Boiled Linseed Oil Vs 100% Pure Tung Oil After 5 Years

On paper, Tung oil seems to be the obvious choice over linseed oil. Just the idea that linseed oil has a more amber hue alone, detracts people like me from wanting to use it. In this video I compare the look of each oil on the same wood project, clipboards made from some of my favorite hardwoods, and compare the two finished clipboards visually after they are cured and 5 years after use.

A few notes about the video:

While I did not show it in the video, I applied three coats of Pure Tung Oil. The first coat I diluted 1:1 with mineral spirits. The second coat was 2 parts Tung oil to 1 part mineral spirits. And the third coat was Pure Tung Oil undiluted.

I only applied one coat of Boiled Linseed Oil which may be the reason why it didn't live up to the amber hue hype. Three coats are recommended for the oil I used. I did it differently and the results weren't earth shattering. You may have different results - you are going to have to determine your own path, but I believe in you.

[VanCamelCat]

Mister, your beautiful words have touched my heart. Thank you for that.
(except for the masks during the pandemic thing. I have no idea which side of that debate you were on. Though, I also don't care. You are definitely – not boring 🙂).
Thanks for the woodworking too 😉

P.S. I hope things improve for me too, and that things do indeed get better. Damn that metaphorical scratch 🤨

[chrissessions]

"The world is as beautiful as you let it be." I appreciated the uplifting philosophical commentary!

[DanClarkNewYork]

I loved this: "Wood finishes are like people. We should want people to succeed, not fail."

[donrad]

I have been using pure tung and linseed oil for over 50 years. The old cans of linseed used to have instructions for applying the finish. First you apply the un-thinned oil and keep applying as the oil soaks into the wood, keeping the surface wet for about 15 minutes. Then wipe the surface dry and let it sit for about an hour. Finally, repeat the above process, but also sand the wood with fine sandpaper while the oil is wet.
Let it dry 24 hours before use.
Apply wax now and then for added protection and shine.
This finish, in my opinion, is best used for furniture that does not receive much wear and tear. Like a dresser in a bedroom. Alcoholic beverages can leave circle stains. Desktops will not do well unless sanded down and refinished yearly. Skin oil and dirt will mix with the tung and linseed oil finish and leave dark stains.
These oils are excellent for cutting boards because they are non-toxic food safe. Re-apply when the surface looks dull.
Some people like the look of a table-top that shows stains, marks, and patina from the years of use by a family. Only an oil finish lends itself to this natural beauty.
DO NOT LEAVE OILY RAGS IN A PILE BECAUSE THEY CAN AND WILL SELF-COMBUST AND START FIRES.

[jamesbarros]

Came for the finishes, stayed for the poetry and life advice.

[saityavuz]

I really liked the way you ended things. Thank you for sharing!

[TroyD-vobz]

A favorite finish of mine that came from Sam Maloof, is One part boiled linseed oil one part paint thinner and then one part either spar varnish or urethane depending on how durable you want things. Typically I build up about three coats or so and then finish off with some beeswax. It's a very beautiful, inviting finish and it tends to yellow over time and develops a beautiful patina. Used it on several of my own rocking chairs, as well as some other projects. I do agree that boiled linseed oil tends to yellow over time, but that's also part of the attraction for me. For a very quick finish I like to use watco oil, followed by a coat of Matt Polycrylic finish. The Matt Vanish hides a world of sins, and provides for a greater degree of protection than just oil. And I totally agree you need to ask yourself what it is you're finishing and what kind of use will it receive. I still really love an oil finish as there's a definite "look" from something that penetrates into the wood as opposed to sits on top of it. That's why I like the combination of Watco and the polycrylic . Just my own $0.02. from my 53 years as a professional woodworker.

[taylorsessions]

This is really neat to see, thank you for sharing! I followed the instructions from your video +/-5 years ago on a dresser that i was refinishing. The dresser later became the kid's main dresser and a large fish tank placed on top. There are layers of hard water over the finish now, but that pine has lasted years of abuse and I believe it would have at least warped (if not rotted) if it weren't for the process you taught of applying the tung oil.

I also appreciate the application of the principle demonstrated 😁 wood finishing is not a one-size-fits-all scenario. Neither are people. That's thought provoking. Well said.

[rmar]

That curly maple on the tung oil board looks amazing.

[kfelix]

I've used both, I have some custom tables and a desk made out of strips of mesquite. I rub it down with BLO and it looks good.

[oxylepy]

The one I have, and likely will always continue, to want to see is amber melted into an oil. I've always wondered how it would look, if it would fill grain, etc. Such a cool concept

[daw]

The linseed oil isnt boiled. Its chemically treated to try to imitate what boiling would do.

[halleyorion]

I have done similar experiments with boiled linseed oil and pure tung oil (although only over a couple months, not five years!) and I also have not found them that different. I have not yet noticed any differences in the way that they color the wood. The most obvious tell, to me, is that tung oil seems to leave a slightly more shiny finish that sits on top of the wood, whereas linseed oil completely soaks in and seems to be more matte (though they are both pretty matte). I prefer the smell of linseed oil, while I like the food-safe qualities of tung oil, so I use them both in different projects even though they are extremely similar — equally gorgeous!

[danicoleman]

I love the life lessons on this video.

[jasonyoutubeaccount]

I was under the impression that linseed oil would yellow over time, i cant see that here

[hangdogit]

I use Tung Oil on lots of wood projects like a Rosewood bowl and any fine hardwood projects.

But I’m not sure it is food safe.

The best finish I’ve found for cutting boards is called Walrus Oil.

Funny name but very practical.

Why? Because it is a combination of Beeswax and an oil — mineral oil I think.

Both are food safe and either one can be used on cutting boards.

BUT by combining the ingredients the result is the best of both worlds — and more durable than either!

Mineral Oil alone looks great but dries out and wax alone doesn’t give as much depth and rich appearance. So…Walrus Oil!

[vesnamilojevic]

Hi! Please let me know:What kind of product would you put on barrels ?
Barrels are going to be inside and use like restaurant tables?

[catherinesnow]

Under what circumstances would you suggest one select Linseed over Tung oil, for their project? Or… are you concluding that Tung Oil (100%) superior to Linseed when an oil finish is desired?

[timothyvanderschultzen]

I like the one with the oil on it best.

[greg]

Tung oil is superior in every way. To the point where I wont use BLO anymore. I love tung oil