Ammeter or Voltmeter gauge? I'll explain which one I use and why

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Hello everyone, so I ran into alternator issues at raceweek 2.0 in 2020 using the wrong gauge. It didn't tell me I was having charging system issues at 7 am in the morning when it was dark out. So I made a change and see what gauge I went to.

Voltage Gauge Examples:

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Any serious DC circuit monitoring involves ammeters. Ammeters will provide way more diagnostic real time info than a simple voltmeter if you know what it’s telling you. If your alternator failed and ammeter was centered, didn’t show a discharge, it was wired incorrectly or had been by-passed. Voltmeter is no more useful than an idiot light in this application. Nothing wrong with how the original Chrysler charging system as it was designed. Problems start with abuse and misplaced added loads at the battery, overloading the ammeter and related circuit/connections and defeating the designed purpose of ammeter to register only battery charge/discharge status.

roadrunnergtx
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Thanks for the important information 👍🏽 I will install a voltmeter from whawhat you have said makes total sense 👍🏽👌🏽

billrau
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I've ALWAYS used a voltmeter for a very long time, sometimes in conjunction with the amp gauge or 'ammeter'. The ammeter is very old tech and simple for mfr's to make and install. I would definitely get rid of those early Chrysler direct feed amp gauges that are in series with the charge wire.

You can get WAY more info from a voltage gauge than the amp gauge. It tells you the status of the battery AND the alternator. If it goes below around 12.6v, the alternator isn't charging. 14.3-14.5 should be the 'charged' state voltage. If the voltage on the gauge is high (14.2-14.6) the alternator output current is low. If the voltmeter reads low 12.8-13.2, the alternator output is high and is 'charging' the battery instead of 'maintaining' the electrical system draw. Just remember they're inverse of each other. Volts HIGH = Amps LOW and Volts LOW = Amps HIGH. (functioning alternator) If the voltage ever gets below 12.6 or so your alternator isn't working, but that's pretty easy to see.

vincemajestyk
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I just bought a 20 yr old garden tractor, MTD lawnflite 604 and its got an ammeter on it, old and dirty looking and im here to learn what it does . Seems 2 wires pass behind it in a metal cover but arent actually wired to it.

JuiceBanger
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What did you do with the two wires that were attached to the ammeter?

acardiac
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You will also see if you are charging or losing charge

mlrable
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Got an alt. that puts out more than average ammeter reads. Common for diesel engine alternators actually. Mines 135amp and I may go to 150 in the future. My big truck is 200amp for that matter. Anyway.... is there a way to purposefully miss match a shunt and ammeter and do the math in your head. use a typical 60amp ammeter with a shunt that would result in a meter that always shows off by a third.... so If I am showing 60 im in big trouble cause that would be 180amp out of a 135amp alt. in real life. If I am showing then in real life Im at 90amp and that is fine if I'm winching and bumped my idle up to get that 90amp. etc etc.

Doing so would possibly lower cost for this poh manz build... the ammeters that can read up to 150 are stupid expensive even before you buy the shunt. (or hall effect sensor)

so with that in mind.... that would work... what shunt for 60amp ammeter knowing I will be off by a factor of three?
so with that in mind.... that would work... what shunt for 30amp ammeter knowing I will be off by a factor of five?

coachgeo
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Why do some nowadays think that ammeters are dangerous?

jamesbosworth