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[stevet]

I am in the final stages of an extremely similar build. 1, 000sqft in backyard, had grade to deal with, includes bathroom & utility room, matches house, etc.
My recommendations:
-Build with resale in mind, but don’t compromise your shop for the future owner. Ditch the 8x16” garage door, you lose too much valuable wall space and limited wall space means limited tool placement. Go with 2 single-car doors and wall off one of them on the inside to gain back 8’ of wall.
-Plan your electric well. Much easier and cheaper to add it now than down the road. I have 19 circuits. Don’t forget a circuit for a small point-of-use water heater. Also, put in ceiling outlets for tools in the middle of the shop so you aren’t tripping over cords . Include an extra for a cord reel.
Also put an airline in the ceiling for a hose reel.
-Yes on the slop sink, it’ll come in handy.
-Oils from metalworking can ruin wood finishes, and sawdust can ruin ways on metal lathes, mills, etc. I’d recommend putting the metalshop in the back and have a curtain cross the shop that you can close when welding/grinding. Then make covers for any precision metal working tools (mill) when not being used. I had to ditch the idea of metalworking in my shop as making it work comprised my woodworking area too much. Also, used Torrit dust collectors for metal are all over Facebook marketplace in my area, it may be worth looking into one.
-Don’t overthink duct runs; I wasted too much time planning underfloor ducts, utility trench, etc. just run them along the wall or overhead.
-Don’t skimp on insulation and drywall. BIBS is far better than batts, way cheaper than spray foam, and is good for sound deadening. Use all 5/8” drywall. Cost is the same, but is is stiffer, stronger, keeps more sound in the shop to keep your neighbors happy, and is fire rated.
-Consider your floor finish, welding/grinding is rough on pretty much everything. Maybe just use a densifier or have the concrete polished.
-LOTS of lighting, put them on dimmers to turn it down when not needed.
I think that’s it for now, lol.

[txdxrx]

Not sure if your are still looking for feedback here. I've been teaching woodshop and metal shop for 8 years and I've been around a lot of spaces. I've been in this position with the shop at my school before so I feel your desire to get it right the first time.

Dust collection is a huge beast. Its easier to fight directly at the source. If you can get good runs to your machines you will be a happy camper. I would also add a few floor drops for picking up piles made by push brooms. In my dream shop my dust collector and compressor would be put in their own sound proof room. The collector in the shop I run at school is obnoxiously loud and makes it difficult to want to be in the space while working. The English teachers in the classroom above my shop would also second this thought. Since you put out videos and do recordings I would say this is probably a big priority for you. Jet makes these fantastic and quiet air filtration units that hang from the ceiling which you may want to invest in for catching what the collector misses. They put out a ton of CFMs and are dramatically quiet and affordable for what they are. I believe they are called AFS-1000C.

If possible I would also prioritize separating the metal shop and woodshop portion of your space. You'd be amazed at how quickly dry/superfine sawdust will go up in flames. One shop I've seen in the past achieved this separation using a roll up garage door. When metal fabrication was happening the door would be closed to contain debris and sparks in the metal shop area. Grinder dust and debris also manages to permeate every surface in a metal shop regardless of how well it is mitigated. I really like the second layout you display in the video and I wonder if you could basically continue the wall of the bathroom down to the front of the shop creating a separate metal working area. This could then connect to the rest of the shop via a roll up door like I mentioned. The door could be left open when not working with metal to promote a free flowing and bigger feeling space and then be closed when needed.

The second recommendation I have is to keep material storage near the main garage door to ease how far you have to walk with it. I would then put the table saw and miter saw near this area so that you don't have to try and maneuver full sized materials around the space at any given time. This is honestly one of the few times I've ever commented on a video lol. Not trying to spark any debates here just trying to offer up some experiences I've had. I wish you good luck!

