This Dodge is DEAD...No-Crank, No-Comm!

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This 2004 Dodge Ram was towed to the local shop after the owner replaced the battery and the truck refused to crank. Shop owner says that his scanner is not talking to the PCM...

Let's start with the basics and see why this truck is dead in the water.

THINK TOOL PROS:

Enjoy!
Ivan
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Since you checked power on top of the fuses but did you check if the fuse had good contact to the box? It would've been cool to see what's gone bad inside the box. Gread vid!

Kehvelii
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i am amazed at how many shops are out there that are lost without a scan tool. this was a basic level diag. no real curveballs thrown here.

richardcranium
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Great as ever, the question everyone asks (including myself) is ‘what’s the best scanner’, when actually the question should be ‘what’s the best information source’ 🤔

robc
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Good diagnosis. The repair for me would be cut wire and join to battery with inline fuse and put a tag on saying what it is.😁

Ianfx
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Very well done video. I would like to say that it can matter when it comes to providing power to a circuit like this. What we end up with here is basically connecting the load of Fuse 23 (20 Amps) to Fuse 22 (20 Amps). Now, I am NOT saying this will not work. It probably will. However, Fuse 22, which is a 20 Amp fuse, must now supply potentially both the 20 Amps load of itself (Fuse 22) and the 20 Amp load of Fuse 23. Also, now one (1) wire is carrying the current that was carried by two (2) wires (from the jumper to connection in fuse box). Picture one (1) wire from Fuse 22 going to the installed jumper, then fanning out to two (2) wires supplying the two (2) circuits.

I know that neither is likely to draw 20 Amps, more likely however possibly 10 Amps each, thus placing the maximum (or more) load on the 20 Amp Fuse 22, as well as the short wire between the jumper installed and where it connects in the fuse box. Again, this is not a criticism and I am not saying necessarily it will not work, just an observation.

A more robust fix, without replacing the expensive fuse box (which I totally understand not replacing), would be to install an external 20 Amp Fuse to the wire that connects to Fuse 23 (the load side), with the other end connected to where the battery positive comes into the Fuse Box. This would provide a separate 20 Amp Fuse for each 20 Amp potentially, (there IS a reason why 20 Amp Fuses were chosen for each circuit) load, more like it originally was. This would ensure that Fuse 22 does not blow due to possible overloading.

Finally, a possible example of how Fuse 22 could be overloaded would be IF it powers the lights which light up the instrument cluster and they are not LEDs, when the brightness is turned up (assuming the brightness can be controlled with a knob, or something), Fuse 22, assumed to already be very close to it's maximum of 20 Amps due to now powering the load of Fuse 23, in addition to it's own load, could be overloaded and blow. This is just off the top of my head to try and provide a possible example. There might be others.

This assumes that I correctly understand how the jumper was done. Maybe my understanding of it is not correct.. Probably would have been a good idea to measure the current on Fuse 22 (Fuse Box side of jumper), with all loads turned on, and to the maximum if anything is adjustable. Just as a quick check for this mod. Thanks for the video. Again, very well done video.

TheOmegaman
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You are one of the best diagnostic techs around !!! So methodical. How many shops would sell this person a PCM and any other number of components and still not find the issue. Thanks

robertanderson
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Using a heat gun or hair dryer first might help some of those cold plastic prongs from breaking off. You never know how bad it could be just one or three.
Good alternative fix although would it be a good idea to document to the truck that fuse XX is now powering the PCM vs. the stock fuse? Just in case the next diagnosis needs to involve that circuit. Gosh, I hate working in those cold conditions.

Garth
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I was very curious when you checked the correct PCM fuse if you still had the jumper powering the PCM. The next shot looked like you did disconnect the jumper and I am sure you did, but shit happens. Of course that would have shown the fuse good, when it was in fact blown.

inothome
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Most shops would of replaced the PCM first haha. Good Job on the diagnose.

prshardy
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A common sense repair. No need to get an expensive fuse box plus work to get this truck back on the road. Thanks, Ivan.

kastooMcFry
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Ivan, your getting quicker and quicker at finding the problem on certain vehicles. NICE Fix.

phillully
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“Bones. Can you save him?” “He’s dead Jim.”

bills
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Had the exact same issue with my 2005 RAM 5.7 hemi, watched this video several times went outside and fixed my truck after 3 months of trying to find the problem. Thanx

JWolf-br
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That was definitely the path of least resistance! Great diagnosis and fix Ivan!

blueskiesmobileauto
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These Dodge TIPMs are known to have problems. Had a 2009 Ram no start. Took to dealer and they knew what it was before even unloading from the trailer.

frankthomas
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Ivan is a master mechanic. Love his videos!!!!

andrewvillanueva
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Ivan, just another awesome fix. No parts required 👍

arthurfricchione
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Ivan great job as usual, i would have powered the circuit a little differently but im sure you considered other options and chose what worked best for you and the customer

anthonyiannone
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As much as I enjoy these videos, they fill me with dread. I drive an 01dodge truck. Thank you.

waitingaliens
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Great troubleshooting skills Ivan, you save your customers a lots of money I bet he is very thankful for this repair. Take care thanks 😊

josecondemarin