Small Block Chevy Engine Build: Cylinder Heads

Come inside the Parts Pro garage as we take you through the installation of some of today's hottest performance products. In this episode, we install the cylinder heads. Look out for new episodes in this series that will take you through the planning and prep to the actual firing up of this street classic.

Parts used in video:

Edelbrock Aluminum Cylinder Heads (Part# 60895)

Edelbrock Head Gasket Set (Part# 7361)

ARP Head Bolts (Part# 134-3601)

Mr Gasket Oil Pan Gasket (Part# 6560) .

While this is not a paid review, this content has been produced by The AAM Group in support of manufacturers with whom it has a business relationship.

[gregg]

You actually wait until your short block is assembled before you chase the bolt holes on the block? Thats nuts. i would be damned sure to do all of that before i assembled the bottom end and then clean EVERYTHING.

[LeFraudHasChokedInSIXFinals]

Amazingly knowledgeable engine builders in these comments, who criticize everyone else, but none of whom have their own videos. If they're such experts, I wonder why they're even watching these basic how-to videos?

[MrGGPRI]

Chasing the block threads CAREFULLY is critical; a shop did mine during a complete block service, apparently with a power hand drill and some were so loose and torn-up that I had to install inserts and finally used a complete set of ARP studs.
Not to mention that the same shop also destroyed both of my rare 327 461X heads while TRYING to install hardened seats.
( Darrell Buell Automotive Eng )

[kennethalbert]

Here's a tip !
Don't chase threads with a tap. They make "thread chasers" for that, relatively cheap too.

[jjmccloud]

Agree with the taps for the head bolts, I know some say no and to use chasers but them chasers won't remove all the corrosion and rust. Chasers are great for most threads but for these especially if using new arp bolts using the taps are the best option as long as u know your cutting some and will mess it up if ur not careful and pay attention. If there's to much tention then double check to see what's going on before just continuing to crank that tap in there

[rossdean]

Use a thread chaser, not a tap. Taps can remove material. Also, what tap size is it, a ground high or ground low? Most taps are ground high 3.

[ratcamaro]

I use Toyota FIPG sealant on the threads of the head bolts/studs. Never had any coolant leaks.

[griffon]

When prepping the head bolts you commented you were using thread locker on the threads and arp paste on the washers. This is incorrect the white thread locker you are using isn't thread locker it is a sealant paste because the head bolts install into the water jacket of the block, Im sure you are aware of this but someone watching the video and not really knowing what you are doing would use loc tite blue or red on their head bolts and run into all kinds of major problems like pulling the threads out of the block when trying to remove those bolts down the road and possible coolant leaks because thread locker isn't a sealant for coolant

[robertcowan]

YEP, ALL BLOCK PREP SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE BEFORE FINAL ROOKIE

[danielbeiersr]

So you waited to chase the head bolt holes threads after you've built the bottom end and you just cleaned the gasket/head sealing surface, wow

[Laqota]

I'm about to save your time yall.

The Rocker Arms, Rocker Bolts, and push rods, ANY BOLT OR OBJECT doesn't need to be installed in the exact same place as long as their equally the same. You can if you want but this is usually only done in mechanic shops where they're there to fix a head gasket for example and their required to replace everything back in the same condition as it was received, but with the repair done.

For someone working on their own car it's not required at all. It's mostly just a "return the wear to what it was previously" but I've always said that the car ran the same amount of time, everything is worn equally.

[maniacal-s]

Hey parts pro.
I agree you should clean the bolt holes before you assemble the short block/bottom end! Alumium heads are a lot lighter than cast iron still becarful! Maniacal s10.

[Supanova]

I am putting on a set of Dart iron heads. Without using the gasket should the head sit flat on the deck? mine does not...

[flinch]

Home gamers try this if you forget to chase threads before assembling your short block: use that engine stand [for what it's made for], and turn the side you are working on to face down. Better off with a crick in your neck than metal shavings hiding in you piston bores. Flush holes after thread chasing with a little brake cleaner before righting - use the straw and wrap a shop towel around the opening so you don't get a face full, using short blasts to catch debris. And don't follow his advice of plain "cotton" for final wipedown before putting in gaskets- it's not lint free and if threads come out undetected, the softest/tightest part of your engine is... your bearings, so if there will be a problem from that 99% chance it happens there.
If by chance you bought a stand that does not allow block rotation... give up on engine building, as you are not mechanically minded, and the $40 bucks you saved will perhaps cost you a thousand down the road. By the way, there is no such thing as a "bolt on" head - assembled heads should always need a little t.l.c. before putting on. Two things must happen at a minimum: pull valves to check valve seat runout, and verify the intake port is a hair larger than your intake manifold side with everything lined up. Having a wall steals hp from what is otherwise a good investment [and is not friendly for carburated engines]. I have yet to see an intake manifold/head combination that didn't need just a little massaging with a die grinder, so just bet on having to fit those two as part of the build. I like the manifold side between 0.005" and 0.010" smaller than the opening on the heads to give room for settling or minor gasket shift when assembling. For valves, seat runout of less than 0.001" is bang on, and anything over 0.002" is cause to go to a machine shop to get valve seats re-cut if you want maximum life out of the heads before next service. Most machine work will be in the liveable middle, and will do just fine. Runout of over 0.004" is an abomination that will cause poor compression, premature guide wear, and allow reversion problems/odd manifold vacuum behavior... it's an all stop: don't even think of bolting that on. Yeah, it will run, but why did you buy aluminum heads in the first place?

[genehensley]

you should have done that already before you started reassembling the engine

[REDDRACO]

did you check valve seating leak seal before you bolted those heads on? and check the cc for actual cc's? did you port match anything? did you do any porting at all? did you do any extra unshrouding? the rpm heads appear ready to go, however we would like actual data on these outstanding quality heads, we all know heads need a go through especially after shipping. did you change valve springs? if so what are spring type and specs, cam specs, etc. thanks your video is an easy going video of guys putting on parts.

[TransSkateDate]

Sorry what side always goes up for the gasket? I couldn't hear, or what's the strap side??

[MLFranklin]

I completely wore out three taps when chasing my head bolt threads. It that normal? The taps were VermontAmerican, which is more of an economy brand. So maybe they thrifted on the alloy or hardening.

[jerryespinoza]

NEVER retap head screw holes. Use a chaser or youll regret it

[Jgarage]

I wanted to know how to build a set of Heads, parts list, what to check for. Take it to a machinist for valve seats?