[ottawavalleybushcraft]

Architectural Technologist here. I would suggest continuing the wall of the bathroom across the width of the shop to partition off the back space. This new wall would serve as a backbone in a sense to service both spaces. The rear space could host all of the metal working equipment and have type-x drywall or cement board to further protect against sparks. The front part of the shop could be the wood shop with tons of wall space added. Moving? The partition could be removed to accommodate a vehicle garage conversion. Cheers, Ottawa Mike 🇨🇦

[johnproulx]

Habitable trusses, add a small second story for the compressor and dust collection you could build a small freight elevator/ dumb waiter, and fold down ladder to access. Didn’t notice any windows either

[tjstengel]

Only suggestion I have is to leave enough space by the garage door to back a vehicle in, at least partially so you can load / unload items if it happens to be raining. Or at least have the items in that area easily moveable out of the way. Another thing I have heard is usually having either the first tool that would be used with woodworking close or closest to the garage door so that material can go from the vehicle to basically where it needs to be without having to move it all over the shop. Just a couple ideas.

[davidward]

Travis, one thing I would recommend is pull the front porch (pool side) out from 8' depth to 10' or even better 12' x 24' long. You will thank me later. I have a 10' covered back porch and wish it was deeper. By the time you get grills/smokers and a table out there, it can get tight between them and yours is 8' in the plans. Also the plumbing for an external shower stall and drain would be a great idea since you know you will have a pool at some point (unless you have a dedicated pool house in the plans also). Another option would be enlarge the bath to allow for a walk in shower and a door to the pool area. That will give you the option of a quick shower after yard work before jumping in the pool, or after a sweaty day in the shop, etc... If you brought that exterior wall all the way back to the rear building line, it gives you space for a utility/dust collector room. Also it will be less expensive to build a more square building. Every angle, bump out, etc.... adds costs and complexity. It's in the back so looks are not really a consideration for that change.

[robertvarano]

Of the two designs 2.
My thoughts that you may have considered and just not mentioned:
1. Air compressor and or dust collector in a small lean to on the exterior. Even better then interior closet for noise isolation.

2. I’d consider putting a small shower in the bathroom. I know it’ll cost shop space but it would be nice to have a way to rinse off if I’m covered in saw dust from the shop or dirt mud from working outside without dragging it into the house.

[roryoconnell]

First, I absolutely love the idea of making a 3D model so you can really see the space. So much better than just a 2D version.

Thoughts on design. Keep the utility closet. So much nicer, cleaner, and quieter. You'll also increase wall space as you can now use both sides of those walls to store mops, brooms, etc, on the inside walls. Next, swap the mill and the slop sink. It'll be easier and cheaper to plumb the sinks back to back. It allows material storage in the near term and opens up the useable space to either side of the mill versus being in the corner long term. The drill and mill are also good combos to have in line. Third, watch your clearance on the table saw vs. the CNC table bridge if you get one. Finally, don't forget the "attic" space above the shop. I don't know your plan for ceiling height, but the roof pitches look like you'll have substantial space up there. Remember to plan in attic access along with electricity/lights into that space.

Can't wait to see this evolve and get built. Thanks for taking us along.

[alexpoplin]

Love the miniature build, such a great way to wrap your head around things that you wouldnt think of otherwise.
1.) Utility closet from option 2 would be a must for me. Sound proofing is a huge quality of life improvement most people don't consider. Especially if you need to film in that environment. Planning soundproofing prior to the build makes it an easier task than retrofitting after project completion. I would consider a staggered stud wall, rockwool, and some additional space for sound dampening material on the interior. Beyond that I would consider making the dimensions of that utility room a bit oversized as a future proofing measure in case you decide to get a larger dust collection/cyclone separator in the future.
2.) Having the CNC and table saw close to the garage door would be important to me. The first thing you do when bringing home sheet goods is break them down, rather than wrestle large sheets further into a shop and inbetween benches and fixtures, having your breakdown tools near the entrance creates a better workflow for me. Whether your breakdown is primarily done at the tablesaw or if you prefer to breakdown with a tracksaw station, breaking down large sheetgoods near the front is a blessing.
3.) The last recommendation i have is to put some serious thought into your lighting. Bent's woodworking channel has an amazing video about shop lighting. Your ability to see your workpieces is crucial. Trying to weld something or drill something with any kind of precision while operating in a shadow is less than ideal. Overall, I've enjoyed your content for a while, I greatly appreciate your commitment to thinking everything through, and I'm very much looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[hamilde]

