3D Printing Tools You NEED (Yes, More!)

In this video, I'll share more 3D printing tools and accessories to improve YOUR workflow!

Last week I shared a list of 15 better tools to improve your 3D printing workflow. Here's part 2... I hope you enjoy it, and that it helps you discover some new accessories for 3d printing. If so, please consider using my links below for all your 3D printing tools and needs.

🎥 IN THIS VIDEO: 🎥
00:00 Introduction
00:49 Acupuncture Needles
01:46 2MM Steel Rod
03:10 Scraper
04:30 Mounting Bracket
06:48 Epoxy
08:22 Trash Bin
09:50 Calipers
10:57 Heat Gun and Hairdryer
🛒 Heat Gun:
11:54 Soldering Iron
12:47 Vinyl Weeding Pick
13:29 Glue Gun
14:52 Electric Mini Screwdriver

🔗 OTHER LINKS 🔗

🛒 RECOMMENDED GEAR: 🛒

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[ThirdDynamic]

Yes, definitely talk about how you made your enclosure! It looks awesome and I am wanting to do the same thing eventually. I have seen a few others make some nice ones, but so far I have really liked the look of yours, plus it seems like you have it attached to your wall which is something the majority of others haven't done. Amazing and informative videos as always. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to do these!

[madmachanicest]

I am a carpenter so i would love to how your enclosures are made. I could build one for my self if i had the diagrams

[Bcjc]

Always enjoy seeing your videos pop into my subscription feed. Love the videos! Keep up the great work!

[Aikano]

Tweezers are very nice, I have a pair from army painter, the red one is incredibly helpful in removing purge lines, skirts and brims with a too low Z-offset, or filaments with ungodly amounts of bed adhesion

[sycoaniliz]

Skip #1 & 2, use cold pulls instead. That actually removes whatever is clogging the nozzle instead of just moving it. The electric screwdriver is super underrated in this field, highly agree there.

[AdventTraining]

I always look forward to these videos. Keep up the great work Jonathan!!!

[Sirron]

One of the things I'm glad I did with my scraper was to sharpen it. Not enough to cut obviously. It went from 0.7mm to .4mm (yay calipers!) and made a big difference in getting under prints.

Thanks for your videos, they've been helpful!

[jimmym]

I have most of the stuff u mention even the fine tip hot torch( cigar lighters). Will get a 3D pen soon. I would add a electronics SMT repair hot air unit. It has multi size n shapes of nozzles and temperature control which will work better than hot torch. Thanks for sharing 💕good video.

[flyhnl]

Thanks for the tips, interested in the encloser!

[ScytheNoire]

Wood chisels - great for cleaning off support material from surfaces, especially flat surfaces. Can pick up a set of small ones (1" / .5" / .25") for pretty cheap.

[OddlyIncredible]

Another must-have tool: a full set of long, metric, T-handle, ball-end, hex drivers - 2mm-8mm will cover just about everything on just about any 3D printer with a print area smaller than half a cubic meter. Ball-end and long length lets you get into tighter spaces, T-handle gives better control over torque. (Just remember to scale your aggression to suit the size of the screw so you don't snap the head off. M3 screws don't need multiple hundreds of newton-meters of torque.)

[Commut]

Heat guns have many general shop uses and really benefit from a stand so you don't have to waste a limb holding the heat gun. The small one you show would be easy to make a variety of stands for. My workbenches have steel tops or steel sheets so I'd use a magnetic base (as use for dial indicators etc) which are quite versatile but you could certainly print one then insert a rare earth magnet in the base. A hot air soldering station (a very small precision heat gun) would be worth experimenting if you already have one.

[OddlyIncredible]

I have acupuncture needles, but what I found works better for clearing clogs are carbide PC board drill bits. Why? Because they're fluted and can actually _remove_ material when twisted into a clogged nozzle, _even if said nozzle is cool._ The only thing to watch out for is to take care to not drill out the nozzle hole - you can oval your nozzle if you're overzealous - but if you're using one to clear a hot nozzle and pay any reasonable amount of attention to what you're doing this is rarely an issue. (I also run 0.6mm hardened steel nozzles and my cleaning bits are 0.4mm, so it's a little harder to accidentally modify the hole.)

[JoeAiello]

Gee, perfect timing. I used this to add 3 things to my gift list!

[LouisKleiman]

I definitely want to know more about enclosure design and construction. Can you talk about heating options and when a heated enclosure is necessary?

[dazlock]

I'd love to see someone to a video on uses for failed 3d prints and waste bits like support and skirts because I have 2 bags full of them and don't have the space to get one of those gadgets that makes new filament!

Also, little tip I learnt with digital calipers. Use an SR44 battery instead of an LR44 battery to have a more stable voltage across which means more accurate readings.

[radiotbo]

you can clear the white thing from superglue by aplying a little bit of olive oil after it is stick

[CatServant]

The best scraper I’ve found for prints that stick stubbornly to the bed is the BuildTak Spatula.

[peterleblanc]

Cool trick I've pulled with a hot glue gun is to use popsicle sticks to built scaffolding around tall skinny models to keep them from wobbling. Just glue to build plate and model and take it off after the print. Managed to print what was basically a tall wall that was 220mm tall by about 3mm wide out of TPU with this trick. Nice list.

[rbid]

Great video as usual.

What about a video showing how to correctly use brass insets with your Soldering Iron, that is, how to get them correctly in, perpendicular, and what holes you need for the correct inset :)
Greetings from the Galilee.