Use THIS Aperture for BETTER PHOTOS in Landscape Photography Instead

The aperture is the most important stylistic instrument of all camera settings. This is why I always try to use the best possible aperture for my photos. What is the best possible aperture for landscape photography, is revealed in this video.

Christian Irmler
Landscape Photography Vlog - Tips - Tutorial

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[roysecord]

Christian, you are such a wealth of information. You are turning me into an award-winning photographer. You solved so many of my technical problems. Many thanks.

[SenorGancho]

Great discussion of your process Christian combined with the examples made for an excellent session. Great point about the challenges of focus stacking in the forest. The issue of all the leaves and branches moving is obvious, once you mentioned it. But hadn't thought that through before. Vielen Dank!

[rhodesia]

Christian your content is always worthy of a thumbs up 👍 .. brilliant and simplified . Thanks very much ! Stay well !

[kevinleblanc]

Hi Christian. I stumbled upon this video and I am so glad that I clicked play. I have to say I am very excited to become a subscriber. Your information is very helpful and your energy in your presentation is refreshing. Your passion for photography really comes through in your instruction and your photographs are truly inspiring. I will look forward to your videos in the future.

[mjellings]

As a total beginner I didn't realise different lenses had different F stops at which they are sharpest, thanks I'll check out your other video and test this on my lenses.

[adrianalfordphotography]

Great video Christian and explaining the aperture comparisons. I agree each individual lens has a different sweet spot depending on brand and focal lengths. You used some great examples to explain. Thanks for sharing the video my friend, cheers 🍻 🙏

[okaro]

1:40 You can get that sharp with f/1.4. Learn the hyperfocal distance. I see that as beyond which focus does not really matter. At 50 mm and f/1.4 it is about 60 m. For each two f-stops it is cut by half. However, always focus on the main subject. Many beginners think that if there are great distances in the photo one needs much depth of field even though nothing is really close.

However, it is not pin sharp. Depth of field is calculated using circle of confusion 0.03 mm on full frame. That is about one megapixel resolution.If you print it 60 cm wide the circle of confusion is 0.5 mm. As Tony Northrup said the biggest misconception of the depth of field is that it exists. The unsharpness increases linearly from the focal plane and at some point someone in the film era decided that it is sharp enough.

[yophotodude]

Many lenses start suffering from diffraction at smaller apertures. This is why you lose sharpness at f/16 or f/22. Diffraction is light bouncing off of the aperture blades which softens the image. It’s also how we get sunstars.

Most lenses are there sharpest at f/8-f/11.

If you need more DOF than f/11 you should focus stack.

[HR-wdcw]

If you need front to back sharpness and you have a little time (like 30 seconds or more) I would personally focus stack (find out what the aperture your lenses are sharpest at and then do a stcak of images at that aperture for sharpest results, but you'll need a tripod for this). For moving subjects, it can't really be done, unless only part of the frame is moving (let's say the front is a bunch of flowers and the mid and background are mountains--then you can probably do this because in the other two or three shots (of the mountains) it doesn't matter if the flowers are moving because they will be masked out when the images are combined). I found this to be the best approach and honestly, faster than trying to find the hyper focal distance (which leaves less room for error). If I'm shooting at a smaller aperture, like f/8, it's a bit more forgiving and doesn't have to be exactly precise in many cases, except for maybe thing that are very close to the camera, like 10 ft away).

[ROUGHROADPH]

Excellent tutorial buddy.
Factual and as we must all admit as photographers, composition, circumstances =camera settings.
TQ

[LeePelling]

Very well put together informative video mate, sure that will help many new and old photographers! 👍

[derkarhu]

really nice discussion of some of your more subtle choices of aperture...valuable insights.

[GuidoVanDeWater]

Great video and it gives good insights of you're tought proces. I get a lot of comments that people find it strange that I use Hugh apertures often because according to them it is not the sharpest for my set. But In my opinion its not all about that sharpnes. Sometimes I deliberately use the higher apertures to create a mysterious painty look to an image. Especialy when there is a bit of fog that works very well is my experience. I think it all depends on what you like best yourself. I often shoot multiple different apertures and look on the computer witch is the best. Advantage of living in the digital age I guess... grt guido

[Auroralover]

Thank you very much for this video. I learned so much from you. 🙏😊

[msantero]

Great info. For all the years I've watched videos, I don't believe this has been ever presented in this way.

[MA-notz]

This was so great that I just subscribed.

[Stop-All-War]

'Most lenses' are sharpest between
F2.8 & F8. Hyperfocal distancing &
Focus Stackings helpful, Exposure bracketing too. Circular Polariser recommended. Tripod & 3s timer.

[DarrenJSpoonley]

Super job as always, great depth of detail too :-)

[oneeyedphotographer]

I am not expert in optics and diffraction, and I have forgotten some of what I learned in school sixty years ago, but Dustin Abbot describes himself as a professional lens tester, so I expect he does understand it.

I used to own a 5Ds, and according to Dustin diffraction becomes apparent at F5.6. Of course, it's worse with your 61 megapixels Sony, and any imperfections in your lenses your sensor can record more accurately.

Now, I use a Lumix S1R for some of my landscape photography. At 47.3 megapixels it's close enough to the same as the 5Ds regarding diffraction. In its 187 megapixels mode, diffraction is not worsened.

Usually, I focus where I want you to look and shoot at or near F5.6. I don't think there is any circumstance I would shoot at F16.

Usually, close enough is close enough. Only a photographer would stand close enough to a big print to touch it with his nose, sensible viewers stand back to take it all in. If you can se what I want you to see, does the rest matter that much?

[margareteirmler]

Wieder ein sehr aufschlussreiches Video 👏