The large sink is a great idea. My wife suggested I put one in my shop since there was water and a drain right there. I was resistant because I didn't want to give up the space. I'm really glad I listened to her now.

[adamjossem]

For the shop sink area I highly recommend a stainless steel restaurant sink. You can get them in different widths and sizes. The stainless is easy to clean up and a great place to use or clean messy or dangerous liquids like stains or bleach. Etc. they are often as deep as a laundry or mop sink. Also the faucet heads can be a bit more useful from a standard sink faucet to a hanging overhead spray washer. Super functional and useful. Also depending on your area you might find a used restaurant supply store that has one for cheap and because they are stainless they just need a little cleaning.

[photorealm]

In my small shop, I put locking wheels on EVERYTHING :) So I can rearrange the workflow pretty quick. My shop is half that size and only a hobby. Moveable (somewhat) Chases on the ceiling for hoses and cables. A small dolly hoist for moving heavy stuff in and on and off tables. No matter what you do, you will outgrow it quicker than you think, it's just physics.
Your shop is going to be awesome and you will spend a chunk of your life in there. Thinking it through so well beforehand is a MAJOR plus.

[python]

Couple of things: I have a dedicated shop similar to this, and I would not put a sink anywhere out in the shop. Make the bathroom sink a multi-purpose sink that will cover all your needs, whether it's shop needs, pool bathroom needs, whatever. (will also reduce plumbing). Second, you haven't said what kind of metal work you will be doing, but more than likely it will involve "sticks" of tube, angles, etc... at some point, so....plan for a metal cutting chop/mitre saw. It will have to be along the longest wall IMO. Metal sticks can be 20 ft long, uncut, or 10 ft, 8 ft, 6 ft, etc. For planning and future purchasing purposes, I recommend the Evolution S355 MCS mitre cutting chop saw (14"). You WILL kick yourself if you don't get it. Next, metal saws kick out a LOT of chips, so you want them where they aren't being thrown into your woodworking area. So the metal chop saw should be close to the garage door, shooting chips/dust into that corner of the garage. Same for grinding....you will likely do it at the welding table, so make sure you set it up so the grinding dust (generally) shoots towards the garage door. Also, plan for a metal belt sander...they take up a decent amount of space. I think your mill is probably a little bigger than you will need, maybe scale it around a Precision Matthews size mill and possibly put it where the mop sink is currently shown. I would maybe look at a slick way of combining the wood chop saw station and metal cutting chop saw into the same linear surface along that long wall as a baseline, then configure the rest of your stuff from there. That way, long sticks of metal and wood can share an overlapping area, and there can be area underneath for cabinets or storage of smaller tools that can roll out to be used, or metal storage space, etc. Also, consider a ceiling mounted fume extractor over your welding table.

[MRTOMBO]

On the dust collection: I was an avid wood turner for 15 years as a hobby. Didn't have a large shop mind you, with all sorts of equipment, but did have the lathe, bandsaw, and access to some other stuff.

Put a cyclonic collector in front of the dust collector itself. In my case I had a small Jet dust collector with two bags on it, an upper and a lower. But the intake had nothing protecting the impellers sucking in air agressively through a 4" hose I think it was. Any chips, debris, god forbid nails or metal would get sucked straight into those impellers on the way to the bags, like a brick thrown into the intake of a jet engine.

