Improve your cheap drill press with 1 simple part!

[lescoburandun]

I see tons of runout on the new chuck.. also jt33 is not the part number it stands for jacobs taper 33

[YurievOlmos]

if the wobble was caused by metallic debris or dirt between your old arbor and spindle interior, you new cluck/arbor is going to wobble as well, even a premium one. Please update this video instructing to clean both your new arbor (they come greased to avoid rust forming during transit) and spindle insides with kerosene or alcohol. A clean and neat metal to metal surface contact is needed to keep the arbor and chuck in place.
Also, if you got your new chuck and arbor as separate pieces, you need to clean the protection grease from bot JT33 ends before connecting them. Do not push you chuck up your spindle with a metallic hammer, you'll damage your chuck, use a rubber hammer or a piece of wood between your regular hammer and chuck, a couple of firm strokes will do, but just "getting it up there" with a quick trust will not be good enough, it migth stay up without falling, but the first time you apply any considerable lateral force on your drill bit you chuck will fall.

[brokenrecord]

My old chuck had 40 thousandths runout, but the adapter MT2-JT3 was just fine, so I found a JT3 chuck, 5/8".
(good ones are maybe $75 and great ones $200)
I tried the runout in various orientations am down to about 0.004".
I really would suggest getting a cheap dial indicator if you don't have one before you start throwing money at a crappy drill press.

[jamesr.]

Keyless chucks are great but don't think they can't be screwed up with bad practice. They are taper mounted to the shank and can be broken loose if you try to use a large reduced shank drill which may ruin the chuck, the shank or both. To avoid this, never exceed the rated size of the chuck with a larger reduced shank drill. I learned this the hard way and am giving you all the chance to avoid my mistakes.

[jaxv]

Getting paid tomorrow and this is the first thing im buying!

[veronicaanthonygarcia]

There is also a key used to tighten the chuck it goes in the holes on the chuck similar to one on a mill.

[georgecurtis]

But they also take up more space, length.

[nikkitezla]

The tapered thing is also known as a "drift ".

[jefffromjersey]

OR, If you know how to RE CONDITION a Chuck .. you can easily get it to within .002" Run out .. which is HALF of what the Keyless Chuck guarantees you out of the Box ..004- .005.
It's very similar to how a Lathe Chuck Works, and those get adjusted every time you run a Part to get it perfectly centered.. On a Drill press Chuck you have to Grind all 3 Fingers / Jaws to grip at exactly the same time , , which is not easy, but it can be done if you know how to do Surface Grinding, and Lapping, sometimes its as easy as removing some Burrs which have been caused by mishandling the Chuck over time .

[veronicaanthonygarcia]

The key for that chuck is called a Gardner bender

[xinixxagnix]

😂2:31....0, 4 mm run out minimal...adjust it with a rubber mallot

[Bzz]

how do you plan on ever getting that chuck back out, it doesnt have the tang on the end of the arbor

[robertmunguia]

Could you bore a hole with a drill press? Say from a 1/2in to 15mm?

[ahill]

I want to through bolt my spline for simple milling any ideas on a replacement hollw spline assembly

[shawnleiby]

Would those parts work on any drill press or do you have to find out what size you need depending on brand ?

[ArcanePath]

2:31 Looks like you wasted you money as I still see it wobble. I'm guessing it's the quill that has free play. Could be the arbour also. Throwing money at the problem would have been better served in getting a decent drill press to begin with. Like they say, you can't polish a turd

[Woodworker]

Another 3 minutes of my life I won't get back...