Dry Pour 30 day cure Test

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In this video I will explore this new technique called dry pour concrete and perform several tests on my first dry pour slab which has cured for 30 days. I want to find out for myself if it's good or bad. I will reference a YouTube channel called Cajun Country Livin' and use their technique as a good starting point. I hope we learn something together in this one so let's enjoy it together!

*******Chasing After Justice*******
by: Monty McKinnon

******* MICHAEL BUILDS PATREON *******

******* MICHAEL BUILDS MERCH *******

PRODUCTS AND TOOLS I USED:
-80lbs Quikrete
-Quikrete All Purpose Gravel
-Milwakee 18v Drill

FILMING EQUIPMENT I USE:
Canon EOS R Mirrorless Camera
Macro Lense Tamron 70-300mm
Rode mic
Camera iPhone 8
iPhone Lens kit
Editing software: Adobe Premiere Pro CC
Gimbal DJI Mobile 2

Instagram: @michaelbuilds313

Michael Builds
47526 Clipper St.
Suite 700391
Plymouth Mi. 48170
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ATTENTION VIEWERS! Someone is impersonating me in the comments on this video. MY replies will have my name highlighted in gray with a checkmark next to it! Thanks for watching!

MichaelBuilds
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It looked like the slab cracked while driving on it, only because the ground under the slab became soft and gave. You can see the ground flexing when you drive over it. one of the shots the slab lifted and can see its solid but the ground was giving.

larrytyler
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I'm glad to see someone actually approaching this from a somewhat scientific approach instead of pushing an agenda by intentionally doing it in such a way that would guarantee failure.

greenwolf
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I found your previos video randomly (or rather the YT algorithm offered it to me not so randomly). As a structural engineer my first thought was 'no way in heck that works'. But that was just because it's so different from what we were taught about making structures from concrete. Structures that are consistently and predictably strong enough, that is. After watching two of your vids about dry pouring and giving it some thought I can absolutely see why it has the potential to be even better for some applications than a traditional mixed and poured structure.

One of the biggest problems in making really strong concrete is the water content of the mixture. Usually you have way more water than the cement needs to cure because you absolutely NEED that much to achieve a consistency you can work with, even with the best additives. But then when the excess water evaporates there WILL be pores in the concrete. This porosity determines its strength as much as the quality of the cement you use.

The dry pour method you showed can be used to make a slab or whatever structure where the soaked outer layer is more like a traditional concrete but the inner core gets only the amount water required for the cement to cure, or just very little excess. So at least in theory it can be made even stronger. The one huge caveat is you have very little control over exactly how much water gets to the inside. If you want optimal results you need to have your method laid out and executed with extreme precision. So in conclusion: multi-storey building - nope; sidewalk, driveway, shed foundation - doable or even preferred, especially if there is no risk of freezing (mild and hot climates or absolutely no chance of water touching your concrete).

For now I found no solid info on this but the idea might not be that new. It just never caught on in the industry as a whole because making a mixture you can control has the advantage of being predictable and repeatable which is a crucial aspect of designing and building structures.

Fonok
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Based on this video, I dry poured a 4'x8'x6" slab using sakrete rapid set concrete and it turned out AMAZING! I used a gravel base, put rebar down as well, and used rapid set mortar mix for a smooth screed. I misted/soaked it for 5 days before removing the forms. It was my very first concrete project, and turned out incredibly well and strong. It serves as the base for a 2280 lb concrete staircase and is supporting the load just fine. Thank you for this post!! You helped me save a ton of money!!

romeothehavanese
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I guess a fair comparison would be with a wet pour and dry pour and do the same test under the same conditions. Dry looks pretty good though.

-theflea-
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I bought a form to make concrete stone look walk, and could never get started cause mixing concrete is not my favorite pastime. I can see this will work like a charm for my use, and if I do one a day in couple weeks I can finish it with minimal effort. Thanks!

glcol
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Looks like it is golden to me, also keep in mind a weigh bearing pad is typically a 6" pour with rebar reinforcement. So the fact that the pour lasted that long with a soft substrate and a thin, non-inforrced pour, is very impressive.

mattdurmeier
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You are teaching me so much!! As a senior woman, and trying to do stuff myself, you encourage me to just do it!!! Thank you!!! 🥰

susanmcconnell
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Sunday breakfast and a Michele Builds great way to start Mothers day!

scottroberts
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Your concrete pad seemed to hold up under the compression load which was pretty light 30-50psi. What broke the pad IMO was the tensile load caused by a soft sub-grade.

brucew.mcosker
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If the slab were larger, had a more compact sub base and didn’t rock back and forth while you drove over it, I don’t think it would have failed. Great video, I’ve been thinking about using this method to poor a patio extension for an out door kitchen. You’ve convinced me to try it.

jdbigsur
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Wet pour of that same sized slab would have failed the truck test also. Having the edges of the slab fully exposed is what makes the pressure too great. Had Michael just filled in dirt around the slab it would not have failed. I have a concrete mixer I might be listing for sale after watching these.

Kulow
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I feel that if the pad was level with the ground around it, the pad would have held up much longer. I have an area where I drive off my driveway, which was doing fine until the soil washed away. My driveway is now cracked where I pull on and off and this was a traditional poor. Thanks for the video.

ronlambert
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Lol, I'm still not sure about dry pour, but I'm going to do it as an edging border under my new fence. Hopefully will save time weed eating and keep the metal panel fence secure. Much easier than my 60 year old body mixing concrete! Great video, and does give people options. Thanks Michael

stevealldred
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Love your enthusiasm. Amazing - you can see it deflecting. One good thing about dry pour is that it's impossible to get the concrete too wet. A very common mistake is adding too much water. That weakens it.

briankowald
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Nice to see people testing this dry pour slab method. In 2005 i built a 20x16 pole shed/barn. I dumped dry quickcrete and troweled it out very similar to this. 18 years of parking a 5000lb tractor in and multiple different atvs, no problems. I’m not sure mixing the bag concrete beforehand makes much difference other than huge amounts of time and work. I used remesh though. Pour it a couple inches deep, smooth it out put the remesh down and then put the other half on. Easy.

mikef
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I’m thrilled with this outcome! Thank you, thank you thank you, Michael, for your efforts to do such a thorough test. And you still have more coming. 😃 I can’t say enough about how helpful this is. You rock.

RoxyAnny..b
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One of the best things about the dry pour… is seeing people who are against it, absolutely lose their marbles over it in the comments lol.

HeliRy
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Caught this video at the right time. Deciding whether to have concrete floor or raised wood floor joists for a 10’x16’ shed. Probably cheaper to use concrete. Also your a great show host. You seem to have the personality and attitude for being in front of the camera. Also a stand up, speak up, sit down presentation. Looking forward to more videos.

paulchizek