My Atomos Ninja V+ Broke (And It Shouldn't Have)

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Repairing an Atomos Ninja V+ that has broken standoffs for screws due to weak plastic being used to hold it together.
UPDATE: Please read pinned comment!

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Table of Contents:
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0:00 - The Setup
1:17 - The Problem
5:00 - Repair Attempt
9:36 - Results & Final Thoughts

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#atomos #ninja #teardown
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Ninja V+ Broken Standoffs

This problem applies to a batch of Ninja V+ (not Ninja V) units manufactured in November and December 2021. A different type of glue – not to specification – was used to attach a metal screw nut. This glue was susceptible to becoming soft. We did not see the problem initially because it took a little time for the fault to become apparent.

The problem was identified at the end of December 2021 and we managed to withdraw approximately 80% of the units from our sales channel. From January until today, we have had approximately 200 support tickets that have mentioned this problem, so it does not appear to have affected every unit. We have exchanged all of these units. Since the beginning of 2021 we have produced many more Ninjas, in different batches, and there has been no sign of the problem re-occurring.

That said, our official position continues to be that we will swap out any Ninja V+ that exhibits this issue. We have manufactured over 250, 000 Ninja units since its introduction four years ago, and we are committed to producing a high quality, high value product that delivers the best possible customer experience.

It should be noted that we also offer people who register their product the opportunity to extend the warranty to 3 years from date of purchase, at no extra cost.


Whilst we do our best to cover comments on social media, raising a support ticket means that we are better placed to log and track these issues.

Thanks for your continued support and understanding.

The Atomos Team

AtomosChannel
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For future reference: The 'broken bits' are called 'mounting bosses' (almost any protruding part can be called a 'boss' - it's where we get the term 'emboss'). The metal inner threaded female screwthreads inside the mounting bosses are called 'threaded inserts'. They're commonly heat-staked (hydraulically pressed in) just after the injection moulding stage when the plastic's still soft.

OroNZ
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They have many other flaws they don't acknowledge or fix, like for example, when you install the H265 recording license onto a Ninja V, Ninja V+, or even in their shogun connect, it drains the internal clock little battery at an extremely fast rate, I've been taking mine apart every month or so just to replace that battery and have the device save the clock and other related settings, so annoying, and they keep ignoring it is an issue. You should test that too, maybe they will listen to you.

DJLsbVapes
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Thanks Gerald! I just checked mine, and sure enough, it's happening. I purchased mine in the first few weeks it was out. I've used it a lot. Just never pulled on the back. Looks like the only screw that is still holding is the one in the middle. I just opened a support ticket as per your link in the pinned comments. I appreciate it, man. Also, kudos to Atomos for owning up to this so fast. Hopefully they replace my unit and don't leave me waiting a bunch of time. Kinda need it. Which is a testament to how good it is.

capturelightmedia
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Gerald I really hope you see this because I wish you would shine a light into this:

There’s something going on with the Ninja V+ in general beyond this. I have had 4 of them, and so far, all have been broken in some way, shape, or form upon arrival.

One wouldn’t record above 4K 30fps no matter the cable or camera (I have a Ninja V to compare it to), the replacement has a loose SSD connector and suffers from several burn in, the next replacement was DOA, and the fourth is still in transit.


Ultimately, given what I have heard and now read in these comments, I believe there’s a more widespread issue here.

Not only this, but the way Atomos handles metadata and LOG is incorrect. If using Clog3, which is full to full range, since Atomos doesn’t write the range in the metadata, many NLE with just assume one or other and typically in resolve, it goes to legalized.

There’s also a color shift with their log footage that makes any Log to 709 luts not work correctly. Not only this, but the shift is not consistent. I have an R5, R5C, Ninja V, and Ninja V+. If I record internally on the R5C, it will not match the external recording on the same camera. The R5 with an external recorder will also not match the R5C internal nor external. This is with all the same settings, lens, controlled lighting.

