How To Surf Big Waves & Overcome Fear | Surf Lesson

Surfing big waves is always a challenging experience, especially if you've only taken up surfing later in life. As always, spending as much time as possible in the ocean during bigger swells is the surest way to feeling more confident, however these practical tips will also help.

With a recent run of big waves here on the East Coast of Australia, I found myself a little unprepared for many of the waves on offer for the apex of the swell.

I ended up surfing some great waves, solid, but definitely not huge. I saw many intermediate level surfers who also paddled out but struggled with the conditions. This tutorial is for them.

[Bello..]

My top tips for big surf is breath, if a big set will get you out of position exhale all the air and just before you duck dive inhale all you can. If you get held down just relax, don't fight the wave and wait until you feel the turbulence is reducing and when you get to the surface dont breath without opening your eyes and cheking if you have time to take a breath or if there is any foam. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY: IF YOU CAN'T SWIM BACK TO THE BEACH IF YOUR LEASH BREAKS DON'T GO IN!!!

[robarnoldbik]

You forgot the most important thing when paddling out in big surf: ask yourself, if my leash snaps, will I be able to swim back to shore? If the answer is no, don't go.

[nkbtnk]

Ride closeouts. Take a lot of wipeouts. Go bigger little by little. Try reefs. Try surfing alone in some odd spot. Fight your fears one by one and one day you will take on those 6ft+ with the only fear left. Fear of missing out.

[Honestly__now]

Good advice for sure Kales....My 2 cents for the intermediate crowd
1. when it gets serious - know your limitations and be more picky about what waves you catch and the days you go out. Big waves are not all alike some are rollers that drag you a long way underwater and some detonate.
2. Deep Slow Breathing - slow your system down since your adrenaline will eventually be pumping. Its not about being macho, its about being prepared and living. I avoid anything that looks like a closeout.
3. Observe the ocean for minimum of 20 minutes or more before going out. Is the swell rising or falling?Where I surf it can get very heavy - a pro surfer broke his neck in epic big surf there and was lucky to live, I was out the day before that happened and it was building and getting scary- it can be life threatening and the lips can literally be 6ft of throwing icy water.
4. know all your emergency plans (where is the closest hospital if you need the emergency room) - and surf with other people when its big.
5. Get a good NEW leash every winter (or summer if the waves are big then). Not one over 2 years old.
6. If your leash breaks its good if someone can spot you (meaning watch to make sure you are ok going in at the very least.). I broke my leash on a very big day and was 200 plus yards off the coast and fortunately someone did spot me (he was going in as well) and made sure i was safe. Who knows he may have saved my life...
7. Currents can be very strong know them and abide by the basic rules of channels and currents (to go in you must be where the waves are, the channels typically suck you out) that means yes you may take pounding so pacing yourself and saving your energy is very key. And most of all big surf is about being very calm and respectful (and watching your energy levels)


For what its worth I gave up days well over 10ft. (double overhead) with a family its not my business to be thrill seeking but I do miss the feeling of being on top of a freight train. Really big waves are an addictive rush and scary. Anyhow hope that helped and you get that life affirming rush if you do go.

[jamcamgamer]

the most important thing is deffinetly to go with friends, they’ll hype you up to go on bigger waves then you usually would and that’s how you get better, no half senders allowed

[manugr]

In the past as a beginner the really first point for me was to overcome the fear of big waves. I was like, how tf should I get out there and surf such a big wave. It really helped me, just to paddle out in the lineup. When your out you can see the waves from a totally different perspective and watch other surfers from a different perspective.
Coming out into the lineup is really hard for a beginner, but managing this already gives you some confidence.
You have to overcome the psychological point to surf such waves.
My second step was, to paddle in the waves and feel the power they have. On this way you can get a felling for the waves and as you feel ready try to stand up. Don't give up if it don't work at the first times! You will reach the goal step by step.

[electricvoid]

My advice that helped me was get into body surfing, and bodysurfing shorebreak. It gives you so much confidence knowing you’ve already willingly taken off the leash and taken a beating, and doing it for fun none the less.

[lucaa]

I'm doing my second surf competition this Saturday!! I'm really stoked bc i've gotten much better by your vids. So thanks man!! Just thought I could mention this because everyone is very kind and supportive here

[dunny.]

I like the 3-2-1-go principal. So simple. I’ve been hesitating on the bigger set waves lately, thinking they’ll close out, only to watch the missed wave peel perfectly along the bank. Gonna 3-2-1 them from now on!

[bonefishboards]

One thing about surfing bigger waves, depending on the surf spot, is that there is typically a larger margin for error while taking off than on smaller waves. As long as the surfer is 100% committed, a fumbled stroke or stumble while popping up can often be fixed while taking off on a larger wave as the time from popping up to dropping in is longer than on a small wave. The other thing is that larger waves typically break in deeper water. The worst injuries I've ever been around while surfing happened in small waves that break in shallow water. My son got a severe concussion while surfing a chest high cracking beach break because it was breaking in very shallow water. Use the deeper water in big surf to your safety advantage. Of course, Jaws or The Right or Cow Bombie or Mavericks are different animals altogether.

[RJ-show]

Was out in 7ft waves today, almost drowned, wasn't prepared for what that kind of swell looked like. Lots of lessons learned and got out safely. When you get rekt by 6ft+ waves over and over, gasping for air, poorly duck diving, feeling the raw power of the ocean, that's all positive. A few hours out from that session, I feel like the silver lining is now I won't be as nervous about 4ft-5ft waves and that should help me build up.

[danablack]

I needed this lmao the most I’ve been out in is 6 feet and there’s a 10 feet swell rolling up rn

[winstonwhite]

Love your vids bro, 6-8ft beach break a lot scarier than most predictable reef breaks. The paddle out can be 20 mins, plus also taking a beating with hold down 2-3 in a row when caught inside scary AF

[ashdgee]

I love this.Seeing that dark inside of an 8 footer just triggers my heart beat and instantly you are already thinking of wiping out

[seanwatson]

Kale, you're the single best source for my surfing improvement right now. Awesome job!

[camjrdn]

Impressed you could talk for 10 min about mindset and commitment when paddling.
Probably need to mention that if people can’t swim in after a leg rope fail they shouldn’t be out there

[Jessemarshall]

You've really just got to cop a few big ones on the head to realise they aren't as bad as you might think. Once I find myself panicking that's when I get into even more trouble, mind set it key.

[schmoulblah]

3 weeks ago we got waves in socal, i was exited and shitting myself at the same time as soon as i was sitting on the other side of the line . then a big standout came, peaking way before my position, pushing me with all that power big waves have and giving me no other choice than try that drop or get smashed. it was a success, my first xl wave.
i paddled back to the line up for another one, and another one .and another after work, go back to te beach, and the day after .
that adrenaline blast at the moment i dropped that first one . its like heroin

and monday to wednesday ( and maybe beyond), big waves are back, bigger . cant wait .

[nateo]

Rode my first 3’ overhead wave today. I can’t agree more with the skill / experience flow mentioned in the vid. Two years ago I would see overhead+ waves and fear; today I saw overhead+ waves and grinned. Skill level must match. I will also say a bigger board matters! Tried riding the same waves on my short board and the takeoff was sketchy; with a little more length (step up / mid) you have more time to slide in safely on bigger waves.

[AlexBoultz]

Dude, cheers for the Vid, Friday me and my mate are paddling out In 8-10ft, I'm Kinda Scared, I won't lie, biggest Swell I've surfed so far😳🤙🏽