FiTech Starting Issues - How to Diagnose it, and fix it.

My FiTech system is having a hard time starting... it takes several cranks, especially when warmed up. I ran into the FiTech team, and we figured out the issue! Let's do some troubleshooting and fix it!

It's time to replace my Carburetor, with a Fuel Injection system from FiTech. Have you ever wondered how to do it? How hard is it? What's involved in the process? Me Too! I've never done it before either, let's see how it goes... In this video, "FiTech Starting Issues - How to Diagnose it, and fix it. " I show what to watch out for when wiring your Throttle Body. This is clearly an Addendum to my existing playlist, because the White Wire needs power while while cranking, not just when keyed on! While this is for my 1969 Pontiac GTO, it is applicable to almost all makes and models of carbureted cars. Subscribe to follow along with the process, and for other project ideas for your ride!

Follow FiTech EFI:

FiTech Customer Support;
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This channel is all about how to's and what to watch out for, when working on your own car. Mike is at the tail end of rebuilding his Pontiac 400, which is now a Butler Performance 467, because a Roller Lifter Broke! (see link below). Also fresh off of installing a New TREMEC TKO 600 from Silver Sport Transmissions. Subscribe to watch more projects on this built, not bought, 1969 Pontiac GTO.

PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO:

FiTech Force Fuel

FiTech Throttle Return Spring

Jegs Throttle Bracket and Return Spring, same as I showed.

Solder Splice connectors, from Amazon

FiTech Fuel Return Bung

Other Playlists of interest;

Hydraulic Roller Lifter Fail Inspection, and process:

Here's the Official Part 1, where Mike starts the preparation of Engine removal

Enjoy, and ask questions by leaving a comment below... See you on the other side!

Instagram/fastmontysgarage

#GarageBuilt #DIY #FuelInjection

[TK-otkj]

Thanks for the advice. Mine was doing the same thing and I watched your video and wired the FiTech to the ignition switch and now it will fire up 2 seconds into the prime shot! Awesome!

[billboyle]

Thanks for keeping the Pontiac hobby going. We need more guys like you. I've been considering FI for awhile, mainly because my 400 L78-w72 is still old school in the way it starts up. The Q-Jet when new on the car ('79 TA) wasn't easy to start, cold or hot. Now with all the power mods and enhancements made to the Q-Jet and the engine it still is tough to start when cold. The FItech is of interest to me so your video(s) on your encounters and fixes are helpful. Maybe someday, I'll go the FI route.

[dukeg]

Ok thank you for the reply an I’ll definitely keep ya posted

[illesskilla]

Thanks ill look into this on my setup. I have fuel pressure but injectors barely squirt anything and it has been sitting for at least 6 months and now wont start. Ill check all electrical connections and try again

[xXwdriverXx]

I just bought a car with a crate motor installed with fitech and I have to hold the key forever to start. This is this first thing I’ll look at. Got curious and searched here and found this good tip

[adammartinez]

Great Video, and it was exactly what fixed my vehicle. Thanks for the in-depth video. Thanks again.

[Rick-O-Shay]

Kudos Mike, on the diagnostics but I would expect more from you, and for the GTO as far as a permanent solution. If I may suggest, not splicing into a dedicated circuit to draw power for another, you're setting yourself up for possible future issues. Why not have a seperate underhood power distribution center. You can have a distribution block setup with both a dedicated 12v source and IGN. source, with separate fused circuits from a single unit. Not only does this make for a safer, cleaner electrical system, you can get a PDC with additional circuits so if you wanted to add any future accessories underhood, they can each have there own dedicated fused circuit. No splicing into circuits. They make them with relay circuits also, so you could have a relay circuit to starter solenoid, No more starter issues when engine hot. I wouldn't be satisfied with anything less than a full 12v IGN. source at my Fi-Tech, this solution would provide that full 12v needed.

[griffmillerii]

Mike, I don't know to what extent you've redone the original wiring on your car, so what I'm about to say may be moot and off-target, but just in case... Originally, I believe your car would have had two battery-positive connections to the points-type distributor, one for key-on, and one for cranking the engine. The key-on would have been through resistor wire so as to drop the voltage (to about 9V IIRC) and therefore prolong the life of the points. The cranking wire would have supplied the full beans (12V) to the distributor for the hottest possible spark while cranking. Obviously, once HEI distributors came along, the resistor wire was no longer needed, and 12V could be supplied to the distributor all the time (as it is on my '74 Firebird Formula 400). The reason I mention it is that I noticed that after you got some voltage to the Fitech unit while cranking, it still didn't seem to be the full 12V, dropping to 9ish volts instead. Maybe it's just voltage drop, but OTOH it got me to thinking about the old wiring for the original points-type distributor, and I wondered if somehow that old resistor wire was still lurking about on your car. Food for thought. Great videos, keep 'em coming.

