Is Electrolysis Better Than Acid For Removing Rust? Let's find out!

So many viewers would like to see the acid VS Electrolysis instead of the entire restoration, so I decided to make a short video with just that.

I hope you enjoy the video.

If you have any suggestions for improvement, or compliments share them below!

Please leave a like if you did like the video, please subscribe and feel free to comment your thoughts and as always thank you for watching.

Thanks to all the channel members.
Michael Joyce (Latest member, Thank you, Micheal)
Ray Wood
Michael Kelleher
Karin Wallace
Random Projects Tube
WILD35 KSM

More info.
WHAT IS ELECTROLYSIS?
Electrolysis removes rust from metallic objects. During electrolysis, an electrical current will flow through a liquid, such as a molten ionic compound or aqueous solution. Atoms are rearranged, causing irreversible changes in chemical composition.

Adding conductors, often in the form of copper wire (which has a higher melting point), to the liquid and connecting the conductors to a power supply creates an electrical current.

Electrons in a metallic structure flow towards the positive terminal of the power supply. This causes one of the electrodes (conductors) to become positively charged and the other to become negatively charged. The positive ions (cations) in the liquid attract to the negative electrode and the negative ions (anions) are attracted to the positive electrode. At this stage electron exchange occurs, creating a chemical reaction.

THE PROCESS OF REMOVING RUST USING ELECTROLYSIS
Please take great care if you attempt to remove rust from an object via electrolysis.

To remove rust by electrolysis you will require:

A large plastic tub or container
Battery charger
Your rusty object
A piece of steel
Water
Sodium carbonate substance.

ACID FOR REMOVING RUST.
How Do Strong Acids Work for Industrial Rust Removal?

Strong acids and strong alkalis can remove rust quickly, however, these caustic chemicals pose many health and safety risks and require that the user observe strict safety precautions. Strong acids will dissolve rust, but they will also dissolve paint, finishes, and sometimes even the metal itself. Hydrochloric acid (which is also called muriatic acid in its diluted form), as well as phosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, may be used in rust removal formulas using strong acids. These are mineral acids, and they are highly corrosive, especially in concentrated forms. Strong alkalis work in a similar way, but on the opposite end of the pH spectrum.

Strong acids work by dissolving rust. Many acid-based rust removal products are gel formulations. Once applied, if the gel remains on the metal too long, it will start to dissolve it, causing pitting. While mineral acids clean away the outer layer of rust, they also put the underlying metal in a reactive state, making it susceptible to “flash rusting” unless it is otherwise sealed or neutralized.

Are Strong Acids Safe for Removing Rust?
Even when mineral acids are diluted in water or other substances, they are dangerous to work with and can severely damage skin, irritate the lungs, and cause other health problems without proper safety precautions. These chemicals are corrosive and toxic, so they must be disposed of safely, especially in large amounts.

Industrial rust removal products containing strong acids may be ideal for serious rust problems that must be resolved quickly. However, these products must be carefully monitored and safety precautions carefully followed. Proper ventilation, safety goggles, gloves, and careful application are essential to keeping users protected.

How Do Weak Acids Work for Industrial Rust Removal?
Despite their name, a weak acid does not mean a weak reaction. Since weak acids occur naturally in the environment, they are far less toxic than the mineral acids listed above. There are a variety of weak acids that will react with rust and remove it, and each one works a bit differently. Tannic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, and Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), can all be used as an industrial rust remover. These acids naturally occur in nuts, vegetables, and fruits, or are used as an additive in medicines and foods.

Weak acids utilize a process similar to strong acids, except their reaction is more gradual and less volatile. Though weak acids can still be harmful in concentrated forms, they are nowhere near as dangerous as mineral acids. Industrial rust removers using weak acids are typically found in bath or gel formulations.

Are Weak Acids Safe for Removing Rust?
Weak acids—like oxalic acid—can be hazardous in a highly concentrated form, but they are naturally occurring and carbon-based, so they are less toxic and less corrosive than mineral acids. Even so, caution is required when working with weak acids as they still present safety issues both for humans and the environment. Since the chemical process differs from mineral acids, oxalic acid, and other weak acids lower the risk of metal flash rusting, however, it is still a risk.

[kanishka.b]

Followed numerous guides and projects done using electrolysis.

Acid is acid. They dissolve the rust and expose the bare metal and there can be some noticeble material lose if the rusting is severe.

Electrolysis process works more by converting the oxides back in to iron partially. Low voltage low current will facilitate this convertion more. So electrolysis is prefered in restorative work if the damage is severe and material lose should be minimized.

Hope this helped. If anyone need more info, do some digging. You will find a lot on the subject. Cheers.

[timothym]

The electrolysis process will clean as well as the acid, but it takes much more time, and relies on the proximity of the positive electrodes to the surface to be cleaned. Unlike acid, it is gentle on thin materials, and won’t remove engravings or other delicate details.

[blackraven]

Even CLEANING vinegar works great although slowly and less dangerous than other acids. With the added advantage of letting you check and control the process being much cleaner.

