Starter Motor Solenoid Diagnostics Explained | Pull-in & Hold-in coils | Test Starter Solenoid

In this video I explain how I test the starter solenoid, I explain the Pull-in and Hold-in coils, I explain the wiring diagram, I show how I test those two coils using a multimeter and how to test their operations using a battery.

You may also watch the following video:
Starting System Wiring Diagram Explained | Everything about Starting System:

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Disclaimer:
Any information contained in this video is just the understanding of “Automotive Diagnosis: Cars Repair & Training Guides” and it is not an official guide or reference, so everything provided in this video is just a share of our experience and understanding and they are provided as a courtesy for your reference only. So, if you are using any part of this video, use the information at your own risk. We highly advise you to check the manufacturer owner’s manual before performing any act of removal, diagnosis, inspection, or repair on your car to know about what you are authorized to do on your car, what the correct and legal procedure is and what risks might be involved, also viewers are strongly advised to consult a licensed person before any sort of inspection or repair. Due to the factors beyond the control of “Automotive Diagnosis: Cars Repair & Training Guides”, we cannot guarantee against improper use of information or tools or systems, or the procedure provided. “Automotive Diagnosis: Cars Repair & Training Guides” disclaims any damage, injury or loss caused by your decision to follow the steps provided in this video.

[AutomotiveDiagnosis]

Please watch the Following video for Starting System Wiring Diagram Analysis:

[d-s-ll]

One of the best explanation on auto engine starter, very good video, but not many people know the value of this video.

[guya]

Thanks. Massive help. Figured out my new solenoid had the main terminals reversed with your guide to resistance.

[bernardocisneros]

Great video once again. Thank you! Instead of using a jumper wire from battery negative to M terminal, why didn't you just connect the cable coming from the motor to the M terminal. This way you don't need the jumper wire and pull-in coil gets its ground from body of motor. Then to disengage pull-in coil, you disconnect the cable coming from the starter from M terminal.

[abderrahimmark]

You explain everything with extreme details. Thank you.
Could you please make some video about diesels?

[peterballentine]

This is an excellent excellent and very clear explanation

[johnsomerset]

Excellent. Most other videos about starter solenoids here, don't go into the detail about the second coil.

[MechanicForGMCCars]

Good video.But I dare to add some starter selenoid have external R pin terminal suposedly it was used to bypass voltage to points ignition with an diode or alternator field or some other device, suposedly if you use the R terminal the pinion gear stay on the flywheel or odd polarity swap acures who isnt good for baterry or alternator, another thing I want to add +12-12= 0v so that extra wire is actuali an compensation wire for that porpuse Im not shure about polarity just trust my about that it has to do with induction and colideing poles any way they are rated at around 24v so if you like 1 input to 1 out put dc converter cirquet part, lot other devices depent on the + voltage and the negative voltage. For exampel delco 10-12si series alternators use reference voltage baterry negative to determine when to charge when tge cutt in fueld current will take place at what rpm range so it used higher negative some fractional lowr voltage positive from field or dash who are around 9-10v and it becomes partiali ac and some voltage is devided true diode trio then you get back flat line dc positive and negative true the bridge rectifier in %\% ratio difference + and - of corse the volts /apms ratio also is effected thats why those 2 wires are important not only for activating the starter motor but for all other devices in the car what depends on voltage potentials . Just add 1 ceramic capacitor or resistor or some wiard electrolitic capacitor instantli the cutt in current to the alternator field will change instantli even the starter motir will behave differentli as well the baterry volts/amps ratio will change . So hoppe this makes sence .Expeciali magnet type starter motirs are complexs they have lot in common with old compound dc motors and metadyne transforners so they are variabel devices with variabel out puts.Do not hit magnet starter, do not heat ferrite magnets, do not misplace pole peaces the end result will by same like with those old pulley driven dc generators they might change out put to the main brushes insted positive and negative it might by this - + or + + or - -, as an out put voltage polarity .Just my way pointing out some things here.Nothing ells .Weak spots are also metalic springs, worn brushes, commitator shorts and the actual brush holder and rear cover might suffer arcing welding the metal becomes blue so less metal compared to carbon so it will not conduct to ground .So you see guys magnet starter motors are lot interesting.Any way just wanted peopel to know if they get in trobbel so they know where to look for.

[allandungani]

I am getting ground signal on the S terminal. What could be the problem.

[richardprice]

I replaced my solenoid and and relay and used aux. start switch for power to small terminal and still have intermittent start. It appears the pull-in coil is not getting sufficient ground. If the motor supplies the ground for the pull-in coil through the brushes does that show my starter motor is the problem?

[adab]

Thank you for your video
But I have a question please, how does you measure the resistance of pull in and hold in coils and get the right value if they are connected with parallel, you have to seperate them to get the right value for each of them because the two coil have the same start point and end point in reset status ???
Thank you again

[djentlover]

I get 4000 ohms from starter solenoid to ground. What could be the cause of this?