This is something I have seen nobody talk about, but I have documented and already tried speaking with them about it. Both Canon and Atomos just blame each other and nothing is done for months now.

Cornerstone_Creative
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This is the kind of video which makes this channel the best of its kind, I mean, Who hasn't tried to superglue something back together that in all honesty 'shouldn't have been able to break that easily' in the first place but, you surprised yourself because you've actually made it stronger by doing so. Nice one Big Daddy G. More of the same please (as and when you break something that is).

MRDJLINTON
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I just bought a couple of these through B&H. Definitely sending them back today once I get the shipping label printed.

justinuriahphoto
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@Atomos As a technical product designer I can tell you right away how to fix that. Add clips wich clip the backpannel to the body. Add structual fins around the round plastic intakes for the screw mounts. They should connect along the whole side of the round extrusions to the underlying body.

Joshua_S
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Same thing happened to my Ninja V while mine was under warranty. I did not drop or placed any excessive force on mine. I claimed the warranty. Sent it back to Atomos and they don't acknowledge it as a fault and refused the claim. I fought them for 3 months and they replaced it.

PhilsCampingReviews
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Happened to me aswell. I have a Ninja V+ with SDI module and it broke while I was on a job. GG Atomos. No better way to instill confidence and look professional than having to ducttape your recorder in front of your client...

MaxKissler
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The battery plate that came with my Amaran 60D has the exact same problem. 2 of the standoffs have broken off just due to the weight of the np-f batteries. However, that is a low-budget light that is clearly not built to be super durable so you don't expect the highest quality materials and design choices, whereas in your case you should be able to expect more durability from the Ninja series

LennertK
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I think the best solution would be epoxy made for plastic. The studs mounted perpendicular to a flat plane should be designed with a fillet. It’s a slope coming off the stud that flanges out forming a virtual triangle which is a structural element. When you epoxy a little puddle that runs down the side of the stud and up the stud if should become a much stronger support. By waiting and testing the epoxy as it starts to set up it will be like a gel dip the stud and place. Better to get atmos to fix, but if they blow you off…

nowuknowthis
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Tip number 2, use 100% adhesive silicon to glue cover on, then you will be able to take it apart by using a razor blade to split it apart.

Aspro
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FYI, Loctite has a variety of adhesives that are designed to seal but can be broken if necessary e.g. when you secure a screw that might shake (or two plastic bodies). When you hear that click when first unscrewing something, that's Loctite or similar product. Also, love the detail shot, the music, the casual Gerald sharing vibe. See you in the next one.

DarinSimmons
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What I would do is reach out to Smallrig and have them either make supports for their existing cage or make a new cage that has detachable supports that fit standard or units with modules on it so you can swap them out. Would help make it stronger. Also I’d always use epoxy not super glue.

soccrkng
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Atomos are good people - I’m sure they’ll watch this and make an adjustment - thanks for the warning!!

MarkBennettCameraCrisis
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Thank you Gerald ….I don’t have an Atomos product but we all need voices like yours because nowadays there’s nobody criticizing anything.❤

EugenBrinzoiu
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Wow. I will be more careful attaching or removing the battery from my Ninja V. I've had it for a few years and have no issues yet. Thanks, Gerald - very useful post.

wkmpellucid
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I own two Ninja V's and one of them has this exact issue. I superglued the frame backing back onto the main board. Not ideal but it works.
I was very disappointed with the issue. However I will say, after similar wear and tear on the second newer monitor, the issue has not presented itself.
Maybe I have been more careful but it's hard to tell if its user error or factory issue, or even design flaw.

beardoswaggins
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I had the exact same issue with my Ninja V. I really liked the Atomos experience but after getting my Ninja V broken and seeing the internal structure and why it broke, I find it absolutely ridiculous to pay this amount of money. I'm no engineer but they should really come with another design or something easy to fix. Some friends told me that they got into the Blackmagic Design Assist exactly because of this and found that the experience is much better. I won't buy another atomos ninja V till they fix the design.

diegoleance