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8 Secrets Of A Great Summer Sport Coat Or Blazer - Gentleman's Gazette
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Many many believe that as long as they felt lightweight suit jackets, they're ready for summer but that's not true. Basically, we have 8 core principles that are important for a summer sport coat.
1. Start with the right weight.
-- lighter fabrics insulate less and feel cooler. However, if your fabric is too light, you will have lots of wrinkles, it will look bad and you have to find the right balance. Overall, about 8 to 9 ounces or 240 - 270 grams is a good start a weight because it will give you a drape.
2. Remember weight is not everything, The weave is even more important.
-- The weave of a jacket is extremely important because if it's tightly woven, it will breathe less and in order to feel cool you want to have as much air flow as possible.
-- A great open weave fabric is a so called fresco fabric because when you stand you can really feel every wind and it makes you feel cool.
-- In order to determine if your fabric is open weave or closed, one good way to do it is actually hold it against the light source, like a light bulb and look through it and an open weave fabric is so open you could almost read a book through it or some text in a magazine versus a tightly woven fabric is so that you cannot really read anything through it.
3. Opt for texture.
-- Unlike suits, sport coats are meant to be worn in a more casual environment.
-- You want the garment to be relaxed, distinctly different from the suit jacket. Basically, you will be well dressed without being overdressed and texture is a really great way to help you achieve that.
-- In order to get texture, you want coarse weaves and yarns that are slightly irregular you get some knobs. F
4. Go with unlined jackets (fully unlined or half lined)
-- The open weave of your fabric is not enough because you have a second layer of fabric inside your jacket which is the lining. Linings are typically made from viscose, bemberg cupro or sometime silk which are all natural fibers or based on cellulose which is a natural fiber and they're very lightweight however, the weave is so tight that it restricts airflow.
5. Select the sewn interlining also known as canvas.
-- Basically, when you have a piece of fabric, it's two dimensional flat, in order to keep it in a certain shape, three dimensional around your chest, you have to fixate the interlining to the outer fabric and connect them.
6. Go with a bold pattern.
-- When you have an open weave fabric, what happens is you can see through one way but also the other way and you don't want people to see what you're wearing on the inside or if you have a pen in your pocket. So ideally, a bold pattern a- makes sure you look very differnt from business men but also it helps to make your garment not see through.
7. Embrace strong colors
-- What's also important is you never want solids, you also want slightly mottled colors. Basically, you can be as creative as you want, maybe red or orange or something turquoise. All these colors can work and it depends on how comfortable you are and how strong they are.
8. Choose a single breasted jacket and pay attention to details
-- make sure that you either have patch pockets on your chest, on your side and you can also have details like a center pleat in the back or like shooting pleats, you can have angled pockets, maybe contrasting color or a little colored tab.
-- As far as accessories go, in summer sport coats, I prefer to wear bow ties when it's hot because it doesn't drape all the way along my body which can oftentimes insulate and make you feel warmer than you have to be. If you want to wear a tie, I suggest you go with knit ties because they have a very open weave and they let the air go through.
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Gentleman's Gazette
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