of colognes has become a trend.
I personally am more of a purist, I think it's best to go with that one scent because it already consists of many aromatic fragrances paired with your skin and what you eat it really is enough.

You can take into consideration the environment you're in, the season, as well as the type of your skin, so you find something that truly works for you and that's flattering. Stay tuned for the final video in this series about Cologne do's and don'ts.
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Gentleman's Gazette
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Just a couple of corrections:
- You don't need coffee beans. "Nose fatigue" is only achieved when you inhale a lot of alcohol. Alcohol makes the inside of the nose lose feel (if you drink too much, you also feel less pain, same reason), and thus you "lose" your ability to smell. Proof of this is that Perfumers smell different materials for the whole day and don't get this. Why? They avoid taking in alcohol.
- No matter what they tell you, most houses use similar ingredients, have similar cost structures. Creed is just the king of marketing. If you enjoy the story, buy the product, but as always, take everything with a grain of salt. A lot of the materials used nowadays are synthetic to avoid differences in batches, have a more clear cost and usually last longer. Some materials don't have natural options anymore, if your perfume uses Musk, unless you buy it from a shady company, it is synthetic for example.
- Please, please, don't rub the fragrance in any way. By doing that, you're creating friction, which in turn creates heat and makes the top notes dissipate faster, or even changes the fragance all together. Apply and let it sit.
- "Bolder" and "lighter" scents don't make sense. You have frags for the Winter, frags for the Summer, and the in betweens. They're easy to spot, there are scents that you would suffocate with when it's 30ºC outside, and scents that you wouldn't be able to notice after a couple of minutes during winter. There are, though, scents that combine notes from both "catalogues" and allow them to perform ok throughout the year, Bleu de Chanel, Dior Sauvage, etc.
- Oily and dry skin shouldn't have an impact on your decision. The problem associated with this is that dry skin absorbs the perfume, thus giving you a worse longevity. You can avoid this by applying unscented lotion before spraying the perfume. The more hidrated, the longer the scent will remain.

Hope this clears it up a bit.

hugocosta
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Ahh, now it all makes scents.
Once again another great video.

CrepitusRex
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“Do not rub it in. You kill the molecules” Al

skunkfromcamden
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One tip, if I may...avoid the temptation of buying cologne at duty free while traveling. First, if it is a new fragrance for you, you won't usually have time before your flight to really get a sense of it. But what's even worse is that in some airports around the world, they use genuine fragrances in the tester, and then sell you knock-offs in the packaged bottle. By the time you open the bottle and understand it doesn't smell the same, you're already on another continent.

Thorns
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Very informative, thanks for the quality content.

serioussoldier
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If you want to go old school, get genuine rose oil. It was a traditional scent for men in the Byzantine and later Ottoman Empire (women wore jasmine). You wear it in your beard, like an aromatherapy diffuser! It is very potent, and hard to wash the scent off. If you get it on your clothes, forget it. If you go to Istanbul, make sure to buy a small vial of genuine rose oil for yourself, and jasmine oil for your lady. Pricey, but worth it.

Thorns
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So happy to see you talking about fragrances Sven—it’s a natural extension of style and self expression. I keep a seasonal fragrance wardrobe to compliment my clothing wardrobe and have enjoyed pairing the two depending on context and intent.

Regarding fragrance recommendations, I’m totally with you on Royal Oud—it’s peppery, woody scent makes me feel confident and accomplished. Penhaligon’s Sartorial is also fantastic and coincidentally, was intended to evoke a tailor’s workshop on Saville Row. Both are ideal for gentlemen seeking to make an impression!

pmrp
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The Mont Blanc Individual was my first cologne that I purchased as a teenager. I still have the bottle with me after many years as I later learned that it was not the kind of fragrance for me. The bottle is still a good bedroom decoration and it actually smells quite acceptable even after so many years.

dipro
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I like all your videos rapahael. I've Learning too much about to dress properly in any enviorment. I'm huge fan from the caribbean the Dominican Repúblic. God Bless you. Such an incredible job.

euryarnaldo
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A beautiful video again Mr. Schneider.

manirajmanimuthu
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Years ago when moved off to University, smelled an acquaintance's cologne, tried in store, and purchased (Ralph Lauren Big Pony Orange 4). Now I know why sometimes after about an hour isn't so appealing: base notes aren't working with my natural oils, though still would wear. Thank you for explaining this! :D
BTW, on my own a couple years ago started using essential oils to help my moods (ex lavender if having an over stimulated morning), unknowingly wearing "cologne".

adrielrowley
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Great video as always! Really appreciate the quality of information and production. Please don't think you need to increase the frequency of uploads, I would much rather have a higher quality (or both of course).

cowboyhank
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Just a tip that I got from a perfume maker.... you should never rub cologne into your skin, as it crushes the perfume particles and it will make the smell disperse quicker. Let it dry itself and it will last longer!

John-wrng
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Wonderful video. I'll definitely use this information next time I'm shopping for new fragrances. Thank you sir.

LuisDiaz-lkpf
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Okay, so a simple hack for anyone with more than 2 fragrances. I have around 150-200 now collected over many years and most go months without use however, all get smelt.
1) Put on the clothes for the day or look at a photo of yourself previously looking/styled the way you will on the day.
2) Take out a few or as many bottles of fragrances that you want to test.
3) Smell the top of the bottle/atomiser and inside the bottle top simultaneously whilst looking at yourself in the mirror and imagining yourself in the location you will be.
4) spray on what YOU choose and enjoy.

This will change the game. These general rule videos are amazing and will help you not make serious mistakes. Nobody wants to smell Eros at a funeral right? However, if you know how you want to present yourself, this method will make it easy. Example: I am off to Mykonos for a family holiday right now. I have chosen Creed Vetiver for the day and Guerlain L'Homme Ideal for the night based on how I am likely to dress and the place I am going at the time of year. Now who's going to be able to recommend those for me, my age, dress style, location and the people around me. Only me. Do what suits YOU and make this your art. It's not a science.

pnandhra
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I respect your content. It is very informative and smart. You are just elegant!

alotaebiamjed
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I'm one of those real picky guys about colognes, where I'm put off by 90% of them. It has to be something discreet and usually earthy or woodsy. Just as long as it gives off "clean air". I have an issue where overpowering colognes will give me a sneezing fit; don't know why I react to it like that but I do.

benjaminharrisongray
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I like to buy .5ml samples. That way I can wear it a few times and see how I like it. There have been a couple that I really didn't care for in the store but when I put it on and wore it all day I loved it! In fact one of my favorite scents (Versace Eros) I didn't like at first and would have overlooked it had I not worn it.

cknorris
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I recommend that folks buy essential oils and make their own perfume/cologne. Most expensive perfumes are made of basic oils. With your own kit, you canmake a dozen perfumes that are made just for you.

marylamb
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Love the videos, great choice with royal oud, however guys never rub the fragrance into the skin as it bruises the scent molecules

julz_