Solenoid Testing, Function and Replacement

"The information presented in this program is based on a specific diagnostic case and might not directly apply to the vehicle you are repairing. We do not represent or warrant that the information presented is complete or error free. Please take all safety precautions. We disclaim any and all liability for losses, injuries or damages in connection with your repair."

[charlesonyango]

"....needs to be not That was a joy to hear. Thanks for the video. Still useful after all these years!

[royalfinest]

As a DIY newbie, I think this video is highly educational and very well done. I like it when you included all the elements required - the video, the real sound, 3D animations and the real work being done. You delivered a lot under just 7 minutes. Thank you and congratulations.

[DavisOffGrid]

I'm not a newbie, but still ended up watching your entire video because it was so well put together. Great job!

[franksgutters]

Mark you are the first ever man to read our post and give us and idea of our problems.
Thank you very much for sharing you knowledge.

[RicardoRodriguez-brkg]

Never changed anything on my car and today I grew the balls with your on point video! Thank you lad 🤝

[franksgutters]

I mean from youtube channel. You are allways giving us a solution to our problems.

[GoTechTraining]

Thank you for the kind words ... very happy we could help you.

My Best,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

You may have what is called a parasitic draw. To check remove one battery cable and connect an amp meter between the cable and post on the battery. Let is sit for about a half hour and read the meter. If it reads more than 50 mamps, you have a draw. Leave the meter hook up and start removing fuses. When you find the right circuit the meter will drop. Then reconnect the fuse and start unplugging what ever is in that circuit.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

Thank you for the kind words. Happy we could help.

Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[ljwhitmire]

Great video. I replaced the starter solenoid in my 1998 F-150. Turns out not to be a problem, but was a problem because it exploded into a thousand pieces when I tried to remove the first nut. Now, it seems like there is a break in the "S" terminal wire. I can't seem to find out how to replace that wire to fix it. Some days it starts, some days it won't. Very frustrating.

[MadSmokerBBQ]

Best video yet on diagnosing starter troubles!

[GoTechTraining]

4. If the LED does not illuminate, check the power and ground circuits of the remaining 8-terminal pigtail connector before condemning the shift module.

5. If the module passes self test, check the resistance between the White/Yellow (WT/YL) wire of the 8-terminal flat connector, and the next 4 wires down the connector row, one-at-a-time for indications of open and closed readings that will identify the position of the shift motor.

[GoTechTraining]

Wow thank you for the kind words. We do put thought into these and try to answer the questions before they are asked.
Thank you again, your comment means a lot to us!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

Monitor check engine light operation. If it comes on the PCM powers and grnds are OK. if not go there first. if it comes on crank the engine, as soon as the engine starts to turn, the check engine light MUST go out. if not go to the crank sensor and check for about .7v AC output at normal crank speed.
The crankshaft position sensor has a very high failure rate on your vehicle.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

6. If the switches are showing a valid position combination, attempt to move the shift motor with power and ground applied to the Yellow (YL) and Orange (OR) wires of the shift motor to make it move completely to the 4L or 2H positions, and then recheck the indicated position of the position switches on the flat 8-terminal connection.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

It is recommended to replace the solenoid with the starter because, if the solenoid has some time on it, it more likely to stick in the "on" position and keep the starter engaged while the engine is running. This would in turn ruin the new starter.
Thank you for the kind words, they me a lot to us,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[johng]

LA-pro, good and professional video, clear, pin point accuracy throughout! Again great video guys

[GoTechTraining]

I am humbled ... all I can say is Thank You!

Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[GoTechTraining]

Disconnect the "S" terminal and connect a test light to it .. like we did in the video. Try to crank the engine and the light should come on bright. If it doesn't it means either you have a problem with the wire to the "S" terminal, neutral safety switch or ignition switch issue.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics

[phisherben]

Thank you for the informative video! I learned quite a bit, since I am incredibly uneducated when it comes to automotive electronics.