Lets put this Cylinder Head Gasket On. But I got a question. 3.6 Pentastar Right side Bank 2 Timing

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I always put the head gasket on bare. Been doing it that way for 16 years now as a ford technician and have never had any issues.

conservativejakemills
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Head gaskets are supposed to go on bare in most cases

ryantexada
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I put more faith in the prep work than I do spray. Sometimes it's sticky enough to hold it in place though if needed

jameslewis
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I always put MLS on bare, the old school graphite single layer always gets a coat of copper spray on both sides. And i 100% agree on cleaning those bolt holes. For what its worth, i put a drop of oil on the bolt threads and under the bolt head to keep the torque consistent.

igoturparts
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I always run a tape, or thread chaser through the bolt holes to clean any debris out of the threads, I coat the threads on the bolts in oil, get a more accurate torque reading that way

richardfoster
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After sucking out any liquid from those head bolt holes, I take the extra step of spraying in a little brake cleaner and then blow it back out with shop air (just be careful, that crap can sting😁)
I know it's probably overkill, but I like knowing that the only thing in there is exactly what I want to be in there🙂
Oh, bare dry head gasket. I've never seen a 3.6 blow a head gasket as yet. But I imagine with the blowers and turbo kits available now🤔 it's just a matter of time😎

tracewallace
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I tend to use the copper spray sealer when the head blew from overheating. Been bit in the butt a few times going dry on those. Never had issues with it.

sienile
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Used to use copper spray on the head gasket but since I started working for the dealer been putting on the gaskets bare some require silicone on certain areas according to the manufacture repair manual. Also for the head bolts if they are torque-to-yield I replace them and also soak them in oil before installation

harborareatech
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I am 21, I've built a sr20det and a m44, both times I just made sure the surface was dry and contaminate free. Both times fresh from the machine shop, both run great!

kvinson
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I learned from a production engine rebuilder for lexus in 1994 to use hylomar on the head gaskets. Have not had a comeback since i started using it. Hylomar is in the head gasket spray that says good for 500f..
In high horse power MLS gaskets i take the rivets out. Spray hylomar on the individual layers of the MLS gasket the reassemble. I keep a handfull of aircraft rivets to replace the rivets

waynep
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I always use the gasket spary as an extra layer of insurance, I'm hell too 100 about proper preparation but I still use it anyway. Haven't had not even one to fail me yet. Head gaskets are already time consuming so might as well take extra measures to insurance your conscious that's it's done right. Cuz IM NOT LOSSING IN MY LABOR NO WAY NO HOW. 💪🏿✊🏿💪🏿✊🏿

jarriouscoleman
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I do not use any sort of spinning wheels on my head surfaces like a wiz wheel or even the roloc I always use either a utility knife blade a carbide scraper very gently takes a while but never had issues using the others mentioned removes material of block.

charlesnostrand
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Bare gasket, used to use copper when working at different shop. But nothing now. Took a felpro sealing class and instructor said not to used a copper spray. Just good prep work and do it to manufacture specs. Including head bolts. But I knew about head bolts when I was in school

jesselyons
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As long as both surfaces are clean and debris free I’ve never had an issue with raw dog’n it.

karl
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Always bare, never used a spray or other similar product and never had a come back or other problem, currently head mechanic at work with 21 years experience..

martinroycroft
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Cylinder head gaskets on the semis I work on are metal, small bit of rubber inlay around coolant and oil ports. We put them on dry. Even the older graphite gaskets go on dry. But I have used copper coat on my own as needed.

vzcar
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Bare dry install is all I’ve ever done. a cool trick I learned on YT was cutting 4 of the old bolts heads off and making a flat headed screwdriver notch on the top. Therefore useful as alignment rods on all four corners when dropping the heads back on. For perfect alignment indeed one drop no question. Back the bolts with the flat head then magnet out. Ready to race. My only comeback from a head job was a GM 3.4, years ago that returned with a broken in half cam. Manufacturing defect of cam alignment was always known risk.

dustinschloesser
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If you're a mechanic for Fiat, then you have an endless supply of video content.

markpowers
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If you're doing this at home and do not have air compressor use the shop towels the blue ones and spray brake cleaner inside holding a rag over the whole to catch any excess and then squeeze small little pieces of shop towel into the bolt-holes and the paper will absorb the remainder of the brake cleaner. Brake cleaner is good because it evaporates and dries out

jmquickfix
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I say adding a spray for example copper spray would be helpful for people who go to a race track or have a race car, because if the gasket blows it takes off the spray sealant and shows where the surface has to be shaved or resurfaced. But if it’s a regular maintenance you have a option.

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