Suit Alterations: What a Tailor Can (& Can't) Do

#SuitAlterations #Tailoring #NotSponsored

GUIDES YOU DON'T WANT TO MISS:

VIDEO CREDITS:
-Original article: Dr. Christopher Lee
- Script: Ana Liza Banaynal & Preston Schlueter
- Camera: Chris Dummer
- Editing: Jonathan Oster

SHOP THE VIDEO:
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Gentleman's Gazette
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You're at a thrift shop and see a vintage Armani suit you love, but the shoulders are too wide. Should you buy it? In situations like these, the difference between getting a steal and wasting your money depends on whether your tailor can complete the required alterations to make the item fit you well. Before pulling the trigger on something that needs considerable alteration, check out our list of things a tailor can and cannot do to get a menswear garment to fit.

0:00 Introduction
01:08 How many sizes larger or smaller can you go?
03:49 Changing the Width of Shoulders - NO
04:15 Changing the Pad Level of Shoulders - MAYBE
05:36 Changing the Collar - MAYBE
06:31 Narrowing, Lengthening and Shortening Sleeves - YES
08:50 Putting on Buttons - YES
09:50 Fixing Shoulder Divots - MAYBE
10:42 Changing the Button Profile - NO
11:30 Changing the Lapels - MOSTLY NO
13:21 Reshaping the Quarters of a Jacket - NO
14:08 Shortening the Jacket - MAYBE
14:42 Changing the Vent Openings on the Back - MAYBE
15:34 Hems, Cuffs and Leg Length on Pants - YES
16:25 Tapering and Decreasing Leg Width - YES
16:52 Adding to and Subtracting from the Waist - YES

18:44 Outfit Rundown

There are many different alterations that are possible when you examine the components of a suit. Understanding the anatomy of a pair of pants or a tailored jacket will also make you aware of what can and cannot be done. Study the garments you own--look at the seams for allowances, check for previous work, and get a sense of its structure. Then weigh the advice above against your love for the item. You can then decide whether it's something you are willing to invest in or if you would just prefer to buy something new (or vintage!).

Are there any alterations that we've missed? Have you tried any of these? Share it with us in the comment section!

[phillipmoodie]

Preston, back in the 1960s, when I was your age, and had my first Sales job in the emerging Computer Industry IBM and it's major competition, demanded that their Sales executives dressed to "Mirror" the dress style of the Chairman and CEO of the World largest Corporations, because in those times that's where both the evaluations and decisions were made.

I could not afford to buy the number of suits required to create a credible wardrobe so I restricted my purchases to the End of Season sales, which meant that the basic alterations were not bundled into the purchase price, so I used to visit a CBD based Old-school Tailor, who one day spent twenty minutes explaining both how the retail suit sector operated and the showing me in great detail what he could alter. He pointed out to me that the ideal purchase for me was to look for premium brand/quality suits, particularly overseas imports, that were often cleared at a 50 percent discount, because the major Department Stores only carried minimum stock levels of premium brand suits. He also pointed out that often the suits discounted at End of Season sales, were often early releases of forthcoming fashion styles, which. wouldn't date as quickly as most of the suits on sale that were being cleared in volume.

Using that knowledge I have spent the last 50 years wearing perfectly fitting suits of the same quality as those worn by the Prime Minister of Australia and the CEO's of the Top 20 Global Corporations, on a junior Salesman's salary. But I soon got good promotions by following the old adage ---- "Dress for the job you want, not the job you have".

I wrote this lengthy comment, because I thought your very detailed presentation may benefit some young executives, in the same way that a very similar explaination given to me by a professional Tailor fifty years ago helped me to obtain the very highest level jobs in the World, in the Computer Industry and in the now rapidly changing Telecommunications industry. Phil.

[lubricatedthimble]

Preston the weapon is back at it again.

[BasedPeter]

God-tier pick using David Byrne’s Big Suit

[BaneBalt]

I’ve recently gotten into suits, I went into a thrift store with my girlfriend and came across a black Giorgio Armani jacket that fit pretty large. I looked up the average price of Armani jackets and looked at the price tag of $25, I thought it was a steal. It was in fantastic condition. I assumed I could just get it tailored, but it’s 4 inches too long. Altering it, if possible, would throw off the jackets balance.

