How To Upgrade your Car in Gran Turismo 7! (Basics)

Tuning in Gran Turismo 7 is a little different from Forza, for an example. So lets jump in and explain the simple todo with the want for more speed, how to stop spinning out!
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0:00 Intro
0:21 Demo
0:58 First Mods
2:48 Testing
4:31 Stage 2 Mods
5:23 Testing 2
6:30 More Stage 2 Mods
6:55 Gearbox
7:18 Turn on Antilag
7:24 Easy gearbox tuning
8:15 Bonus mods
8:44 Rain Racing
8:57 Reduce PP
9:10 Visual Mods
10:30 Bonus bonus mods
11:11 Testing 3
14:04 Testing Hard tires

[BlackPanthaa]

Slightly different pace tonight! Just a little basic guide for those that were asking how to go about upgrades in GT7! Remember that soft tires are always priority!
See you on stream tomorrow!

[batarangs_of_chaos]

He actually explains very clearly for beginners

[adandredestefano]

When performance points is not a limiting factor, I will almost always add parts in this order; tires, weight reduction, suspension, downforce AKA spoilers, transmission and then power adders finally. I've been playing this game for 25 years. That method has always worked in my favor.

[willosyt]

I bought the game 2 days ago and I already have 20h of play time.. The game is incredible!! playing on ps4 btw

[GabrielRamirez-bqic]

I'd say tuning a car to drive well and fast with sports tires on is way better, rather than going straight for race tires, because it allows you to get a better feel of the car's base handling and its limits. Being able to work out all the kinks while on sports tires (which is basically realistic conditions) pretty much guarantees it will be even more of a beast when you put the racing slicks on.

[neblolthecarnerd]

Personally I go for more realistic builds so I'll probably not use racing softs as they are race slick tyres and instead of for sport softs.

[marcobrancorsini]

The order of mods I go with is:
Tires (racing soft)
Suspension
Brakes
Weight reduction and chassis rigidity improvement (I do those two together)
Transmission, flywheel and clutch, differential
Power mods.

[lgg]

I'm asking you Youtubers to do a video on balancing tuning for PP specific races, how you can't just buy power, you need to balance the car out.
I found it really interesting trying to tune and purchase parts to make a car hit the PP target WHILE making sure I cover utility parts that make the car balanced.

Like you could drop the tires down to normal hard's and give more power, but the tires will skip all over the place, same with suspension, you can skip to inch out a few more HP, but the wobbling of the car in turns.

So I think people need to understand at the higher levels of tuning for PP and maybe even the lower ones, you really need to make sure you are purchasing those key balancing pieces, even though your not hitting your max HP potential.

[imfstu]

Good basics video! May I offer some advanced stuff?

I have this same car, and I was tuning it for around 550pp, 295 hp. But it was unstable at times on SH tires. Snapping on me when I corrected for a little oversteer.

I kept the suspension stock to retain it's balanced handling. (Warning: even if you match the OEM suspension settings with your customizable suspension your car likely won't handle the same. For example the roll bar will not feel the same)

I knew most of my problems were due to the power delivery of the car. So, most of the Tuning came down to tuning the LSD.
I know it's an intimidating thing to work on but just work on it like this. Modify only one setting by like 10 up or down, take it for a spin, see if it is improved to you.
For this car I ended up slowly maxing the intial torque, lowest acceleration sensitivity, and maxing the braking sensitivity. Why?
braking sensitivity activates when off throttle. Acceleration sensitivity is when you are on throttle. Initial torque can be thought of strengthening the actions of the LSD. Remember the LSD is only active during cornering.
I ended up on the lowest acceleration sensitivity to make the car rotate under power, but not feel like a welded diff under power. (if you go for the highest setting this is kinda what you are doing) Whereas the braking sensitivity needed to chill out. This makes it understeer more, but this car's suspension is built to make it playful, so it compensates. I steadily increased the initial torque to soften the reactions of the car. (You usually want to do this as you increase in power)

Now the car can be used on sport hard tires for sliding fun, or sport softs for racing with TCS on 1. It is setup to be steadier early to mid corner, but you can adjust mid corner by dabbing the throttle. This may not be how you want to handle the car, but I like it.

Also good to note, you can only add so much ballast to the car, so don't take too much weight away, save the cash if you don't need the weight taken off for sport mode for instance. Or else you'll have to pull more power from the engine to compensate. Which you don't always want to do. (Tip: Use the power restrictor first, before the computer to reduce power. You keep more torque using the restrictor)

You can also save PP by keeping a few stock parts on, like the transmission and suspension, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if you do want that little bit extra, get what you desire. Some suspension kits only do height, some add camber, the last one does everything.

Last note about Putting sticky race tires on a street car. Street cars don't have racing suspension to handle the stickiness of those tires, they are built for street tires, using the softness to maximize grip. You should stiffen your suspension all around to maximize the effectiveness of the car. Lower the car for better CG, but make sure to stiffen the suspension with the ride frequency, cause you could have a soft car that bottoms out. Similarly with the dampers. Stiffen both in an equal manner. This applies for all changes. Unless you are trying to change that front/rear balance. Remember that suspension tuning is all about weight transfer. If your car shifts it's weight too much to the front under braking, (The back gets light, your front end becomes a pivot point) Then increase your rear suspension damper's extension, and the front's compression.
IN SHORT: Race tires on: Stiffen dampers, roll bars and ride frequency, and add a little camber 0.5 or 1 should be good, consider more in the front than the rear to make better use of the fronts, and keep more contact with the road on the rears when accelerating.

Hope this helps!

[Beasty]

Another tip for everyone that hasn't done so yet. Downforce. This is second only to tires. You'll need a wing and Aero mods for the front and rear to maximize the effect. Maximizing downforce in older cars especially will make them feel like completely new vehicles

[boohoogamer]

Never been much of a racing fan, but seeing your videos and how you are enjoying it made me buy a truly changes the experience. Love your content!

[a]

DONT LOWER YOUR CAR ALL THE WAY. YOU HAVE GONE MAD. Rather use aero and other mods, then slowly lower your suspension and find the sweet spot. If you lower the 32 all the way down you cant steer at all.

[FaridFauzan]

I drove this car in previous Gran Turismo Sport.
It's fun to drive as well

[IDontGotFriendsIGotFamily]

Today Friends. Wait. I Don’t Got Friends. I Got Family.

[MJ_]

It's important to note this guide does not apply to Sport mode where tires are regulated. You'll also need to learn how to drive with sport tires on, and all the different harder compounds.

[bungwohlio]

Fun fact: gran turismo 7 was developed in israel.

[kylruby]

im glad how realistic the game is from modification

[plampard]

I felt like some cars 'rubbed' when I fully lowered them, which was causing me to not make a slow hairpin for example. When I brought it up again it was fine tho!

[Len]

I bought deluxe edition, or whatever it's called, of GT7 that gave me the 1, 500, 000 to start out. Usually don't go for the more expensive version of a game, but I've been waiting for the game and had money to waste. I find it almost breaks the early part of the game. It provides so much choice it's overwhelming and I can sense it works against the intended constrictions of the early game loop. Anyone else find this?

[carminecarlone]

I’d like to add about the gearing, don’t just follow the power points, do it based off what race/track you’re trying to do. Like if you know you’re gonna be doing a lot of corners and need fast acceleration in the low gears, make your top speed much lower, that’ll give you a higher gearing ratio to get a faster acceleration out of corners but a lower top speed. Top speed isn’t very important unless you have a lot of straight long shots in the race you’re doing. Yw