how to build a wardrobe for a changing body

Gain weight recently? Or maybe you've lost it? Or maybe you're bloated, or pregnant, or hormonal or even a PCOS girlie like me. Never fear, a wardrobe that fits your style and shape doesn't have to cost the earth! Here are some of the tips I've learned over the years to find clothes that fit me as my weight fluctuates so I can save my money, my style and my sanity. Add your own in the comments below!

ALL THE LINKS YOU'RE LOOKING FOR:

After filming this video I ALSO found these super cool looking adjustable patterns:

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[mushirahabib]

Hi, Leena! I am from Bangladesh, where the majority of the *traditional outfits* are sown by our regular tailors that we personally know. And when they make our clothes, we can always ask them to leave some extra fabric on the side, in case we gain weight. Then we can open up the seam ourselves to make the clothes bigger, or take it back to the same tailor (or any tailor for that matter) to open it up for us. The same theory applies to losing weight. We can either stitch down the clothes ourselves by following the original seam, or take them to any tailor to fix it for us. In this case as well, the extra fabric that's being taken in, remains on the clothes, in case we need to change it again. ❤

[mariahgeiger-williams]

The deep body neutrality here was so healing for me. I’ve also been struggling with shoulders on tops maybe my whole life—those seamed shoulders just need a very precise fit! So many good ideas here!

[rochelle]

I really appreciate the historical context! And shout out to the sari, the sarong, the chiton, the kikoi, the kitenge, the kanga, and all the other amazing zero-waste and adjustable clothing that brilliant people all over the world have worn for centuries!

[charliebradford]

I just want to say, as someone with sight loss. I really really appreciate how you describe the clothing. Like saying about the criss cross straps or buttons on the elbows or whatever. It makes it much easier to feel what you're talking about. More of this please! We love accessible content!

[jrochest]

Very very VERY old school European clothing (ie, Tudor/Stuart clothes) used to be made out of, essentially, pattern pieces that were laced together.This kind of "body" was worn over a smock -- linen underwear, looks very like a nightgown -- that would fill in the gaps and prevent you from sweating on the outer gown. You never washed to bodice or the skirt (which was of course held on by ties) but you could take the cheap and sturdy linen smock and boil the hell out of it to get it clean. Changing into "clean linen" every day was how you stayed fresh and un-stinky.

Some theatrical costuming companies still do this, which makes SO MUCH sense, because then a garment can be worn by actors of a range of sizes.

If you want to know more about this, search for "a pair of bodies".

[carly]

I LOVE this concept. It flies in the face of all the cultural dialogue about our body (and specifically its size) being tied to our identity. Not to be dramatic but it’s also radically inclusive way to approach body positive/neutral fashion advice—every single body will change in size and shape. Focusing on the change itself rather than ways to make certain subsets of lumps and bumps look “good” is a new conversation.

[Miss_Lexisaurus]

Honestly, you are doing the lord's work with this video! My boobs grow and shrink through the month and, cos I have IBS and social anxiety, if I eat around people I will 100% bloat from the stress so trying to find outfits that look nice for "eating out" but that I can still sit in if I eat something has been a challenge!

[sevenleaguesunderthesea]

Masc folks, some tips from someone who's been a XS to XXL:

Buying things labeled 'relaxed fit' are your friend. 'Classic fit' garments also tend to be forgiving. "Muscle/athletic fit" clothes tend to be cut much tighter/closer to the body.

Buying clothes with a soft drape-y fabric means that they'll be comfortable and not bunch up awkwardly whatever size you fluctuate to. Viscose and silk/satin blends are great for this (eco-viscose/silk or secondhand is best of course!)

Joggers! You can get chino joggers that have elasticized waists and cuffs so they adjust with you. They still look professional while being comfy.

If your waist fluctuates a lot more than around your hips, trying wearing your pants at your hips. I know it can be a comfort thing, so this won't work for everyone, but as someone with a large stomach I've found wearing my pants at my hips much easier. It's okay to not cover your belly with your pants. Free your belly!

Vintage jackets have way wider arm holes than modern jackets, especially 80's silhouettes. They're pretty easy to find secondhand.

Edit: button hole extenders! A lifesaver for jeans without a lot of stretch and sleeve cuffs. You can usually find them in haberdashery shops in the same area you'd find bra extenders.

Hope these help! Love the tips in this video, a lot of them apply to menswear too!

[phedran]

PCOS, low income, chronic pain, disabled, probably autistic and adhd with the sensory issues that come with that.. between you and KathleenIllustrated you're both giving me hope that one day I can love my clothes again after a lifetime of struggle.

[FinelinerFantasy]

As someone who struggles with an eating disorder this is so helpful and the first time I've seen anyone talk about this! Thank you! x

[Theupoy]

As a new mom with a 30 week old babe, this is exactly what I needed to see. My body seems to be changing every week - fluctuating up and down, sometimes hour to hour depending on my hormones and breastfeeding schedule.

Thank you for all the lovely videos you make on books, sustainability, DIY, etc.

[harfir]

Some sewing ways you can make your clothes larger:
Tight armholes can be widened with a rhombus in the armpit.
Buttons can be extended by giving them an elastic loop to button into, attached to the fabric where the origin buttonhole is (like a permanent version of the pants button hair tie hack).
Panties can be extended with a small strip of fabric (nobody's gonna know).
Sleeveless shirts with tight armholes can be given a little v under the arm.
Pant legs can be widened with a strip of fabric by the outer seam: make it look decorative. This way you can also convert tight legs to straight legs etc.
If a sleeve is gathered and long enough you can take off the rigid cuff and make your own channel end seam and pull an elastic through it. You could also do this taking a sleeve from full length to elbow length etc.

[MissNoechen]

Thank you for including tips for every kind of weight fluctuation and not just belly & boobs! I gain weight most quickly around my hips which is why I tend to mostly wear high waisted skirts

[annabelle]

As a 29 week pregnant mom, I am ready for these tips! I really don't want to buy maternity clothes I won't use later.

[cathfelton]

Whats so interesting to me is that naturally the clothes that have lasted the longest in my wardrobe have met a lot of these requirements even if i didn't know what it was called before!
Would love a version of this for mens fashion if possible!!

[emerald_mtn]

Omg I love you! "It's planned obsolescence b@#$*". 😂 I have been watching your videos and have been inspired to get back into sewing. I am also a PCOS girly and need a new wardrobe to fit my new body. I went down the rabbit hole of fast fashion and your evolution of making clothes has inspired me.

[SilvanaFumarola]

Shirring can be done on a sewing machine! The elastic goes on the bobbin. Personally haven’t tried it yet but there are loads of tutorials on YouTube on how to do it.

[aubrey_edits]

Leena, I just genuinely believe that you are changing the world with content like this. Your videos have so directly impacted my choices when it comes to fashion!

[angelal]

As someone who first gains weight in my arms (and whose arms are also just generally bigger in proportion to my body than clothing designers think they should be), embracing sleeveless stuff has been such a game changer. Switching to knits for my arms specifically (like cardigans and things) or larger flannels that I leave unbuttoned over tank tops has let me actually feel comfortable in my clothes.

I spent SO LONG thinking I hated sleeves because I was ashamed of my arms and that the accentuated them. Turns out I hated sleeves because none of them fit.

[harfir]

Bra extenders, wrap pants (they can look very fancy) and ribbing has helped me a lot.
Also thanks for this video ❤