Fall 2021 Haute Couture ROAST (Fendi & Pyer Moss)

In our fourth and final part of our Fall 2021 Haute Couture review series, we will be taking a look at both Fendi by Kim Jones and Pyer Moss by Kerby-Jean Raymond. Kim Jones' second Fendi Haute Couture season was a rather intriguing yet subtle exercise in the Fendi form. From Baroque sculpture to Renaissance Costumes Jones fed these inspirations into different interpretations of fur and feathers. His tailoring was thorough, although his draping still needs work, but this is a Fendi Haute Couture collection on the same level as Karl Lagerfeld & Silvia Venturini Fendi. As for Pyer Moss' first Haute Couture show, Kerby-Jean Raymond delivered in the opulent setting and performance department, and his theme of black inventors and patent holders was a nice take on his usual re-educating of American history. But the clothing did not match up, as there were more costume-y looks than Couture, which was rather disappointing. And the lack of design techniques we've seen in the past from fully crystal-encrusted garments to precise tailoring was almost entirely non-existent.

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[redmanish]

It’s disappointing that the Pyer Moss looks seemed so costumy, but the FAR more disappointing this is that they just looked plain CHEAP. Moschino and others have shown that campy and costumy is okay as long as the construction and design skills are solid. These unfortunately seemed like a misguided fashion student’s take on couture, where they think props will save a lack of vision and ability. It was even more disappointing that we saw flashes of brilliance that made the lows seem even worse.

[elsielinstrom]

The Pyer Moss collection feels too literal...

[baekksong]

we have an america themed met gala coming up don't we? petition for someone to wear the giant peanut butter jar just for gags

[rbpunk]

You gave a respectful and honest, constructive criticism of the "Pyer Moss" collection. I agreed with this critique. It was too literal and campy. It lacked true couture construction for a majority of the looks. I hope he takes notes and comes back next season bigger and better.

[MLBoykin]

Appreciated the history lesson — black history is history — Kirby gave us, but this collection is not haute couture. Don't know if he just has a bunch of "yespeople" working with him or what, but if he attempts haute couture again, do and complete the actual assignment.

[LovelyCuteCharms]

As much as I want to like Pyer Moss collection I felt soo underwhelmed by it… coming from someone who is Black myself as I’m always rooting for everyone Black but I feel like it could have been much more couture for me. And it kinda upset me because I was really hoping he would show up and show out but….

[destiny]

“Things take time, also I’m great at procrastinating” LMAO RELATABLE

[zara.ema]

i really liked this Fendi collection, the majority of the designs are very beautiful

[jadelee]

Pyer Moss's collection looks like something you'd find in an eccentric Halloween costume shop.

[rodrisuarez]

I'm worried that Pyer Moss is read as "unworthy" or that is taking haute couture as a joke by some due to this collection. It was rough, but the worst part is that it could've been so good, the concept was very promising. Let's see what the brand does on the future.

[reggieroon]

Yeah, what we don't want as black people is to finally get invited to the power players table, but only out of pity and not be treated the same. Pyer Moss is in a different league now, and sure there may be some things that hold specific cultural significance that you Luke may not fully grasp the weight of, but that is the case with all cultures and should not disqualify you from researching and critiquing their application and translation of these themes into wearable art. I agree, Pyer Moss's display was disappointingly literal. I can understand his inclination to be so literal as sometimes, as black people, we fear the rest of the world won't understand our references or care to do the extensive research that Luke at this point is known for, but still I feel like this collection didn't utilize the same technical skill and nuance that Pyer has now become known for.

[EE.]

Yanno what I was surprised how much I liked so many of the Fendi looks. Definitely some misses in there, as you pointed out lol. I appreciate all your work and descriptions for the video! :)

[kh]

That on jar is straight up a Halloween costume. Yikes on a lot of these

[godliveopoku-duah]

You're right. He gave a history lesson and forgot the real assignment. There's nothing about the Pyer Moss collection that resembled haute couture.

[latristessdurera]

I normally route for a underdog but the Pyer Moss collection was just dreadful. I feel sorry for the families of the inventors that Kerby chose to “honour” 💩

[pennedarts]

Pyer Moss collection seems like a school project that you have to finish it even if you dont really feel it and you wrap it up just to pass with the average grade...

[BbGun-lwvi]

The Fendi collection was stunning! True haute couture

[fashioningtheself]

Thank you for your candor! It's a tricky proposition because we all applauded the opportunity that was given to Pyer Moss. We were rooting them, we were all rooting for them 😂 But the fact is that the show was ill-conceived and poorly executed. Period-t.

[mitjahladen]

Honestly even tho i love camp, i absolutely hate that pyer moss collection.

[marikotrue]

The Fendi collection proves that a definitive designer vision for a collection's theme is critical but also is excellent tailoring, attractive silhouette, intricate materials and artisans to piece it together. I understand the important theme of history that Kerby-Jean Raymond was trying to convey, perhaps he should have added a second set of looks in the same collection using the feeling, colors and shapes to reflect more subtly what the more literal fashion was presenting.