How To Install Cylinder Heads on a Small Block Ford 302 | GT40 GT40P Heads ARP Bolts

How To Install Cylinder Heads on a Small Block Ford 302 | GT40 GT40P Heads ARP Bolts
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This is one of the biggest steps in your 302 budget build. The cylinder head installation is a thorough process and there are steps you must take to ensure proper cylinder head alignment and torque specifications. Begin with a clean work space. Make sure all parts are clean and you remain organized. Make sure you have a good set of cylinder head alignment dowels prior to installation. Install all four dowels and be certain that they are straight and properly seated into the engine block.
Get a good quality set of Felpro head gaskets and make sure they are free from defects and are straight. Lay the cylinder head gaskets onto the head dowels and apply a small amount of engine assembly lube to the dowels. Next, set the cylinder head carefully onto the dowels and provide even pressure on the heads to seat them onto the dowels.
Get your new head bolts and install the washers on the bolts so that the chamfered side is facing the bolt head. Apply the torque sealer onto the threads and hand tighten them into the heads. Next, set your torque wrench to 70 ft. lbs. and follow my torque sequence specification below.

[DaveAndGray]

I always use thread sealant on the lower bolts because they go into the water jackets. I also use a 3 step process for torque

[BobSmith-mcuq]

Good video.
Good idea to scrape the paint off the lower row of head bolt shoulders on the block.
After a few warmups, the paint will soften up & you will lose some of your bolt torque, speaking from experience.

[keasy]

Not sure if you did it or not, but the lower head bolts on SBF engines go into the water jackets, therefore you should use thread sealer on the lower head bolts to prevent any water leaks. I personally like the Permatex brand.

[The_david_gavin]

You should torque all the Head bolts, or any bolt sequences in their correct sequence in two to three sets. One round up to either 1/2 the torque or 1/3. Final or third torque can then be performed. If you torque one bolt all the way to 70 ft. lbs., when you torque down the rest in the same manner, I can guarantee when you are done with the sequence, #1 will be loose. Tighten them all equally, you get an equal and more exact reading, and you done run the risk of stripping the threads in your block or worse, breaking a bolt off in the block.

[rongamblin]

Thanks for the good video and information. I am about to do a rebuild on my 1969 Ford Falcon with a 302. With the high quality on the market and manufacturers you can trust with quality and performance parts my job now will be a good deal easier than it would have been in times past. Us old timers from the 60's appreciate you and our old ways. Thanks and Keep the Faith.

[neotins]

Hello, I´m from Brazil and I have a Ford Landau 1981 with a small block 302 this car is a galaxie´s brother, your vídeos are so nice, I´m telling my friends about your channel, thank you for your time.

[Archifx]

Hey. Thanks Neo for the feedback. Glad I can help. I have a ton of videos coming up! Thanks for watching.

[reeferaddickt]

Really appreciate the time you put into these videos. You're slow, clear, and precise. It makes it very easy to follow what you're doing. Even for a novice like me. thanks again

[jabmolou]

I had a 302 in my 67 jeep. Loved it to the point that I got early this year one from a junk yard and now rebuilding.

[gzuesbuildz]

Dont you have to go from like 35 then 50 then at last 70 and work your way up to it instead of tightening one whole bolt all at once??? Ive always heard/done it that way.

[illyadope]

Not a single dislike on this video. Very informative and excellent audio!

[mikedifeo]

Looks great. Brought back some memories when I rebuilt my Chevy 396 for my '69 Chevelle.
I miss those days and at 65 they ain't coming back. Time for the new bucks lik eyou to take over.

[scottwehrman]

Great job on video and the step by step instructions.
Something that might help make your life easier, when screwing in those 10 head bolts before torquing them down would be to use a Dewalt cordless drill with the torque release (or a regular cordless drill) would work to. But instead of the time consuming wracheted of each bolt by hand. Just quickly spin them down with the drill, then use the torque wrench to finish.

[ja]

It helps to put the dowels in the freezer for about 15 minutes or so. It’ll shrink them make it easier to install.

[Archifx]

Thanks a bunch. Always appreciate your feedback. Ill keep the build vids coming!

[gregwalton]

Interesting video, you might want to stand on the engine stand while torqueing the bolts, keeps it from moving on, you better control! Some of the others noted the use of thread sealer on lower bolts, and going in increments to the final torque value. Learn as you go!

[RiggingDoctor]

Very informative!
My ‘83 Bronco is missing. When going up a hill, one intake valve seems to get stuck open because the intake vacuum drops hard. If the motor doesn’t stall, the vacuum goes back to normal. Thankfully there is no backfire, but it is still a problem.
I think I’m looking at pulling the head to service the valve on my 302.

[markwoten]

Should have made the comment of ensuring the cooling holes are towards the rear of the block. If you install the gasket with majority of coolant holes to the front of the block will cause overheating.

[kloofyroland]

I just happen to view your video since I'm considering upgrading my 302 heads and I remember reading stuff in your vid saying to torque to 70 ft/lbs in 3 steps. I hope you did the 2 steps prior to the 70, hehehe

[davemay]

Thank you. I have not rebuilt an engine in 30 years. I am thinking of doing one with my son. We are leaning toward a 351W for a bronco.