How to Apply Pure Tung Oil to Wood (the right way)

Tutorial on how to use 100% pure tung oil wood finish the right way. See list of Tung Oils that are not 100% pure tung oil below. I have seen several videos showing how to do it the so many ways, most aren’t even done with pure tung oil and decided I better show how I do it.

Two notes I did not say in the video:
1 - I only dilute the second coat on very dense woods with high Janka Hardness ratings. On most domestic woods, I go straight to undiluted on the second coat (i.e. walnut, soft maple, cherry).
2 - After the piece has cured for about a week, I burnish it with abrasive pads, then you can leave it like that or wax it.

Now you can use the finish above without diluting it if you want to, to be green or nonhazardous (i.e. using it on a cutting board). If you want to dilute it with an alternative to mineral spirits use orange oil.

I have only heard of people doing this, I haven’t done it myself. So if you do this method please leave a comment below letting me know if you like it or prefer something else.

Many labels make it seem like you are getting pure tung oil (natural oil) when you are not (synthetic oil), some finishes say tung oil on the label and don’t even contain any tung oil in them. A general way to tell is if it smells like varnish, it is varnish. But if you haven’t smelled tung oil before it can be hard to know what the difference is. So for your convenience, here is a list of “tung oil” finishes that are not 100% pure tung oil.

Common brands of finish that are wiping varnish (not pure tung oil):
• Formby’s Tung Oil Finish
• Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
• Val-Oil
• Hope’s Tung Oil Varnish
• Gillespie Tung Oil
• Waterlox
• General Finishes’ Sealacell
• General Finishes’ Arm R Seal
• Daly’s ProFin
• Jasco Tung Oil
• Common brands of finish that are oil/varnish blends:
• Watco Danish Oil
• Deft Danish Oil
• Behlen Danish Oil
• Maloof Finish
• Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
• Minwax Tung Oil Finish
• Minwax Antique Oil Finish
• Velvit Oil
• Behlen Salad Bowl Finish
• Behlen Teak Oil
• Watco Teak Oil

[theoptimisticmetalhead]

You didn't have to go this hard on the music my guy. It is WILDLY good. Love it.

[joeidaho]

Pure tung oil actually will not go bad. No need to worry about that part. Linseed oil can go rancid but not tung oil. I think you're going way too fast with coats. Gotta let the tung oil cure....which can take up to a week, between coats. if you let it cure and truly harden between coats, you'll get some depth in the finish. if you just do coats each hour, you just end up with one well-absorbed coat...and that's it. The finish will have very very little thickness, in the end, as nothing hardened or cured between your so-called "coats".

[willerwin]

Heating up pure Tung oil will also help it penetrate and apply well; you don’t have to dilute it. Deeper penetration does little for protection, but it does make the grain pop a little more.

This is the “flood method, ” which is popular, but takes longer to cure, uses more oil, and can lead to leaching problems. I’ve had better results applying thin coats and buffing off all excess right away.

[joshkerr]

At risk of contradicting everyone else, I quite liked the background music. Great tutorial. Something I needed since I just picked up woodworking again after 12 years.

[markharris]

I have a slight hearing impairment and heard every word said. And that that was said was extremely helpful to a newbie like myself, thank you.

[Nick-qnnf]

Instructions on my 100% tung oil say a different process. You applied, wiped off, waited an hour & re-applied. Mine say apply, wait an hour, wipe off, re-apply 12 hours later.

[joshuaparr]

Phenomenal video, very well made and helpful. The music was a nice touch. Thanks for sharing the knowledge man, now I can finish my projects with confidence from experience which I did not earn

[captaincoyote]

Unlike some of my fellow actually enjoyed the music you attached to your video. I found it both informative AND relaxing! As a “Type A” recently retired federal wildlife law enforcement officer, and prior to that a career Navy Officer, relaxing is now paramount —and not always easily achieved. As an obviously amateur woodworker, I especially appreciated your attached “pseudo / wannabe “pure” tung oil list! Incidentally, I saw on another video you produced, you mentioned photographing the Organ Mountains. Woo-hooo! I’m a NMSU alumni....spent a significant part of my youth in Alamogordo, ElPaso, and Las Cruces. My daughter earned her Masters and teaching certificate there....and now teaches high school biology in ‘Cruces! Back to the video and its value in watching? Bravo-Zulu, job well done, amigo!

[gamadmex]

Very informative. I've never used tung oil before, so this is very helpful.

[scooby]

An alternate method of air evacuation I found is to drop in glass marbles until you are close to the top before squeezing it and sealing.

[farmalmta]

Very good instructions, although I suggest for very tight grained hardwoods that a 1:1:1 tung oil:turpentine:mineral spirits be used for the first coat, then proceed as you did here. Japan Drier added sparingly will speed tung oil curing for all coats. Add a small quantity of pine tar (sourced from equine suppliers) to enhance anti-microbial properties. Note that a distinct pine smell will be temporarily noticeable from the finished piece, and it can slightly darken the finish, so test before applying.

[magicdaveable]

I use limonene (orange oil) which is technically "citrus rind oil." i cut pure tung oil 1:1 for general purpose first coat but not always. Closed pore wood such as White Oak needs a more absorbent first coat. A tung oil finish on the solid body guitars I build works very well tung oil takes dyes too.

[Feldspar__]

You can also put water in the bottle to remove the air at the top. It will sink. Enjoyed the second song. Speaks to the true nature of how women approach relationships.

[toneeclark]

Excellent presentation.
Thanks.
Enjoyable soundtrack and great info. 👍🏾👍🏾
(I love Purple Heart)

[xiaobai]

Interesting.. this is also how you do an oil painting, starting with thinned out coats/layers, making them thicker and thicker, with less and less solvent and more and more oil. Though it has nothing to do with wood grain or soaking in since it is painted on canvas or non-absorbent, but rough surfaces. It has more to do with preventing cracking and even flaking with age.

[dogscandies]

Hi I'm just wondering in your experience with tung oil, will it be durable enough to be used for outdoor projects?

[gerbendenheeten]

I want to apply it on chopsticks that I painted, I used acrylic paint on a wooden base. After the paintjob I varnished it, but I think I need an extra layer (foor safety/protection) of Tung Oil. Any advice?

[JohnWaclawski]

Thanks!! I started here & learned quite a bit about tung oil. Almost bought the Minwax thinking I was getting tung oil but between what you mentioned, actually in you comments, and what I found elsewhere, that Minwax isn't real tung oil.

[iancrossley]

Forty years ago I sprung $50.00 for a gallon can of Tung oil.
Never had an issue with air. Still dipping out of the same can.
Good tip on diluting though. Straight Tung oil on Teak takes
a month to dry.

[georgecindyaustria]

With three coats of pure tung oil, the curing time after the third coat can be longer than a week. It more like three to four weeks, I've found, to finally achieve that hard finish that tells you it's fully cured.