100% TIGHT: FRAMING Tips | Best Insulated Houses

preview_player
Показать описание
30% of home energy loss comes from air leakage. We show you the 3 best ways to stop air leakage and FRAME the best insulated houses.

1. Zip R Sheathing and EPDM gaskets are the top way to achieve a high performance energy efficient, super insulated and air tight home building project. : We use the Zip System R sheathing for continuous 1" of rigid foam insulation the eliminates the thermal bridging from the stud wall framing and holds energy much better than wood sheathing alone. It installs in one step (accomplishing three systems in one): structural plywood sheathing, continuous R6 insulation, and the vapor and air barrier Zip System instead of another layer of house wrap like Tyvek.
We install our Zip R sheathing on top of EPDM wall gaskets at the top and bottom of the sheathing to framing contact to prevent large and small gaps from leaking air and losing energy. Zip Tape seals the air leaky edges and panel butt joints of the Zip R Sheathing.

Zip System R-Sheathing:

EPDM sill and wall gaskets:

2. Frame with 2x6 Walls and build Insulated Headers: A insulated 2x6 framed exterior wall (R19) is 50% more resistant to energy loss than a similar 2x4 wall (R13). We fill the air space void between vertical 2x10 headers with rigid foam to create a thermal break and insulate more of the wall framing that would otherwise be forgotten. We use scraps of our Zip R Sheathing to piece together the foam we need to make insulated headers. Reducing waste and adding insulation!

3. Frame Energy Star Corners. Turning a 2x6 90 degrees on edge to create inside corner framing/nailing for drywall will leave a corner pocket with access to insulate after sheathing is installed on the exterior.

#zipsheathing
#thankaframer
#framing
#greenbuilding
#ziprsheathing
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

What is YOUR favorite Tip?
The house in this video just scored 0.4 ACH (air changes per hour)! That's tight enough to exceed the rigorous Passivhaus standard of 0.6ACH. That's 10x tighter than building code! It's literally so tight that we'll have to provide special means of fresh air in order to keep mold from growing! Getting fresh air is complicated in this house because it has no HVAC ductwork; other than a hood fan and bath exhaust fan. Stay tuned for a video about the solution.

HeirloomBuilders
Автор

Nice job here. I’ll be honest, a lot of framers don’t understand or explain well, the things you just covered here. I’m a building analyst and appreciate you taking the time to get it right, understand the building science and help others to see it. We’ll done

keithmacdonald
Автор

Absolutely love the sketch up models as well. I got a 3.3 ACH on my house that was production built just by going behind the pros after the fact and air sealing as much as possible (construction supervisor told me no matter what I did, I wouldn't get lower than a 5)
Already got my next lot and am looking forward to killing that number as I am taking on a bigger role in the construction. Love your videos

northwestmh
Автор

That was really solid. I liked the points about the headers and corners for filling in insulation where there wouldn't be any normally.

victorquesada
Автор

I like the emphasis on doing it right even if it takes more planning/time. That is the way to build.

whatmakesthisourhome
Автор

It’s always encouraging seeing a builder who cares about air sealing. What kind of blower door numbers are you getting?

nathanshirai
Автор

Great Video. Nice work on the sketch up.

garlandlew
Автор

This is great! I really love the sketch up model.

ncparkerfamilyvideo
Автор

Great info and I wish I had used insulated board on the exterior of my home, but I did use aerated concrete panels. I used silicon on all joins, bottom plate, top plate and corners, around window joins and filled all cavities in corners, windows with sound, fibre insulation packing it in. So much to learn and thanks to you guys for sharing additional information

silviofontana
Автор

Great video. is it code to use the insulated door headers? Do you use insulated headers on interior bearing walls?

JG-ssik
Автор

Logan these are excellent tips (quick and easy). I watch a lot of Matt Risinger and he has some great ideas but for most, his upgrades are too expensive for most.

Curious, how do you handle air exchange with such a tight home? ERV?

JDR
Автор

what size of the P gaskets you used between ZipR panels and framing?

great tips!

rajibroy
Автор

Do you air seal with anything like knauf eco seal or Dap air stop?

stevenelson
Автор

I do like zip R. But I find it a bit disingenuous when people say it’s “no more labor” Than regular 7/16 zip. The stuff is A LOT heavier. And then you need to account for the bottom edge and ensure that is well sealed as it will be 1-1/2” overhang from your sill. Worth it? Absolutely. But it is a tad more labor-intensive and more of a hassle compared to the plain OSB zip.

pacodefrancis
Автор

Good tips but put those hands in your pockets. You wouldn't put them in people's faces in person so don't do it on film.

OutNAboutWithBrad