[krunoslavkovacec]

Well, I can't stop watching these amazing videos.
Keep going, gentlemen!

[desmondding]

This video is long overdue and much needed. Good work, guys.

[richardolah]

I bought a lovely vintage double breasted chalk stripe suit last year but the jacket was one size to big. My tailor took the jacket in to fit my torso better and also took the shoulders in. Shoulders can definitely be tailored if you have a good tailor, you just have to work out if it’s worth it due to the cost. In my case the suit cost 30 pound so I thought it was.

[ravipeiris]

Love ❤️ subjects like these. The dress shirt, tie and pocket square that Preston is wearing is amazing!

[lewiszolna]

As always chaps, great video! This has been ever so helpful!

[iramgonzalez]

Well I guess this can be called early, if so what a delight to see this amazing content on time.

[johanjohansen]

I have longed for this video! And as always I am very satisfied with the amazing content you produce.

[nikolastepanoski]

Ok guys, Tailor Nick here…first of all, respect for the channel …

It is VERY IMPORTANT someone to inform especially young people today about I would say kinda fashion rules invented and accepted by people thru time even though fashion doesn’t have rules, styles could be…but it’s a choice, personal preference.
I’ve checked the comments here and I realized that people like to talk about styles more than how the suit fits… and that’s a mistake.
As Tailors we have to know anatomy meaning some CUT is simply NOT made for everybody, people are different…also very important - people are not like the mannequins, people have to move so the garment as well.

The most important is the FIT, nice expensive fabric is a maybe here…it would be nice if everybody can afford a real custom bespoke suit….
Btw, custom doesn’t mean BESPOKE, it’s kinda at least $5000 difference…these days custom means made to measure, like you can choose your colors etc.
This channel is important to share info and teach and remind people that is good to be dressed well because lately many people doesn’t care.

Last advice - Tailors usually doesn’t have to much time for chatting, so the best way is GO TO YOUR TAILOR and see your options, you’ll have your fitting for your suit and you’ll what is possible to be altered, is it wise to be done or not etc…
I do advise my customers to come to see me even before buying a suit, ..my advice is free and we’ll have less spending money on alterations.
So, learn your CUT, build your personal Style slowly and use your Tailor to pull out the best of you.

Wishing you all here all the best in the future in your lifetime journey.

Tailor Nick - Top Tailors USA

[orafa.el_]

3:20 I once bought a pair of very nice unhemmed trousers, but they were medium rise, and my personal style is high rise, just as said by Preston. As there was a lot of fabric left at the bottom, I asked a seamstress to make cuffs and, with the remaining fabric, increase the crotch of the trousers without altering the waist. It turned out very good. If you want to do like so, I suggest you choose a good and experienced seamstress, but preferably a tailor, and it will work fine. But keep in mind that it will cost you time and money.

[thelegendofdarius]

For sure this channel deserves like a millions of subscribers

[fedezzefelbudapestet]

Thank god my tailor was a bespoke tailor (Now too old, doesn't make them anymore, but makes alternations) and whatever I need changed in garments, he can make anything. And he is good at it. I messed with the shoulders, and everything was perfect. The finished look was perfect. And it was cheap.

[ardentdfender]

I truly find these videos fascinating as someone who enjoys classic men’s style, dressing well and good fashion. But I’ll also be honest in that I had no idea that custom trousers had extra fabric in the waistline so that they could be stretched out an extra 2-3 Inches. No idea! I have to look into this further. As well ask my tailor about this.

[nicorusso]

Great content! I just graduated from college and am looking to buy a suit. This video could not have come at a better time@

[scottcatchot]

you guys are helping me learn a lot, rebuiding my wardrobe and image

[aronhegedus]

Very nice video, answered all my questions!

[SteveOnTheEastCoast]

This was a really instructive video.
I'll share it with my son as well 👍🏾