brake proportional valve reset when unable to bleed

today on this guys garage we update our previous video with a much simpler method of operation.

Brake proportioning valves are the parts of a vehicle’s brake system that limit the amount of pressure reaching the rear brakes, which helps to prevent rear wheel lock-up, allowing you to stop your vehicle more safely and efficiently.

Whether your vehicle has rear disc brakes or drum brakes, the rear brakes require less pressure than the front brakes, which is why the brake proportioning valves exist, and why they’re so important.

some times when you can not bleed the brakes it is because the proportional valve has been activated and wont allow a part of the brake system to be properly bled. so follow along to get help with this issue
here is a link to a bleed tool.
💎To drain most standard and ABS brake systems-- To fit most vehicle brake bleeder fittings and worked with most standard and ABS brake systems.
💎Wide Applications-- Comes with 3.93 inch long silicon brake bleeding hose with universal rubber adapter which can fit most brake nipples. The Bleeding Kit Fits Most Hydraulic Brake System.
💎Easy Operation and Lightly--Midget size of the net weight is less than 1 kilogram for easy operation. With hand-free operation and step hook to control air conveniently. Requires only one person to complete.
💎Collects Dirty Brake Fluid without Spillage-- Dirty fluid is well collected in the bleeder, ensuring safe extraction. With integrated silencer to make a messy job cleaner, quicker and quieter.
💎Efficiently to Bleeding Work-- To bleed and flush hydraulic brakes and clutches with vacuum efficiently.

[rockwall]

You have no idea how much you just saved my ass

[dull_boy_]

Finally, a time where one pump is acceptable

[BruceLyeg]

I once read that brake videos are one of the most viewed categories of videos on YT

[GrampiesWorkshop]

How's she goin'? This is a good tip Shaun. You can get pretty messed up if the proportional valve starts to compensate and you don't know it!!! Thanks for sharing. Take 'er easy!!!

[TurningsbyTurner]

That was very useful and informative. Wish I had know that dozen of brakes ago!

[jodywooten]

Thanks a bunch, I will give it a shot

[brickmafiaindylocalsupe]

Perfect timing ! I was just about to start

[dyllanbabb]

Hey I commented on your post where you dyno'd your mustang using hunter sniper tuning software a while back. I still never got around to getting one lol. I have a 01 Durango rear wheel abs only. I put new pads and rotors on and had some rebuilt calipers (I didn't rebuild) on the front and the rear is disc brake converted from an 03 Durango. Everything worked as it should after bleeding brakes and installing the new front parts. The problem is, an interested buyer came to test drive it the other day, he definitely got his testing out of it, and he was speeding up and hitting the brakes pretty hard. Not excessive, but real firm about 2-3 times then we turned around and he did it 3 more times. All was well until we literally was about to turn into driveway and the front left caliper locked up. I thought the rear driver brake caliper may have been an issue too, and took it off, compressed it in and it was fine. I put it back on and forgot to press the pedal down to extend it back out before removing the front driver caliper and trying to compress it. It was a little hard at first, so I thought maybe the used booster I put in had the rod adjusted to far out. I loosened the nuts for master cylinder to back it out some and see if that would help, but didn't and noticed the front brake hose had small kinks in the metal line that mounts to caliper. So I changed it out and caliper compressed much better and I had to grind the divots flat on steering knuckle where the pads slide (these don't have removable slide clips) put it all back together and bled that caliper (ik alot of mistakes and cut corners happening here but I was in the middle of completely swapping the front steering and suspension on my truck when this happened) anyways I noticed the caliper works fine until the last little bit of compressing it, it gets hard. So I buddy bled it and decided to start the car (now 2 things, I never pushed driver rear caliper out and the damn master cylinder was still loose) and now obviously I have abs light on. Brakes work fine. At least the front and the rears bled slow at first but started to get a stronger flow after a couple times bleeding. I bled all 4 calipers fine however the abs light won't go out and I'm thinking it's proportioning valve, but wanted a second opinion on what order I should go about resolving this issue. To everyone else, this is why you don't rush jobs. I've worked on alot of cars, but screwed myself on one of the biggest things I try to avoid getting into.

[rcnfun]

What about on a system where it's front calipers and rear drums. I've watched bolth of your videos and it's definitely helped but I have no rear breaks and I've got front. I also replaced the master because it was seized and wouldn't move. Is there a chance I may have put some air in there and it caused the Portional valve to not alow the rear breaks? I also didn't bench bleed the master it was bleed on the car.

[andyvitale]

Perfect explanation. Thanks for sharing.

[DomAZ]

Great, very interesting, I'm learning something👍

[moneymatters]

Im going to try this tomorrow> i had my wife help bleed the brakes, and she was pushing the brake to the floor while pumping.

[Chavezrobert]

Hello and thanks for your videos . Does this method work for my older truck 77 chevy c30 front disc rear drums? Thanks.

[kdcwg]

I will try this tomorrow. Have a 77 vette in the shop that has a leaking caliper be a bone dry reservoir for the front circuit. New calipers are not getting fluid

[johnpettipas]

EXCELLENT. On. The. Most. IMPORTANT
SAFETY. Thing. On. A. VEHICLE 🚗.

[oscaresquivel]

Nice information, , I have a question, , what happens when you get on your car without starting it, and pedal y hard to press down, but ones you start you vehicle the brake pedal gos to the door with no brakes, this is a 1985 corvette , what do you think it is, , if you can answer my question, , , the soonest thx, , ,

[jmm]

Questions 1) you say to listen & watch for fluid (and/or air) at the actual brake fluid RESERVOIR, right? 2) you meanwhen you compress both of the problem calipers? 3) should you compress both of the calipers totally -- what i mean is, clamp the first one closed, and leave it clamped, then clamp the other one, so they are both clamped, and dont cross-feed into one another, right? 4) then re- mount the pronlem calipers and buddy bleed uning only (1) pedal hold-down press PER "bleeder release", yes?...but you can do several of these 1 pump/release steps until flow is good, right?

[FoodBodyHeal]

DONT EVER TAKE THIS VIDEO I haven't cursed so much in my life. 🤬

[ernestoblobergsr]

What if its the rear brake drums? Can I still reverse flow by utilizing the auto vac bleeding the front caliper as per the 1st Vid? Thank you.

[danielcoyle]

Neither of the rear (drum) brakes on my 1997 f250 are bleeding, even with a vacuum tool. Front calipers are bleeding. Just replace the booster and MC. Any ideas?