Zip System Pros And Cons

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Just finalizing a self build in Maine. We used the Zip system. One point to mention is the tape should be rolled using their Zip roller, it activates the adhesive in the glue and ensures a good seal. Kinda slow and laborious but does actually make the seal far better.

andywhite
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Keith, I installed the Zip R-3 (insulated board) on my cabin up at Strawberry Res. and a couple of issues that I noticed on your neighbors project. The liquid flashing around the windows should not go on the outside bottom of the window trim. They should have either taped the inside bottom and sides including the top and outside sides and top but the bottom needs to allow any potential condensation out at the bottom.
Also the green zip system is not rated for the flat roof panels (I verified this with my structural engineer during construction). They need to use the brown/orange roof sheeting. I also used a liquid flash on the inside of my windows and around all of my doors, between foundation/sheeting and including the garage doors. The cabin heater rarely came during this past winter even when it was -40 degrees.

sjffff
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Agree with this. Also would add to this that a rainscreen would be preferred so that you can get airflow from the foundation/sill plate all the way up to the sofit. And then adding a stand alone ERV/HRV. Then you would get great airflow inside and on the outside as well.

mattbellon
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Thank for this clip. I’m getting ready to build here in Huntsville AL and I’m going to use the Zip System. Cost a little more than regular OSB, but it’s worth it

mr.independent
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Building ours in eastern KY with zip and an ERV. We’ve chosen to have a ventilated roof instead of a ventilated attic as well. We are using liquid flashing where the concrete slab meets the zip osb to seal it up.

armandoyourpersonaljeweler
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Thank you for your insights and clear presentation, Keith! Commenting to help with the algorithm. Props to the person filming / editing & exporting your video. The audio quality and levels captured (for a recording in the field) is crystal clear and superb and often not easily achieved. 💪 🎤

dull_Asian_dad
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The zip systems blocks air and water from coming in but it also allows moisture to escape. It has a perm rating. It’s a very good product. 100 times better than house wrap

buckshot
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Hi Keith, Make up air is best handled by a energy recovery ventilator (ERV). An ERV will balance indoor air quality with fresh air that has been tempered with conditioned indoor air with fresh exterior air.

daddio
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So glad you are in favor of the ZIP system overall. I wonder how much difference in cost compared to Tyvex?

SinanDM
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Thank you Keith. I have been watching Matt Risinger videos on the ZIP system and I had this question, what happenes to moist moving from within the house to the wall cavity? thanks again.

VinodMenon
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Keith I would go one step further- zip needs a drain age plane in front of it, dimple mat etc and good air flow from foundation sill plate to roof

johnwhite
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The best method at this time is called a rain screen to allow the air move behind the sheathing. The more air that passes through the home the higher the energy costs.

kermitefrog
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Great Video, you need to have A great hvac system when building for Net Zero.

marcesw
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Does this apply for Los Angeles also ? I mean we don’t have snow or much rain.

staceylam
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i see the zip nail holes have been covered with the zip liquid flash but what about the siding nail or screw holes?

utpharmboy
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You are right that a building that breathes is going to dry out. It is also true that all that air flowing out of the house in the summer and winter is lost heat/cold making the system that seals all the air leaks MUCH more energy efficient. I think the hope is that these materials will last into the 75 year range.

koppecreative
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I’m framing on the west coast and have noticed your jargon is different than ours. For us a fascia usually rests behind a gutter system. I never knew any other state would call a floor plate a fascia before. Also we use foam for our “mud seal” at the plate. If we have a board that goes along the bottom in the form of a fascia it would be because something went wrong and now needs furred out.

sweetbread
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I notice that the first window looked at had waterproofing added to the bottom of the window, which is wrong. If water gets behind the window flashing, it has no way to drain out. The bottom window flange should have a small gap but sealed from the inside with a can of window/door spray foam.

New homes in my area are required to have a HRV or ERV for ventilation. There is also a required blower door pass/fail test, so ventilation is a must for such tight construction.

We used Zip-R12 for our new home (zone 6a) and our blower door test was 75% below the upper passing threshold. If not for all of our venting (bath fan vents, dryer vent and range hood vent), our home might be completely sealed from air intrusion. Exterior insulation reduces thermal bridging through wall studs, where studs comprise about 25% of a typical wall with R-1 per inch of wood thickness. The R-value behind my studs is about 15.

We used a 1/4" thick poly mesh rainscreen behind LP siding, when my contractor thought this was unnecessary. LP siding has exposed OSB on the backside which will quickly rot if it cannot dry out. Rainscreen = piece of mind IMO. Siding paint will also last longer, which pays for the rainscreen.

bobbray
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im getting ready to use zip. i will run the hvac fan constantly not on the auto setting, like I've always done everywhere i live(the cutting on and off wakes me up at night)

utpharmboy
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Looking at either 2x6 framing with Rockwool batting between the studs, Zip sheathing, and Rockwool Comfortbats on top of the Zip sheathing; or Zip R 1” +
2” Atlas EnergyShield.

aggiewoodie