Mountain Safety: Why Capitol Peak is the Hardest Colorado 14er

Experts agree: Capitol Peak is by far the hardest 14er in Colorado.

In this video mountain guides and mountain rescue experts explain why Capitol is really a 5th Class peak, what makes the route so demanding, and why every climber must approach it with respect and a deep reservoir of mountaineering skill.

You'll also learn what are the most difficult parts of the peak. Hint, it's not the knife edge!

REALITY. Climbing is inherently dangerous! People die on Colorado 14ers every year.

NO GUARANTEE. CFI’s goal is to provide you with education and perspective. Our videos do not address all climbing risks. Viewing the videos does not guarantee your safety!

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY! Be fit. Get educated. Be aware. If you choose to climb, you accept and assume the inherent and other risks. You remain responsible for your decisions, your actions and your adventure!

[kristenoliveira]

I love these educational videos. They are extremely helpful for anyone planning a climb. You guys should reach out to some of these YouTubers (Virtual Sherpa, specifically) who have done all the 14ers and see if you can use their videos to help educate people. I was once a very unprepared climber and I learned the hard way that you really have to know your shit in the wilderness. I always thought that I'd get all the 14ers in CO until I saw Virtual Sherpa's videos and recognized how absolutely intense some of these climbs are. I think it's important for people to see that first-person perspective, it helps you recognize your limits before you make mistakes.

[cmcer]

I am glad we have CO14ersinitiative to educate all levels of climbers about what it takes to climb 14ers. I am sure you have already saved many climbers from making fatal mistakes, and helped others to safely enjoy their climbs as well. My mom was a wise woman when I was very young cutting my ropes into pieces until I went to college. Then she bought me "Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills" Second Edition in 1970. I guess she knew then she wasn't going to stop me, so she thought at least I should know how to do it correctly, I've only fallen once since then.

[espada]

"Just paddling out into big surf is a total commitment. - You can't just call time out and stroll on into the beach if you don't like the way things are goin'."

[jonhand]

Great video. So much valuable info. Please keep 'em coming!

P.S. Big fan of the marmot in the background.

[RidiPwn]

The fact that there are no markings, makes it insanely difficult for those that solely rely on them

[AbrahamLuedtke-gjdf]

If you’ve bagged a couple class 3s and rockclimb, I think you should go for this. Most incredible experience of my life.

[kidswoollett]

I would take issue with the statement that Capitol is "by far the hardest 14er in Colorado". It is a long day with lots of exposure, but the rock is fairly solid, and at the most difficult parts, there is no worry about rocks falling on your head. In my opinion, Little Bear (via the hourglass couloir) is both significantly more difficult technically and certainly more dangerous, especially if there are any other climbers on the route. Maroon Bells (with traverse) and Pyramid may not be as technically difficult, but (again in my opinion), are significantly more dangerous due to the rotten rock

[grahamyoung]

Great video, but as I’ve learned the hard way, it’s not summiting the peak that’s hard. It’s convincing your dad to let you go up when your 13

[thomaskauser]

I pulled a rock down and we were both light as a feather! It shattered and I never went or looked back ever again!

[freesoul]

Yes is a bad moment realizing you have also to return back 😅🤣...beside the jokes....this is not bullshit....how many times i did not fully enjoyed the summit because my mind was in some way the entire time thinking about the descent not giving me the possibility to relax 😅😓

[BruceJC]

Going down is always way more dangerous!

[claytonburris]

Great information here from a great imitative! Safety first and enjoy the journey.

[jedlink]

Great input. What's are best sandals to wear and socks or no sock? D you think a 20oz bottle of water is worth the added weight?

[chopperskier]

Looks similar to Granite Peak in Montana! Can't wait! Any mandatory rappels like Granite Peak?

[huskerhank]

You HAVE to know when to cut left to the Knife when you are descending. Go too soon and you're on a terribly exposed and loose ridge. Cut too late and you are in cliff danger and that's where most of the fatal accidents take place. For better or worse Capital is a 14er so it gets a lot of attention. If you aren't certain wait until somebody comes by so you can see where to turn left. Anything else--panic, over confidence, stupidity may very well lead to your demise.

[georgesheffield]

To many unqualified peak baggers try . The mountain can always win .

[secretamericayoutubechanne]

I guess I've been drinking I don't understand if this videos is about K2 over on the other part of the world, or about Colorado???

[Oldplacerminer]

Capitol is a walk in the park for any real climber. A climber means someone that can climb on rock, ice and snow. Someone who has training as in courses in rock, ice and snow climbing and even first aid. It takes years to develop these skills and you have to get out and aquire them. There not found on a computer. The vast majority of people don't have them as I have climbed Capitol solo and observed the hikers up there. There hikers because they don't qualify as climbers.

[georgesheffield]

Way over blown, to many newbys try above their skills . All you are saying applies to all 13 and 14 ers .

[dasburke]

its not a hard peak.. its just time consuming. You can knock out capitol peak in a day, just go on a good weather day. Being that we live in colorado, that shouldn't be much of an issue. This is the "classic" I know more than you and this how it has to be done, type video. These people are volunteers, that run on seniority system.. just a bunch of kooks.