I bought a cyclone lid for a large shop sized trash can. Cheap, simple, and it has the contours set for the intake and exhaust to the dust collector in a way it creates an aggressive cyclone in the trash can that traps fine dust and debris to the sides of the can.

I didn't think it was going to work Ok maybe. I was wrong. It's amazing. Even super fine sanding dust stay's in the can. With the hose kits you can create T- or Y joints, and little "gates" you can use to direct or redirect what hose is pulling air, I was able to setup a coil of free standing hose I would use to shop vac the floor, benches, the lathe, what have you, and like nothing was getting to the bags on the dust collector itself. Not that I could see anyway.

Lift the lid on the trash can though, and it had everything in it. super fine "flour" plus evey chunk of whatever picked up.

My .02 for whatever it's worth: Cyclone units on your dust collector is worth it. And it's possible to find something on the cheap, unless you are doing so much you need something more "commercial".

[louisfbrooks]

You may want to consider workflow and moving large materials around in your shop as part of the design process. (Think 4x8 sheet goods or long 2x4s) Especially coming into the shop and moving from one station to another.

[Kyle_R_Wolfe]

i know you said you probably wont be using a bunch of compressed air but if you are going to be running an air compressor often especially a big one i would recommend isolating it and treating it for noise. it will do wonders you wouldnt have expected, not having to hear that compressor running all the time or at least bring the noise levels down will make the whole shop experience while your working up to a 10. i promise

[rickm]

I was putting my shop dust collection system together this past summer and was considering the Harvey G-700 too. Then I watched the numerous youtube videos on cleaning the filters. What a pain in the butt! Please watch a couple of these videos before committing to the G-700. The other downsides of this system are that the system inlet is about a foot off of the floor and your ducting must rise from there. Also the dust bins fill quickly and therefore must be emptied more frequently. I instead chose a cyclone system which has numerous advantages. Mine has a true HEPA filter and empties into a 55 gal drum, my inlet is about seven feet up from the floor, which makes plumbing my ducting much easier. By having your ducting high off of the floor and adding drops strategically around your shop, the system doesn't interfere with wall storage or tool placement. One other note, the advantages of having your tablesaw in the center of the shop are worth the effort. In this case, I like your idea of a floor trough, even if only to run electrical and ducting from a drop along a side wall.

Oh, and if I may, one last bit of advice. Placing machines and benches on mobile bases is a must for ultimate flexibility. Leaving an area of the shop that can be reconfigured dependant on your current needs is a nice luxury to have. You never know when you might take on a large assembly, perhaps a boat?

[williamludwick]

@ 13:55 I believe others have mentioned it too, but you have plenty of "attic" space based on thr drawings... Run all your dust collection piping/hoses thru that and then either store it up there too or build and small exterior "shed" attached to the building.

Also use that hollow beam in thr floor as a way yo get electrical (ir really anything small enough to fit) into yhe center of the building. And definitely run electric for center floor receptacles. Whether for large devices or ad-hoc ones. Definitely will give you way more options and semi- future proof it.

[spacekb]

Focus on the things that will be expensive to change. If it’s going to be “permanent” make sure you know where it goes. If you can move it easily or add it in later, think of a few options and start with the “best”

[Vetbuilt]

For your compressed air, I would consider putting it in the attic. Have a winch that is mounted to the roof beams, so you can easily hoist it up and lower if need be. A ATV winch will do the job just make sure everything is supported properly. Have you drain line plumbed into the shop this way you can drain it easily, or go to McMaster Carr and order a timed drain for it. Secondly, I would try to have your primary processes near the front half of the shop. So if you do more wood working then steel have it near the door where you will have fresh air, and then divide the shop from the corner of the bathroom across with a welding curtain from floor to ceiling, this will help with keeping some of the shop clean when not in use, as well if you get a ceiling mounted fumes extractor, you can get away with a smaller one for the smaller welding space and it will be more efficient. I hope that helps.

Cheers
Chris