LCR-T4 Mega328 Digital Transistor Tester || ESR Smart Component Meter || Case Assembly & Review

With this device, you'll be able to automatically to detect NPN and PNP transistors, n-channel and p-channel MOSFETs, diodes, thyristors, resistors, capacitors and many other components. It is also possible to measure certain characteristics of these devices as, for example, the current amplification factor of BJT or the gate threshold voltage of a MOSFET and much more.
Functions
Automatic detection of NPN and PNP transistors, n-channel and p-channel MOSFETs, diodes (including double diode), thyristors, resistor and capacitor and other components

Automatic testing of the pins of a component, and displaying on the LCD

Detection of the transistor, MOSFET protection diode amplification coefficient and the base to
determine the emitter transistor forward biased voltage

Measurement of the gate threshold voltage and the gate capacitance of the MOSFET

Simultaneous measurement of the of two resistors while displaying resistor symbol

Measurement of a single diode reverse capacitance

Measurements of capacitance, resolution 1 pF

Identification of Darlington transistors via the base-emitter threshold voltage and current amplification factor

Measurement of the bipolar transistor current amplification factor and the base-emitter threshold voltage

16 Character x 2 Line LCD-Display (12864 LCD with green backlight)

Test ranges:
Resistance: Max 50 MΩ, resolution 0.1 Ω
Capacitance: 25 pF - 100000 µF
Inductance: 0.01 mH - 20 H
Specifications
One-button operation
Automatic shutdown for improved battery life
Shutdown current less than 20 nA

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[jamesmdeluca]

Greetings:
I used warm water to soften the glue holding the labels to the clear plastic. Patience, it takes a while.
I suggest that the battery case be mounted before mounting the tester circuit board.
I strongly recommended that you buy the combination of the tester that comes with the "black battery case" instead of just the battery clip. The "black battery case" has matching openings in the bottom clear plastic for its corner angles. They are a loose fit. The "black battery case" also has 3 additional protrusions with matching holes in the clear bottom of the enclosure.
Those 3 protrusions require the "black battery case" be mounted with contacts at the left side. The only correct orientation of the "bottom clear plastic". It has an opening under the left end of the "black battery case" where the wires are attached to it.
This opening is provided to avoid those wires from being crushed when the "black battery case" is mounted tightly to the "bottom clear plastic".
I suggest that the black battery case be super-glued at its 4 corners. I temporarily used 3 small screws (not provided) from the clear bottom up through the small holes that exist in the 3 small round protrusions. These will hold the "black battery case" securely while superglue (not provided) is applied to the corner angles.
When the superglue has dried, you can remove the temporary screws. I chose to also add superglue to the protrusions as force is required to change the battery when needed. In order to permit the battery change, the top clear plastic will not be permanently glued in place, but the rest of the clear plastic parts will be glued (not provided).
Next step is to mount the tester board to the bottom of the clear plastic case. Use the four shorter bolts, the four white plastic standoffs and four of the matching nuts. The screws go up through the bottom plastic, through a standoff, through the tester pc board and are secured with the nut. Yes, some loose fitting of the screws will be required until all four screws are attached. Note: the holes on my clear bottom plastic were not drilled accurately, as the tightening process will reveal.
Next, I chose to mount the clear left side that has the notch to allow the lever of the zero-insertion-force socket to be closed fully. I chose to temporarily mount the top cover to help position that side panel while the glue is applied only to the bottom fittings of the left side panel.
Next I glued the short upper and lower side panels. They each require one end to be inserted into the left side panel before being glued. Apply glue to two points in the "bottom clear plastic" and the left side panel. Those panels have matching attachment points so orientation is not a problem.
Lastly, I mount the right side panel. It has a cutout whose purpose I cannot discern as neither position aligns with any accessible point. I chose to mount that hole oriented adjacent to the pc board. The previously mounted short sides have an joint where they are fitted into the right side panel. Glue two bottom points and the two short panel points.
Now, the top panel is attached only by the screw hardware. Note: the clear plastic fits tightly to the SIDES of the "zero-insertion-force" socket.
Add a good 9-volt battery and enjoy testing.
Note: the top and bottom rows of the ZIF socket are wired the same. 1231111
Two 2-pin components may be checked at the same time, if one uses pins 1&2, while the other uses 3&1.
Note: the battery voltage is displayed at the beginning of each test.
I have yet to try using the provided contacts for surface mount components. I might try using the eraser end of a pencil with double-sided tape to apply a component with some pressure during a test. I see that process as very poor. I would create or buy a 14-pin chip carrier with three test leads to attach external components in some way.

[victorb]

It's ok but let me know it gives correct