Minwax Polyshades Review

Is Minwax Polyshades good or garbage? Does it do a better or worse job than traditional 2 step stain and polyurethane? I have been finishing wood projects for over 30 years and this is the first time I am using this product. Watch this video to see what I think of it.

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[kyledowns]

Works best if you use a high quality foam brush. I’ve used Polyshades for years. I apply a coat, lightly steel wool and then apply another coat. Comes out perfect and lasts a long time.

[Khaltazar]

A better review would have been if you took the same piece of wood that is unstained and tape the middle to split the sides and do the 2-in-1 to one side and the 1 and 1 on the other so we can have something to compare to. Thanks for the video, but it doesn't help consumers (at least me) make an educated decision.

[jodyspan]

This is not a stain. It is used like a paint to change the color of an outdated piece of furniture. It takes 3 coats to cover a honey oak wood such as a vanity or kitchen cabinet using an ebony or dark color. It will go on blotchy and streaked initially, if your are looking for a sold color, it takes 3 to 4 coats. No sanding between is necessary. I did this 4 years ago on a bathroom vanity and no issues whatsoever.

[keviinmach]

One other thing that's probably worth mentioning that for hobbyists, applying the finish where most people screw up their otherwise decent projects. The staining process itself seems to be far more forgiving than the poly, which often leads to bubbles and artificial glossiness. Nothing is worse than spending hours making and prepping something, only to have it messed up in the last step. For that reason, I tend to use the polyshades because it seems easier to manage, . If I was professional and it was my goal to make something flawless, I might feel differently.

[CurbAppealUniversity]

I have to say that Polyshades has its place and that is I feel in refreshing worn wood or changing the color. You must however apply with the grain. Poly does not like to be over brushed and a simple downstroke, followed by an upstroke and you are done. Recharge the brush and overlap slightly, repeating the motion again until reaching the edge. I didn’t like the way you were slathering it on and using cross strokes. I have used this with great success to refresh dated yellow oak kitchen cabinets. I always use the satin finish. I find that three thin coats with sanding in between is best. Like many things, the product gets blamed when often it is user error. Try again using my technique and I think you will l8ke the results.

[turbozguy]

I've used this product several times with great results. Secret is to keep a wet edge and you must use 2 if not 3 coats. I did a set of steps going down to my basement and I constantly get compliments on it.

[VirantRoss]

I found some of this in my shed. It was EXCELLENT! glossy DEEP Finish good color, very strong hard protective shell. Only tried minwax so can't compare to other brands.

[eblp]

Am I the only one that actually likes the streaks on the second chair?

[vladorlovsky]

Thank you. This has been very informative. I wanted to go with Polyshades to save time and change the color. But I'm going back to the 2 step process. It may be slow, but I know it works.

[jaywebster]

As a hardwood floor guy there are a lot of light colors that we polyshade ourselves by mixing the stain in a bucket of poly. Looks great if you do it right.

[connerzeuli]

This is a great comparison video! I've been replacing my house's white baseboards and trim with natural wood trim, but I didn't want to waste too much time staining and clear coating so I got this.
Each board I sanded with 80, 120, and 180 grit sandpaper. I usually do two coats of polyshades with disposable foam brushes after giving the boards a thorough cleaning and conditioning. They've been turning out great. You still get bubbles like you would with regular poly, but with the 6 hour dry time they clear up pretty well. I sand them with a paper bag on a wooden block and the result is a smooth, high gloss finish that looks incredible for being a single stage stain and clear coat.
In the future I'll use stain and clear coat of things that I really want to take my time with, but for something like baseboards it's a game changer.

[jasonk]

I was always under the impression that polyshades was designed to be put over top of previously stained and polyurethaned pieces, so you do not have to sand down to the wood in order to change the stain color. That's the only reason why I would ever use this product I would never use it on a bare piece of wood.
And I'm sure a few ounces of penetrol wouldn't hurt either give it more time to level out.

[ericbrown]

I agree. I’m restoring an old grammaphone from the 20’s. The surface isn’t completely flat and even with very thin coats the Polyshades pools in every low spot. It also does streak a bit. I can see it being nice for certain things but I’m starting over the old way.

[wkw]

well done, well said. I've been working with wood, stains and urethanes for over 25 years. This product is for the DYI with low standards looking for an easy fix. However, I did get this to work without the brush marks showing. It took 4 coats, 6 hours dry time between each coat, scuffing with 0000 steel wool between each layer of finish. The end result is still nowhere near the real 2 step stain and then clear coat but it's passable...probably more effort than the traditional method! A big problem with this PolyShade stuff, it's prone to wear away on sharp edges and corners. On the can, it suggests a top coat of clear urethan for better wear protection....I feel it's an absolute must! I can see using this type of stain/urethane combo idea for non wood surfaces to create a faux wood....like fiberglass doors. Having a faux wood finish over wood is a joke.

[ljaysperspective]

I appreciate the test. My take is that Polyshades works best on natural non stained wood materials - the dark chair took the polystain better than the light chair. Considering the light chair may have required more sanding to remove the prior polyurethane finnish. - the darker chair is already darker, so the stripes from the brush strokes aren't going to be as visible imho, in fact, the brush passes may compliment the finnish more so. Overall, thank you for the time and energy in making this video for us .😉👍

[KarrMcDebt]

You should try reading the instructions. "Maintain a "wet edge", apply WITH the grain, ...

[firstman]

Thank you. I just recently bought that satin polyurethane stain crap and it left heavy overlap streaks on the top of my wood project now I have to figure out a way how to get rid of those dark overlap streaks that is the worst product that minwax has put out. You're right! the old traditional way of staining is better. Thanks

[alanr]

Using two different types of wood chairs isn't a fair comparison.

[DeeegerD]

Agreed, the amount of work that goes into preparation doesn't warrant a half assed job trying to save a bit of time in applying a finish. Also more stain control when done separately.

[ByGraceThroughFaith]

The stain needs to penetrate. Plus comparing products in diferent substrates is not the best way to go about it.