[MAtelier-Initiative]

great vid bruh. when I start my rebuild I will watch every single one of the vids you made on this subject. I have a 68' WT block in my 68 firebird. I'm pretty sure I spun a bearing.

[fredsmachinewerks]

Hey Mike
I have been having problems with my Fi tech .Call there tech support and all they do is run circles and never get straight answer. Did everything they said and car is still not running right after a month. I think Fi tech needs to expand or there tech support and knowledge base. So now I am going back to my old distributor and using mechanical to advance the timing
They make it look so easy on you tube videos, but to be very straight forward . Fi tech would not be my first choice anymore because of tech support it is really bad. Its great that you got your car running great but would never recommend a Fi tech system to anyone ever again. Just to much of a hassle dealing with this type of EFI.

Cheers

[mattcornett]

I’m getting ready to install an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI in my 69 mustang. My biggest concern is this 12v switched wire. I’m taking the advice of others on the mustang forums and running a new auxiliary fuse box. From there I will connect in the EFI. I just ordered a painless box #70107. Best of luck with your builds… I enjoy the videos… thanks!

[smithjohn]

Goodjob on the problem solve. Your fuel pressure at idle is a bit high . Only need around 45psi base pressure 🙌👊

[bobeaseshop]

Nice work and I am impressed. I thought of doing this kind of system on Bonnie but it just to fancy for her I think. On most of my cars it can get messy with ballast resistor /points wiring. I only mention this because at the start the points get a pure 12v from the starter motor (sometimes there is a spade on the starter for this) wire then in run position the wiring switches to going through the ballast to make the points last longer. A long story, like it do, but you're in the same ballpark here. Keyed start voltage (or lack of it) and running voltage are a great subject to cover. Love that 80psi oil pressure! I also must say I love my Edlebrock fuel pump as it is quiet. Can't wait to see what you do about the fuel pump you have. Bobby

[labalade_]

Hi Mike. Sharing your experience is usefull. I had the same issue on my vette when i first started my xfi fast 2.0
I spent a lot of time to figure out what's going on. I even thought my ecu was burnt 😳. And after a very bad night i found the issue. Same as yours !!!

[petercermak]

Hi Mike, I have a Fitech 38350 system for TPI Chevy's on my Corvette. I did find that my feed wire was on the accessories, so I switched to the old Distributor "pink" wire. The engine now "fires" for a second, then dies. There are no RPM showing on the handheld during the crank, only briefly when the engine fires. I checked my voltage, and it stays above 10v at all times. The tech on duty is new and follows the installation manual only. The master tech, Dillon, is scheduled to call me tomorrow about this problem. Since most of the videos on YouTube are the Carburetor replacement models, the wiring is different and I find that annoying since hundreds of these 38350 and 51' models are sold annually. Summit sold 23 already this year. Fitech should have a huge troubleshooting guide and solution manual by now. L98 and LS engines are a dime a dozen!~ Thanks for your video it helped me and I am sure others.

[chriscimino]

The circuit board is built into the throttle body. It is subjected to high under hood temperature and I hope it has a very high quality electronic circuit board. If it proves to be reliable and long lasting I will be interested. I hope for your sake its built well. I wonder what FiTech has to say about that

[jaredgeeting]

I finally got my 75 dodge truck to start! After a month of frustration. It still shows zero for the rpm's but at least it starts finally some progress. I found the fan was enabled and I'm not running an electric fan. After i disabled it then it will at least start now!

[GerryLP]

Thanks for the video, but I was wondering; why does it seem to happen long after you have been driving the car (like since the Fitech installation)?? Because we all have installed Fitech systems before, and like in my case, I am just now experiencing this issue (long after 6, 000 miles of problem-free driving)?

[sparkydon]

Mine did the same thing, thanks for the video. Where do I het a fuel pressure gauge for under the dash?

[backthatthingupyoyoy]

I have a FT 30004 on a 400+ cid V8. I do NOT have the problem discussed in this video. The battery is NEW and of the appropriate CCA and reserve. Key on is good. Battery voltage is present at the coil (and the white wire) when the key is turned on and during cranking. Distro is an HEI with a matched coil. RPMs are present during cranking, fuel pressure is as expected. Vacuum at idle is as it was with the carb this unit replaced. Coil + is appx BAT+ when running and varies somewhat during cranking (11.0 - 11.9). When idling, the TPS is "0" and the IAS drifts between "5" and "7", usually settling at "6" around 180 degrees engine temp. Since swapping from an Edelbrock 1406 to this FT, it has NEVER started well; certainly NOT when cranked the first 2x. It does, however, start on the 3rd attempt when cold. When hot it starts up 1st time, though it cranks slower than when cold, which is expected.