Most don't even know they have one! - A bad table saw idea...

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Thin Kerf table saw blades are MASSIVLY over hyped! I think they can be the wrong choice for many woodworkers. And some people say the wrong blade can lead to disaster!

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▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
Thin Kerf table saw blades are MASSIVLY over hyped! I think they can be the wrong choice for many woodworkers. And some people say the wrong blade can lead to disaster!

★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★


*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)


*Some other useful links:*

★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★

(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

StumpyNubs
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Low powered, low-end table saws were all I could afford when I started woodworking. I learned to listen to my saw motor to match the saw cut feed rate to the motor sound. Another thing I learned if scorching became a problem: I'd make my first cut 1/32" wider than I needed, then run the cut a second time 1/32" narrower to remove the scorched wood. Starter level tools do require some hacks/tricks to get better quality results than the tools normally deliver.

deeshrier
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“A lot of folks just repeat what they hear without knowing the facts.” Is such a painfully true comment on almost all topics online.

robnhannon
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I love the fact that you say what you believe, and if others want to argue with you, you're fine with it.

markduggan
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When a guy is named StubbyNubs gives you safety listen!!

BlueEyedColonizer
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Right blade for the right cut. Pretty simple formula. But YOU explain, provide room for other opinions and don't shout. You're just a pleasure to listen you.

TheWoodFly
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I'm of the opinion that blade manufacturers are pushing the thin kerf idea because there is less material in thin kerf blades. Thus, they save a few pennies on every blade sold. I prefer full kerf blades due to the stability during the cut.

OldMadScientist
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as a retired trained furniture maker, i can say i have never expected to get a finished rip edge off a table saw. i always cut slightly over and then take to final size on the jointer or thicknesser. if i had tried to use a saw edge on a glue up my gaffer would have castrated me.

TaylerMade
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I fully agree with you, James. Two years ago I ditched my thin kerf blades in favor of a high quality full kerf combination blade. For thick hardwood I use a full kerf rip blade. The thin kerf blade caused me all manner of problems. Burning, out of square, more prone to kickback.

djpenton
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This is helpful. I want to toss in a tip I got from Matthias Wandel on his channel. Instead of putting in a thin-kerf 10" saw, which possibility Wandel has never mentioned as far as I know, he has demonstrated putting a 7 1/4" circular saw blade in a table saw. One amazing helpful aspect of it is the fact that the torque needed for a 7 1/4" circular saw blade is much less than that needed for a 10" blade. Then too, the kerf on Diablo circular saw blades is 0.059", whereas 3/32" (which is about the thinnest you would get with a conventional 10" blade) is 0.094". The thinner kerf means even less torque being required. True, you can't cut very thick boards with such a blade, but it would not be crazy in all cases to just flip the board over... the little irregularity may not matter, or it can be hand-planed off.

moc
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I wish more blade manufacturers would publish their thickness of the blade's body, which (as you say) is the most important number when matching it to your riving knife.

IanPrest
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yes about the knife, keep it lubed or waxed as well . been watching you for years know . I have 40 years in woodworking. and you are real and down to earth, thanks

mikekubis
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I was going to buy a thin kerf combination blade for my 1-3/4 hp Sawstop, but ordered a full kerf blade by mistake. I put it on and my saw was transformed--able to cleanly cut material that I had a hard time with before. And yes, it was a Ridge Carbide.

danaseidl
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A sharp, clean blade is always the best blade. When it gets dull or full of pitch it will burn and bog. Thin or full kerf

-justin-
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As a Navy Seabee in Vietnam, we spent aot of time ripping oversupplys of 2 x 8, 2 x 10, and 2 x 12, into badly needed 2 x 4s. Sharp bladed were in high demand. An officer on a trip to Hong Kong picked up a supply and man were they thin. We couldnt rip as straight cut as the bladed would follow the path of least resistance, following grain. The solution was to mount 2 blades together, offsetting the teeth. Safe or not, it worked. I started powwr tool wood wirking in the early 60s.. you didnt mention setless hollow ground blades.

ronjones
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I've been using a Freud 30T thin kerf glue line rip blade, and it has been awesome. Frankly, I was amazed at how well it cuts. My old 1.5 hp Grizzly table saw powers it right through 2+" thick oak, walnut, and maple leaving a beautiful finish, and when cutting a boatload of thin strips I get more strips per board. I didn't buy it for thick wood, but I'm glad I tried it. I also use a Systi-matic rip blade which also leaves a great finish, but it will bog the saw down in thick hardwoods. My saw does not have a riving knife. I've had no misfortunes so far. I've been a serious hobby woodworker for over 40 years.

Dales_Workshop
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Great common sense approach to selecting the right blade for the right job. And great safety tips too. Thank you!

johnnyb
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Your videos are the most informative and thought-provoking content on the internet, with the bonus of not trying to sell you something every time you watch one. With that said, I always go to the list of recommended products, and if there is something I need, I use your link, like with the self-centering drill bits.

The advice in this video reminds me of sitting with my grandfather in his shop over 45 years ago. He was a German immigrant who was a cabinet maker in Germany, but he made his money in coal when he came to the US, so woodworking became a hobby. He taught me a lot about safety and a lot about quality. He always said, “The best quality tool makes the best quality product.” When a new product would be released and everybody would run to buy it because it would make them better woodworkers, he would tap his head and say, “This is what makes you better at anything you do, your brain. Learn and perfect the fundamentals, and you will be great at whatever you do!” Your philosophy and perspectives sound a lot like his and bring me back to those fun days of building something unnecessary like his tenth desk because he wanted to do it better. He gave them all away, but I am lucky enough to have the last one he made, his best according to him. A solid walnut desk that weighs over 400 pounds.

Thanks for the knowledge and be safe and well.

dhaas
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Thank you for sharing, I totally agree with you. Thin kerf blades should not be used to cut angles, they flex way to much during the cut. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, h cool and healthy.

norm
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I have a 1980’s era Craftsman table saw. I use a thin kerf rip blade and a thin kerf crosscut blade because it has a 1 hp motor. I change blades depending on the cut I’m making. I have used a “combination” blade, but it didn’t do either rip or crosscuts well. I also have a full kerf rip blade that I use to “joint” ripped edges. I don’t mind changing blades.

johnritchie
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