Understanding Types of Bits and How They Work

The amount of different types of bits available is immense. Snaffle bits, curb bits, leverage bits. Mullen mouths, french links, high ports, low ports…

Each style has a purpose (not that I believe all are useful or even ethical). There is no one bit that is right for every horse.

To make a good bit choice for your horse I believe it is important to first understand how different styles of bits work and how to choose the correct size. From there, you can learn to listen to your horse and they will help you find a good size.

In this video, we will look at many types of bits, and talk about their shapes, materials, and sizing.

Enjoy!

[elizabethmarquart-qc]

This is an absolutely fabulous video Callie. I have been riding in a pellham for many years and nobody has ever explained how the bit works. I had no idea that the rains on the lower portion were creating leverage while the other set of reigns were pulling back in a different type of action. Thank you so much for going into such detail on videos like this it really helps us all learn so much.

[frankiedebeer]

Great explanation and really needed this! I love the hunny in the back making their appearance 😂❤

[jackiewood]

Love the horse in the background super cute!

[KashTagg]

11 minutes ago, I didn't even know horse bits were a thing. Now I know a fair amount about horse bits

[ariellewilson]

Great information. Every horse is different and every bit is different. People will say curb bits are severe while snaffle bits are mild, and, while it's fine to use those words, it's mostly important of how severe or mild of how the rider is using a bit. I'm going to get disagreements on this, but if anyone knows the tom thumb bit, it's actually for neck reining, including leg cues, and yes leg cues are as important as rein cues. So if you see someone riding a horse in that kind of bit, don't assume it's hurting their horse's mouth unless they aren't using it correctly, which can go for any bit.

Riding without a bit is fine, too. Riding with a bit or no bit is a choice, including a preference, as long as it fits the horse nicely. Riding with a halter is also okay. There are bits out there that should stay out of any mouth of a horse like the ones with spikes on the mouth piece and yes it's an actual bit, so please don't use that one no matter how soft your hands are.

We can't blame all equipment, like bits, depending on what kind it is, and say all bits are bad all because someone was either not used them properly or they're using a bit that should be illegal.

I don't care if you prefer no bit or bit, we all have a preference, and we should only listen to the people who know what they are talking about instead of listening to those who spread false information.

Plus, for those who say all bits are metal, they do have rubber, plastic, and leather bits out there.

[SALIM]

I admire you and I hope one day I will learn to ride a horse from you

[jillrhodry]

Great info! - is there a resource link for bitless bridles?

[chivasmom]

This is a good basic bit information video. Would be good to add a next level, as so many bits were not shown. In particular, double jointed bits, straight bits, western curbs, gaited horse bits, driving bits, and gag bits. The straight bits are better for horses with low palates, to avoid the action of a snaffle bit. Double jointed bits are IMO a much better option, and I use them on every horse I have had for the last 10 years or so. Then there are the very severe bits, double twisted wire, with and without shanks, and long shank "gaited" horse bits. More emphasis on using the mildest bits first, and not using, for instance, a "gaited horse bit" just because the horse is gaited. There are so many people that think a western horse has to be ridden in a bit curb bit, when really that much pressure on the horse is rarely needed, and never by beginner riders.

[BlueWhale]

Super helpful, thank you. What bits are typically harmful on a horses mouth?

[lwb]

I was always curious why the horse I ride uses a snaffel bit. He seems to like it, so it must be what works for him.

[frankiebonifacio]

a great missed plot opportunity: Ayra re-bonds with Nymeria and leads the pack north

[dirksimmang]

never never stat a horse in a bit.... Properly fitting Hackamore ...first ...3 too 4 years ...then maybe a bit...and then the bit has to be a Missing link snapple bit

[ssmith]

Does anyone have information on or experience with the Australian PeeWee bit?

[ssmith]

Does anyone have experience with the Australian PeeWee bit?

[lindab]

I'm really sad to see that you, who are reaching such a large number of horse people through your videos, have not bothered to update your knowledge on bits. Spreading misinformation like this can be so harmful.

Thicker bits being milder is a MYTH, and was debunked decades ago. Considering horse mouths weren't designed to have any bit in them at all, there really isn't much room in there, and a thick bit will put so much constant pressure on all the surrounding tissue. Thinner bits are milder, because they actually fit inside the horse's mouth.

It's also a really old myth that the bit should be sticking out a little on each side of the horse's mouth. I have no idea why this still isn't general knowledge, and why so many riders still cling to these old beliefs. If a snaffle is sticking out of the horse's mouth, it's too long. It should be snug. It's only too short if part of the rings end up inside the horse's mouth and he's not able to close his mouth around it. No matter how many joints it has, it should be so short that it stays straight in the horse's mouth, and you should not be able to pull it back and forth. Too long bits can be very harmful, as a single jointed bit will then get a nutcracker effect, and a double (or more) jointed bit will have the risk of having an entire section of the bit pulled to the outside of the horse's mouth, and then end up pinching him with one of the joints. Remember that the bit is there to give signals, not to largely be moved around inside and outside of the mouth, or to hurt your horse. Also, with a bit too long, you will have to make the cheek pieces shorter for it to be stable, which will then put more pressure on both the mouth and the poll.

Leverage bits are different, they need to stick out a tiny bit, as they're meant to rotate, and a snug bit will then push and pull and rotate on the sides of the horse's mouth and nose. For this reason, though, it's recommended to only use non-jointed leverage bits (because, as I explained, larger bits will have more of a nutcracker effect and so on), and it should ALWAYS be used with a curb chain. This is crucial, because the chain prevents the bit from rotating too much. Without a chain, there aren't any limits to how much it can rotate, and the more it rotates, the more pressure there will be on the poll. The poll is a very sensitive area, and a leverage bit without a curb chain can put an extreme amount of pressure on it.

Stay informed, guys! And don't believe everything you hear just because it's coming from a well known, experienced horse person. When it comes to bits, far too many people still believe in what they were told when they started riding 50 years ago, and haven't bothered updating their knowledge. But this stuff matters!