[aGuyWithConscience]

In electrolysis, how much rust is removed depends on 2 factors - current and time. In acid, type of acid, concentration and time. One can control the amount of curren and time by electrolysis to get the same result as by acid.

[lpconserv]

Yes, the acid is the preferred method according to the major power and refinery boiler operations people. I have been in the business of cleaning the iron / steel boiler insides for about 25 years, and it is the standard method. The more typical acid used is Citric Acid, or in nature, Lemon juice. The lemon juice is typically around 5% and the normal cleaning solutions are around 3.5% based a lot on costs involved when dealing with boiler volumes that can approach 100, 000 gallons. As a reference, the process is called Citrisolv and is done on almost all boilers as a routine on a periodic basis. There are other methods, but they involve more difficult acids to work with.

The amount of iron is controlled well if the citric method is used as it has an iron limit on how much it can hold. So it is pretty safe. And can be neutralized with great effect in small operations as you use with regular household ammonia. That process will leave you with a nice gun metal black/blue steel or iron that has the iron converted to a non-rusting type, similar to the look you get when you carbon season your parts. And you can still carbon season just as with your blasting methods without worry. Nothing but lemonade and a household cleaner would be needed.

Great video techniques on your channel. I do enjoy the way you lay out all the parts to see what the items look like in exploded parts array. Very helpful to let us follow your methods. Keep up the great work.

[abushams]

Little detail that may have influenced your experiment .. this was an old skillet, skillets have old fat on their surface, and in the 'pores' of the metal , fat is non conductive, AND : Fat dissolves in acid, so the 'rust remover 'is also removing the fat that is a handicap for its opponent .. I would call this skillet an unlevel playing field that advantages the acid

[davidhorsley]

The only problem with your choice of acid is that muriatic acid, which is the industrial name for impure hydrochloric acid, will continue to degrade iron and steel unless it is absolutely totally neutralized. Which generally involves an extended soak in a strong base. Hydrochloric acid is sometimes referred to as "fuming hydrochloric acid" and even the fumes can cause iron or steel to disintegrate by oxidizing the metal to dust.

[happenstancially]

Just for reference, from within the food industry, the only FDA approved way to remove rust in any form is a mild muriatic acid.

[k.k.a]

If we did cool stuff like this in school, I would actually remember what electrolysis is.

[ianboard]

My favorite is still white vinegar - dirt cheap, gentle, effective, won't ruin things if you forget about them for a day or two. Degrease thoroughly with something like acetone beforehand though.

[RitzSamaritano]

Good comparison, thanks for the video.

I have a few observations.
During the 3 hours with acid the pan section you treated with electrolysis started to rust again because it was wet iron left in open air, it should be better to spray it with some oil to prevent this rusting.

The acid treatment is much more aggressive (specially with hydrochloric acid compared to some weaker one such citric acid) that's why you had a smoother surface.

This is ok for a bulky iron pan, but for thinner parts I prefer electrolysis to prevent damage to the part.

[Winkleo.x]

I like to do both. Using electrolysis with sodium carbonate as the electrolyte converts rust into black iron(iii) oxide. Sometimes electrolysis will miss some nooks and crannies that aren't in line-of-sight with the anode. I follow up with a quick bath in phosphoric acid that converts any remaining rust and flash-rust into iron phosphate. The iron phosphate coating is extraordinarily paintable, especially when used with an etch primer.
Great video. It really demonstrates the chemical reactions that happen with both methods.

[riccardofabbri]

The good thing about electrolysis is that you reduce the iron in irox oxide/hydroxide back to the metal form, virtually whitout too much loss. When treating rusted iron with acid on the other hand only strips out the oxide/hydroxide just by making it water soluble and eventually exposing more fresh metal to corrosion. If performed with the correct voltage and a suitable electrolite as long the correct anode rod, electrolysis could be a good method.

[PapiDoesIt]

I used a pickle barrel and angle iron to remove rust from engine blocks and cylinder heads with electrolysis. Took a few days but it worked well.

[robertdieder]

Electrolysis needs a bit more time but the nice thing is that there are no ill effects if there are mixed metals. The safest method i've found is using and submerging in molasses to remove and stabilize rust. However it is very time intensive.

[swoops]

As someone in maintenance in a galvanizing factory this could be effective but constantly having to filter this out would be a lot of work. Yes we have to use ferrokill to clean/filter the acid/schlum tanks but that needs to be cleaned every few days but after seeing the water here it looks like we would need to clean it out every few hours.

[Proton_N]

I work in a factory that galvanizes wire. We use electrolysis in a heated 10% solution of sulfuric acid. We use 3-4V and around 200A.
It deals with rust in a matter seconds. It's pretty nasty though.

[DukeCity.S.V]

I use lard, heat & elbow grease... works really well.

[cobrasvt]

The active function of acid will always be the winner in this comparison. Although electrolysis alt a super low current will be better for delicate items although over a much longer span of time.

[shaincastillo]

All hail the YouTube algorithm!!! 20 minutes into watching YouTube and pow, Electrolysis vs Acid test! No idea how I got here, but now I know acid is the way to go for solid rust removal from a cast iron pot or skillet.