Fall 2021 Haute Couture ROAST (Schiaparelli & Iris Van Herpen)

Haute Couture has come and gone once again, and in the first part of a four-part series, we will be breaking down the collections from Iris Van Herpen's eponymous line and Daniel Roseberry's latest Haute Couture collection for the house of Schiaparelli. Iris Van Herpen's collection titled "Earthrise" utilized recycled plastic spheres, silicone patches, and structured draping to give the viewer the idea of descent from Earth, while not feeling too extraterrestrial. She worked with artists like Rogan Brown & Casey Curran to develop their works into dresses and gowns that transcend traditional Haute Couture notions. And who can forget a skydiving finale gown?

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[rayofblacklight]

I thought that beautiful "coral reef" necklace was actually representing the bronchi in the lungs ...

[null]

The “coral reef” necklace is a pair of lungs.

[ChuffedLemon]

I literally screamed when I saw Roseberry's Schiaparelli and IvH's exquisite collections drop. THEY ARE TOO GOOD AND ALL THAT I'VE EVER WANTED. This. Is. Couture.

[medardaslocalcuisine]

That lung necklace during this pandemic is a moment

[MackenzieJones-qh]

"If Iris van Herpen isn't designing your parachute, why do you have a parachute" love that

[marinaliz]

I would LOVE to see Doja Cat in Iris Van Herpen

[worldlit]

Iris Van Herpen's designs should be part of a welcome package for aliens.

[heiress.]

The lung bronchi tree necklace is already a HIT. Revolutionary.

[angelathemoment]

As a Spanish woman I appreciate Luke so much for calling matadors toreros which is how we call them in Spain and learning the name sombrero cordobés and so on. You are doing amazing sweetie!

[EJproductionsxD]

I love how Luke catches all these amazing obscure references to old collections, historical clothing, art etc. but doesn't recognise that the necklace represents the lungs

[MsDessybee]

Yes, yes YES to the point about Iris’ collaboration with artists!! Her work has been the subject of several exhibitions at art museums and she could honestly be considered an artist herself. Folks gotta stop playing with her!

[h.]

The "lung necklace" is an example of how humanity and nature are intertwined and how often we forget that we, as humans, are a part of nature. We view it as outsiders, detached from its phenomena and power. This piece, in my opinion, reminds us of how nature is truly at our core, when our bodies imitate it's characteristics, that's when you know that you are indeed also nature. The lungs remind us of tree roots, and how both are supposed to sustain a life. Life imitates art and nature is the most perfect art form.

[shlkyc]

The jeans look from Schiaparelli, with the backwards presentation (see the pockets and leather "label" tag placement), is completely genius as a statement, when you look at the sort of body-patchwork surrealism that runs throughout the whole work.

[gloriac.]

Schiaparelli AND IVH??? We eating good today

[lauremarchildon]

The horn like straps that are a reminder of bull horn's is such a nice detail.

[rontibm]

That coral reef was actually Lungs (but only its ducts)

[RealElongatedMuskrat]

Iris is one of the most exciting and innovative designer currently working imo. Her mind 😩🙏✨

[acidangel]

I think the necklace having a multitude of possible meanings is the whole point. It could be a tree, lungs or coral. It effectively highlights the interconnectedness of everything. It's breathtaking

[jgreen]

The black dresses you keep mentioning have “tendrils” seem to be bulls no? As a reference to the matadors in the collection.

[elizajurd]

I'm just glad I live in the same time period as Iris Van Herpen.