Synthetic vs Conventional Oil In Classic Cars

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It's pretty well established that synthetic engine oils offer some pretty distinct advantages over the conventional oils used in older engines. But, how compatible are they?
Here are the things that need to be considered when making the switch. What areas are going to give you trouble, and what are the quick, easy fixes to keep those expensive modern lubricants inside your engine where they belong.
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Great explanation Tony! As a 21 year certified Amsoil dealer, I couldn't have explained it any better myself. My poor '71 charger has a kinked up left quarter too. One of these days I'll get the old girl back in shape!

TonysHotRodGarage
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We sold Amsoil in the speedshop I worked In years ago. The Amsoil Rep told me they did a dyno test with regular oil vs Amsoil. The Amsoil made 4 horsepower more each time they tested. 4hp from just oil is kinda impressive.

daviddntait
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I ran full synthetic in my 1975 Pontiac Laurentian (basically a Catalina without AC that was sold in Canada) for all the years I used it as my daily. Never had any leak issues and that thing ran beautifully. I remember in particular one year when one of my neighbours, older guy than me, said "Oooh.... you're going to have a real time with that in the winter." Then when winter came, we had a really super-cold day that was -28°C (-18°F) and he was out there cranking and cranking his late 90s Ford Taurus and I got out and started up the old Laurentian on the first turn of the key. Eventually, the car had to be laid to rest after 31 years of active service to three owners, me being the last (it out-lived the first two), but the engine lived on in a 1980s shorty van that's still on the road today. The guy that rebuilt it said the engine was the most pristine thing he'd ever seen inside.

Dakiraun
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That's how I look at it, keeps the underside lubricated and rust free on my old 88 Blazer. She has over 644, 000 miles on the original engine and transmission.

silent
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This is probably my favorite car channel here on YT.... I am more of a Chevy guy, but have a huge passion for ALL muscle cars👍🇺🇸.... I have found that every bit of information that Tony gives to be absolutely 100% true, having been down those roads myself at some point, and having to figure stuff out and get information when needed... I really appreciate Tony for keeping the spirit alive, and preserving this piece of Americana that has had such a great influence on so many people in this country and around the world 👍🇺🇸👍🇺🇸

Peenurpool
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Use to engineer industrial lube systems and had to go through a few tribology courses. Despite the results you get - it still comes down to base oils + additives. This is why changing oil types can be more problematic even with a good oil change interval. The incompatibility of some additives, or base oils not mixing...all can create more problems than solutions. A good case it to look at say Penzoil platinum (natural gas base) vs another synthetic with crude base. DO NOT interchange those, commit to one. If you plan on transitioning - do the oil change +filter. And then do a relatively short change interval there after to commit to the new oil type.

The statement on "no zinc additives" is not true with higher end "full synthetics" and actually another additive that will takes the place of zinc is Molybdenum disulfide. MoS2 is used in industrial greases among other high pressure anti-wear applications. If you want the straight stuff for automotive use you can get liquimoly MoS2 additive. But with a full synthetics you really don't need it, as its usually already there.

Project farm is a good YT channel for seeing the oil additive contents and results of various brands.

What makes the synthetics "so good" at lubricating is their film retention regardless of viscosity. Their viscosity curves are also much more consistent (even when "burned" and after the rated life). Synthetics are superior at this by design.

frjhracing
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honestly, out of all the cars you own, the charger feels/looks like your signature car
like the car people think you drive when they see you

THExWASP
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I used Lucas classic car oil (with zinc) in my 1973 Mach 1. Did a ton of research, and I decided that was the best option. I found that adding the zinc to the oil was not equal to getting the zinc already in the oil.

GJM
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I’ve run synthetic for decades now, my engines are rarely oil tight, and you are right, not so much drips but a film, not a problem. I started running synthetic when I raced the car, and never stopped. The car still has insane rear gears, and I often take highway cruises, cruising at 5K, it’s like the onboard soundtrack from a Trans Am car. Back in the distant past, all the serious guys ran high 4’s to low 5’s in their cars.

jamesblair
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Glad you defined old as pre 70's in the context of this. People today think old is anything in the 90s! and earlier. So much misunderstanding happens with relative terminology. I see people recommending mineral 20w50 oils for 90s GM's 🤦‍♂️even though GM have been running 5w30 synthetic since the 80's when roller cams came into play.

car_ventures
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Its certainly better for cold weather as well. Flows better for those cold starts

tabbott
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I like listening to people that know what they're talking about. You, my friend, are one of those people.

bobbyking
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This is all valuable info. I for one, had not considered the cast ring issue. That's very good to know. I do know(from a very bad experience 25 years ago) that using any kind of additive like DURA LUBE, in any kind of newly built engine, the rings will never seat correctly. For the similar reason you mentioned. That stuff bonds to metal. Rings included lol. I had a brand new 97 Pontiac GP GTP that I thought throwing in some dura lube was a great idea. That poor engine burnt oil for a very long time, because the rings never seated correctly because of the additive. I'll never use any additives, or synthetics in a new engine again.

However I do like using synthetics. You can run synthetic oil in an engine for 200k, with regular oil changes, and tear the engine down, and it'll look clean as the day it was built. Synthetics won't varnish and stain like conventional oils do. Lots of detergents. Walmart Super Tech full synthetic is just as good as any big brand name oil, and it costs almost the same as any other conventional oil. I'll never go 10, 000 miles on an oil change. I still stick with 3000 period.

boosted
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Tony I have the exact same wheels and tires on my old Chevy! I've been runnin Amsoil in everything I own, my 68 Impala, lawn mower, chain saw, compressor, weed wacker, etc. for the last fifteen years. They make synthetic oil with zinc already in it for our old classics.

ShadeTreeKennyT
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I totally agree! Years ago I bought a used Harley Sportster 1200, changed the oil and put in a synthetic of the same weight to lengthen the engine life. It started sweating oil, steadilym the next day. I replaced with Harley dealer no leaks.

johnnieguitar
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I try to tell every one of my car guys about your channel because you are literally a well of knowledge that needs to be heard

Max-mexq
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Been using AmsOil since 1977, no problems or issues with any of my engines. They love it.
Both my late model Mopars use 5W-20 synthetic oil and neither of them leak or even seep a drop of oil. 75W-90 or 75W-140 in both cars('12 Challenger R/T M6 trans and '14 Chrysler 300C, both use 5.7 hemi engines)
Our 1952 Jaguar XK120 coupe also uses AmsOil 20W-50 Z-Rod engine oil, runs cooler and has better oil pressure. All the old school Jag lovers considered it a sacrilege if I didn't use Castrol 30 or 40W straight weight dinosaur oil, but too bad. This engine also loves the good oil, and it has a good rust inhibitor in it, as it doesn't get driven much except in winter months. The gearbox was not happy with 30W synthetic oil, so put 1 qt. 30W dino oil with 1 pint of Lucas oil additive, shifts much better as synchros have some friction now to work. Rear diff has 75W-90 synthetic in it, leaks some out of pinion seal but that tells me it has oil in it.
My $0.02! Thanks for a good video!

MM_in_Havasu
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I totally agree about the gaskets and synthetic oil. I found out for myself when I switched back to conventional oil - my leaks stopped. When rebuilding an engine make sure you plan ahead for synthetic oil if you want the benefits.

ShaneRayXRB
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I build modern German engines, and we use conventional for first start, then drain, new filter, then conventional again for a couple hundred miles of ABUSE, then we switch to synthetic liqui moly or royal purple

ButtKickersReviews
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I loved the 66-67 Chargers. Probably for the same reason I loved the 65-70 fastback Mustangs. It's just a great look.

rdpig