Nutrition for Healthy Finger Tendons for Climbing: Pt 3 with Eric Hörst

The health of our tendons is such an important part of climbing and at one point in your climbing experience, you’ll likely start feeling soreness on your fingers or your elbow or shoulder. At that point, you’re at a crossroad - one way is down a path of injury and the other path is recovery. This mini-series was created to help you go down the path of recovery so that you can keep climbing, injury-free.

Part 1 - the science of healthy tendons
Part 2 - exercise and physical training you can do to have healthy tendons
Part 3 - nutrition, which paired with healthy exercise, can help reduce tendon injury

Referenced Links:

0:00 when you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
0:38 studies about nutrition with muscles
1:40 nutrition and connective tendons and ligaments
3:04 supplements for tendons
5:18 where to get the best collegen
6:18 how to get the most out of supplements

[drewetpa]

I liked the first two parts of this series. This guy no doubt is a respected expert and a good climber. It's a pity that so much of this video is an advert for his product. As a natural cynic his obvious commercialism started to make me doubt the accuracy of his science. Pity.

[thechisensei]

Most of the climbers in my generation (90s) or even now are trained by Eric Horst thru his books. We can't thank him enough. He's a sports science genius.

[cbrowne]

Cannot underestate how skeptical I am accepting research and advice from someone formulating and selling a supplement. Sorry.

[petermontgomery]

Glycine and proline aren’t essential amino acids like leucine or valine, the body can manufacture them

[mrmrdwade]

I really like how Eric connects diet and how the connective tissues absorbed nutrients. I am somebody that as he puts it “waist money” on nutritional products, my diet is out of balance. Eric does a great job of explaining how and why I am “wasting money” not that the products I am using are poor, my imbalanced is why they are ineffective. Thank you

[memyselfandI]

wtf eating food is "not realistic" so let me eat powder

[kendraabatsis]

I liked this series, I just wish he said more than "pork and my product." Thank you for interviewing though, the exercise episode was my favorite.

[jenamarston]

These were all very helpful, my husband recently was having tendon issues in his finger and then a small injury so we watched all 3 and we had a lot of our questions answered so thank you!

[kozusaisima]

If it's a "nutritional video" and there's some dude trying to sell a product I just assume the entire video is a scam. Collagen is good for tendons but I don't really value the dudes words.

[petroffma]

Our bodies can synthesize gly and pro - why do we need to ingest?

I love Eric's training for climbing, but find the supplement pitches (his own product) super sketchy with poorly supported research.

[lilhefnerWC]

I think we should expand in the pork idea, there’s reactions to it we should understand instead of throwing the isolate into the body I’d say. It’s just a opinion great content 🤙🏾

[sarahb.]

The only reason why I can do the things I can do while I gave hEDS is because of my careful diet. And I cannot eat pork. I react to it. Cannot eat most regular supermarket meat in fact (due to a corn allergy).

And since EDS is genetic, my body does not form the connective tissue correctly. So no matter what I eat it will not actually fix it - but the diet does help me be pain free in the joints.

I am 51 by the way. And all of my joints are still very stretchy + hypermobile!

[frankfromupstateny]

Besy and cheapest way....is to make and keep bone broth in one's fridge -that's well-rounded folks. Free pro advise.

[FreshWaterWindsurfer]

Great information - thank you! I always have a smoothie before I go climbing, and I add collagen! I knew I was doing the right thing, thank you for confirming what I'm doing and giving me my "Why"! You are amazing!

[Saveg]

collagen is in a lot of food. you do not need a supplement especially if you already eat meat and fish,

[pzemekPL]

so baisically eat collagen and promote blood flow to fingers by light exercise

[Haglar]

I was convinced that I could benefit from collagen supplementation but then I realized that I already have a high protein diet and that, for example, a single egg has more collagen in it than a scoop of the collagen supplement...am I wrong?

[nathanyoung]

I did a small amount of research. Eric doesn't seem to have any medical credentials. However, he does seem well researched on the topic. I would definitely take his word with a grain of salt. With that said...

I like the first two parts, but for most people supplements aren't necessary. They aren't a good replacement for a well balanced diet either. They should be used for special circumstances, such as a nutritional deficiency due to a medical issue.

There isn't a huge amount of research about collagen supplements for climbers. However, there is a lot of research about how good a diverse diet is for anybody.

I don't have credentials either, but I am pulling this information from my nutrition class. Take nutritional advice from registered dietitians.

[楊學翰-mi]

Thanks for the info! That was very helpful

[MattCPhil]

Bahah seeing him advertise his product as the superior collagen on the market…his product is no different from any other collagen peptide or hydrolized collagen as long as it’s sourced from bovine hides, marine collagen is no good, and ‘super collagen’ isn’t a thing it’s just ‘collagen’. Great video though with good info