Thin-kerf vs. full kerf- Don't choose the wrong table saw blade!

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[NickSchade]

My typical use of a table saw is ripping strips for cedar strip canoes. I used 3/16" thick strips ripped off the edge of a board. If I were to use a standard full kerf blade, this would mean that 33% of each board would be converted into sawdust. Instead I use a small 7.25" diameter blade intended for a skill saw that has a 1/16" thick kerf. 

This means that I am still wasting 25% of each board in sawdust, but for a typical canoe that might need 26 board feet of cedar to make all the strips, using the thin kerf blade I only need 20 board feet. For every inch of board width I am getting almost one more full strip going from 3.2 strips per inch to 4.

BTW, cedar is very easy to cut so heat buildup is not a problem and the smaller diameter blade puts less load on the saw and is less likely to distort. Since this blade is the most likely to be in my saw, I end up using it much of the time when I'm doing other work. They are amazingly good blades for the price.

[patrickweckermann]

Just thought I would add another factor in here. Some saws come with splitters/riving knives that are too thick for thin-kerf blades, and can bind up in the middle of a cut. You may need to modify your existing one, or make/purchase a thinner riving knife if you want to safely use thin kerf blades with your saw.

[chagildoi]

Just enough good information to be high brow. Just enough self deprication to know that life should be enjoyable and we should all take a step back and enjoy it a little more.

[Paracorder]

It’s awesome to look across the timeline of the channel and see the transition from stumpy to the teacher you are now. I am very knowledgeable because of you and the community and make my few hours a week in the shop all the more safe, productive, and fun!

[Staryder]

Great video sir. One point I think you missed is when you run your wood through a thin kerf blade and have it jam on your standard width riving knife.

[tracdfar]

So, I'm sitting in front of the TV watching your video. My wife walks in, sighs, rolls her eyes, and says "Another woodworking video? Really? We'll, at least, Stumpy Nubbs makes sense." That, my friend, is the ultimate compliment!

[nickduffy]

That was a really useful explanation of a subject I’ve wondered about for many years, thank you so much.

[vallejokid]

I switched to a Frued 24t full kerf flat tooth blade that you personally recommended and man I love it. It cuts much better than my 50t combo blade. Thanks for your informative videos. Helps make me be a better woodworker. Well, I still suck at it.

[BL-suwt]

Perfectly reasoned, and well presented. Good JOB!

[PeterEmery]

Our Men's Shed operation used to use 2.5mm kerf blade in a 3 hp SawStop table saw, yet the riving knife was thicker. When this was pointed out to us by a visiting rep from the company we bought it from we switched to the thicker 3.2mm blades.

[frankvucolo]

James, great conversation and yes, it goes deep with all the variables. But remember, the cost of a kerf can add up. Take for example ripping a piece that is 2” thick and 72” long with a standard, 1/8” blade. Based on the most common stuff we rip ($5 - $20 / Board Ft) that kerf will cost you between $0.63 and $2.50. (The kerf is 0.125 BF) take that to exotics and Holly is $5.38, Cocobolo $8.13 and Gaboon Ebony a whopping $15 per kerf. So having a dedicated thin kerf ripping blade for your saw is a good idea for the next time you will be doing any considerable ripping. Switching to the thin kerf rip will save you $0.16 on a cheap wood or $3.75 on Gaboon Ebony. Everything else falls somewhere in the middle. And that is per rip. So imagine me ripping 1/32 veneers from 8/4 Ebony for banding. The resulting veneer is of less value than the kerf that went into the dust collector! And while a bandsaw rip will leave a smaller kerf, you have to start oversize to clean up the rougher kerf, plus the labor to do it. It’s all a little bit like putting dollar bills through a shredder connected to your dust collector.

[merrick]

Probably the best wood working channel

[mmkahr]

I have a dewalt 8 1/4 contractor saw and before I bought a new blade I was getting circular-saw-quality cuts..(brand new saw) I bought a full kerfed, Ridge Carbide Super blade, per stumpys recommendation.. The saw runs it just fine and I am getting glass smooth cuts if I do my part. This blade outperforms this saw, which has no problem pushing the full kerf. Thanks!!

[shripadlale]

Probably the most enjoyable educational video I have seen! Made me chuckle quite a few times! As always, thanks for sharing.

[larrythompson]

Something that I do is use a smaller diameter blade when (usually) I don't need full depth. It's amazing how much more power you will have and a bonus is that the blades are much less expensive! Keep up with the great videos, and thanks!

[BKMakes]

Thanks James, always learning and you’re a great teacher!👍🏻

[RonAday]

Excellent - as always. I learn so many things I didn't know I didn't know watching these videos. Just last night I watched a video where a guy was going on and on about how awesome thin kerf blades are. Then here comes StumpyNubs with logic and reason letting me know thin kerf has it's issues. Awesome!

[Myopicvisions]

Thanks! I love my dewalt flexvolt table saw which uses thin kerf blades because it uses a battery powered motor. But I've noticed that I've been getting rougher cuts with my 40 tooth blade when ripping, than my 24 tooth blade. This explained a lot.

[HC]

"You didn't know you didn't know" ... Priceless. This reminds me of ...
"Bootstrap's bootstraps."
"Bootstrap's bootstraps."
... There's one more advantage about thin blades... If you work with POM and you get short pieces that you need to make thin slices of, thin blades waste very little material (as the video already states), but you might get one extra slice (or even more), which results in a much lower cost for materials, since POM is quite expensive. Same thing if you cut aluminum.
-So if you work with very expensive materials, a thin blade could allow you to juust get you one extra usable piece out of that material. (One reason to consider getting a bandsaw for some uses).

For general-purpose rafter cuts, MDF and plywood, I'd probably choose the full size blade myself.

Great video as always, James, highly appreciated.

[lifelikelines]

I actually said "no way" out loud. I don't know why I'm still suprised when everytime I have a question, you already have a video for it. What I'm not suprised by, is that when I find that video, it's well detailed and answered more questions then I had even thought of yet. Thank you for your channel. And I've been loving the old mustache mike videos since I started a big scroll saw project recently. 👍. Much love stumpy nubs.