PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

A lot of people know about Acetone smoothing for ABS parts, but what about smoothing PLA prints?
Here are my results using 3D Gloop, as well as Brasso and a Rustoleum Gloss coat. Things. Got...Shiny.

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Other products mentioned :

[scifactorial]

I like the logic!

Put toxic chemicals in bottles with nice names on them and it makes them less dangerous!

[MakersMuse]

Though I wouldn't use it for smoothing, Tetrahydrofuran (THF) works incredibly well for bonding ABS or PLA (and PVC) parts together. it's about as toxic as acetone but a lot more volatile. In its normal state it can form explosive peroxides on exposure to air so be sure to buy the inhibited stuff ;)

[dougjohnson]

My favorite method is just layers of fast-drying spray paint, which does some smoothing on its own, but mostly gives you a softer outer coating that sands down almost instantly compared to PLA. Then coat the whole thing with epoxy. In ANY case, you're sacrificing detail for smoothness whether you're melting into the model with this stuff or putting a coating on top.

[huggysocks]

I never use harsh chemicals. Now here is a harmful chemical I like to use.

[_evildoer]

"I don't like using this stuff because of the fumes, so I used THIS stuff, which also has fumes"

[nerys]

If you are up for it it would be interesting to see you print the same skull in the same filament put some effort into sanding it and then just hit it with the Rust-Oleum clear coat and compare the two

[jaysprenkle]

Currently I'm liking Polycrylic by Minwax for smoothing prints. The water based version is easy to clean, not toxic, and easily available. It also can be used to fuse laser printer toner to a printed part. It does not melt the plastic. It fills in the texture.

[AprilShermanWhitehead]

We got to meet the 3D Gloop creators at ERRF, and they are super-cool! Great to see how it works. They really know their stuff, and they're very nice and approachable in person. We tested a glued part made from two pieces of PLA that had been bonded with 3D Gloop, and it was incredibly strong.

[GrowMau]

It’s a cool product & a great video. But bro, please don’t blow smoke up our butts about the hazards of MEK when this gloop contains Methylene Chloride, a compound listed by OSHA as potentially carcinogenic. Personally, I don’t have a problem working with either compound under a hood or with protection. But knocking other methods to “promote’’ this product kinda turned me off. Cheers & respect.

[jasonspink]

"I don't like adding material on top of material", then proceeds to add material on top of material 😂😂

[igorfedik]

Dichloromethane or methylene dichloride does the job. It is a common solvent for PLA and It is an active agent in these compositions. It is volatile and should work in a fume chamber just like acetone works with ABS. It is sometimes available in 3d printer consumables stores but in my place it is 10 times cheaper in lab supplies stores

[cthulpiss]

adding additional layer of XTC-3D is bad, because it's additional layer, but layer of 3D Gloop is fine? Weird logic.

[ctpctp]

2:10 - "another thing about that is you're adding a material on top of the printed part..." 4:27 - starts adding a material on top of the printed part.

[veenix]

My process is tedious but works well... I sand it down going from 80 grid paper all the way up to 240. Then I use some plastic glue and a toothpick to fill in any gaps that are left between layers, just very gently rub the glue over the areas that need work. Sand again, fill in again as needed and then by the end you got a good smooth result ready for priming and painting. Takes a bit of time but this way you keep details where they are needed.

[MauiRedMan]

If you use the cura slicer look in their experimental area they have an ironing setting that has made my prints super smooth

[Ulexcool]

You need to watch some "how to apply thin layers of paint" tutorial.

[efe_aydal]

For people who are wondering when the video actually starts, it doesn't.

[museonfilm]

Here in the UK there is a product called 'Greygate Plastic Polish' - apparently used by the RAF to polish aircraft canopies (plexiglass).
This stuff is liquid, and has an extremely fine grit, and is non-toxic. You dab it on, let it dry, then buff it.
For prints with large surfaces it would be great, but maybe not something complex, as getting into those crevices may be an issue.

[RumbleLab]

Seeing the prints transformed into the smoother end result is weirdly satisfying! Great options to keep in mind for future prints.

[DSage]

I just posted a video to smooth PLA with spray Polyurethane! Very easy and I didn't even sand the model. Check it out too!