The EXPOSURE Mistake I See All BEGINNERS Make with Landscape Photos

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In this week’s episode, we discuss the exposure mistake I see all beginners make with landscape photos. This mistake is something I'm all too familiar with as well as this is something I did for the first few years of my photography journey. And this exposure issue isn't just something that beginners fall into, but it also impacts all levels of photographers whether you're a beginner or a professional, but like many photography mistakes this is simple to resolve once you understand what the issue actually is. I really hope you enjoy this week's video and as always thanks so much for watching! - Mark D.

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**LETS CONNECT**

[firstchoicephoto]

After being a full time photographer for over 36 years and teaching photography for 30 plus years I can tell you that most photographers have no idea what a correct exposure is to begin with. People need to know what the subject of the scene is, then start exposing for that. No point in exposing for a overall scene if the subject is or in shadows. Likewise no purpose in exposing for the shadows if the highlights are the subject.

[oldtvnut]

If you are shooting in raw, then a good (and quicker than the histogram) method of increasing the exposure without clipping significant (to you) highlights is to use the "blinkies" overexposure indication on your LCD display. If only small, insignificant (to you) areas are blinking, you have gone as far to the right as reasonable. On my Canon, I find that areas that are just at a level to blink are still recoverable from the raw file, but you don't want large areas of blinkies, as then some portion of the blinking area will probably be clipped even in the raw file.

[victahh]

I would always under expose due to the phobia of blowing out the highlights. Didn't know the histogram is based on jpegs! Will implement ETTR more in the future.

[dfinlay]

One of the reasons I went to mirrorless was to see the histogram in the viewfinder. Helps a lot. BUT, I do make a call whether or not I think I will be doing post processing or not. Sometimes, I want to use the images straight out of camera. Then I expose that gives me the best image without editing. Thanks Mark.

[prsearls]

Modern cameras have wonderful and useful information about exposure. Using it to your advantage is up to the shooter. This is very good advice.

I began photography with all manual cameras and a Gossen Lunasix light meter. I shot thousands of Kodachrome and Ektachrome transparencies where proper exposure is critical. The incident metering method worked very well most of the time. I could not have imagined what is commonplace now. No post-processing back then, just yellow Kodak mailers for developing (remember those?). I've seen lots of changes, made lots of mistakes, learned a lot and had (am having) lots of fun. It's been my primary hobby for 60+ years.

[MrKkspeed]

The histogram implementation differs in each camera brand. In some brands, it counts the pixels based on the final JPEG, which means it takes in user defined art filter, highlight shadow correction, film simulation etc. But in other brands, it would be measured based on the pixels before going into the software pipeline. And the histogram can completely stop working or showing bogus value, if the parameters dialed in cause significant over exposure or under exposure in some brands (e.g. Olympus). On the other hand, the exposure meter tends to be more accurate, and I find it helpful to do spot metering to make sure the range of the scene falls in the dynamic range that I'm comfortable with.

I also find trying a bit astrophotography with deep sky objects helps me to be more comfortable with camera controls for a few reasons: 1. it's mostly about photographing objects that cannot be seen by naked eye so it makes me more comfortable working with non-precise preview and replay; 2. it helps me understand more about signal to noise ratio and sources of noise, so that I can make more informed decision on exposure parameters.

[ccoppola]

I use an old slide film technique and use the spot meter for my brightest important highlight and place it into zone 7 or 8. The rest falls where it lands. If you’re having a hard time finding the important highlight…SQUINT at your scene and knock down detail. The important highlight value will be evident this way.
Side note: I genuinely feel the lack of dynamic range in old slide and even early DSLRs forced photographers into maintaining good shadow/highlight relationships that tended to make for better Notan structure in their images, thus making them more interesting. Sometimes lack of choices = more creative choices.

[markusbolliger]

Blowing up the highlights is much more severe than underexposing the shadows! If I have delicate higlights in the frame I always underexpose the shot by 1-2 stops - it almost always gives me the best file for postprocessing! But yes - if there are no higlights prone to loose details I expose to the right.

[zeroart]

This is something I had to figure out on my own, so its great your pointing it out. Alway over expose what you see on the camera just a little. Your camera screen is a bright light source and will always look brighter than what the pic will look like. You helped me so much in learning how to use a real camera thanx!!! PS I helped my dad convert a 95 econoline van back in the day so I appreciate your van conversion!

[WisePhotographyForYou]

Definitely have that ETTR fear you talk about, but after this video - and your suggestions - going to start trying it out again. Thanks for the advice!

[PrasadPalaniyandi]

In Digital World I follow one rule - "Collect quality Data in the field and Expose in computer" and ETTR helps me to do that since farthest stop of the Histogram on right end (Highlight) is capable of collecting 50% of data. For example if you shoot 14 bit RAW, the brightest stop (farthest to the right on the histogram) can hold 50% of 16, 384 levels (2^14=16, 384) and each subsequent stop to the left (darker) can hold half the previous stop. So ETTR helps you saturate the sensor - fill with plenty of data.

[ronanimal]

this really is the best ETTR explenation i've seen i never fully understood how it worked until now thanks a lot! i love your videos, inspiring, educational and entertaining keep it up!

[nicewinerytrainingsessions]

Once again, you taught me something useful. Thanks Mark

[djking]

Thank you Mark, great informative video. 🙏

[marekq]

For landscapes I use "ETTR preset" on my camera: overexposure by default by 1, 7 stops at base ISO.
If there is an "overexposure warning" in the viewfinder, it is enough to change exposure down until it disappears.
I think cameras should have ETTR metering mode to make it automatic.

[davidskinner]

Thanks, Mark. I have been taught and recomend to under expose for landsxape, but what you are saying, it can make sense, as you definately show not to go too far to blow out highlights. I normaly make up my mind on screen, sometimes check the histogram, but go minus 0..3 to minus 1.0 and choose what looks best. Now I will try to about plus 0.3, particularly in the wodland with some sky in the top half. On the other hand, I don't have a noise issue in bringing up the exposure on the darker areas. Highlight to the left, shadow to the right on post sliders works without noise isues, but ISO is never higher than 100 most of the time. Worth trying ETTR though. By the waa y, my camera is Sony A9II full frame, so I think that helps with no noise issue. Cheers from down under

[robgoodwin]

I've always used the LCD method, and I regularly underexpose on my Leica Q because it so easily blows out highlights... a trait I've read is common with Leica cameras generally. However, I'm often surprised and disappointed to see noise in the shadows at low ISOs, and I've been blaming the camera, which is supposed to perform well in low light. It's been driving me crazy. I had never heard the explanation you provided so clearly here, I appreciate your sharing it with us, and I can't wait to try it out.

[JohnKorvell]

I have been relying on "zebras" more and more. It's sort of ettr but shows me where i may blow out highlights. Better info =better decisions.

[hoodoo_taco]

Snow coming for us this weekend. ETTR gonna be fun Sunday for sure!!

[jamesvanlangeveld]

I absolutely have used the lcd method and then usually end up under exposing by about 1 stop. This is super helpful and I will start trying this method for sure!