Timber Framing - Best Way to Notch a Post

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Timber Framing: How I notched a 6x6 to fit a 4x12 beam using a Reciprocating saw.
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You’ve got some big balls using a circular saw like that, and the result is great. It was terrifying to watch though haha.

sambrewstermusic
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Thanks bro! I still have some faith in YouTube because of vids like this!

jonctipton
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Thanks for the tip.. I'm gonna use that tomorrow 👍

davemclean
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This is the exact thing i was planning on doing with mine glad to see someone else thinking the same way.

mikelaba
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Awesome job. Thanks so much for sharing. Much appreciated

paulconti
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This guy looks like NACHO LIBRE 😅😅😅
……..In a good way.
Btw great job!!

elmofles
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Thanks so much for sharing, awesome job, appreciate it

paulconti
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Any tips on notching a vertical telephone pole to attach a beam?

justin
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Interesting technique. Takes a bit more time, but the results are worth it. It might actually take no more time than the “standard” technique, since it looked like you didn’t need to spend time chiseling after cutting. When is Diablo (or MKE) gonna realize that they could make $$ selling stiffer sawsall blades that wouldn’t deflect in the cut? I wouldn’t use em for ordinary demo, but they’d be perfect for this job.

G.I.JeffsWorkbench
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It appears your building some sort of deck where you've extended the support columns to work also as the guard posts for the upper level. I think that's a great idea, if done correctly. The only problem I see with your design is the notch is on the wrong side of the column. Current building codes require the guard rail resist a minimum force of 200 pounds, exerted laterally against the guard rail, to ensure deck occupants do not fall if they lean against a rail. With your column, when a force is exerted in an outward direction it will cause the notch to open. If the notch was on the outside face then the same lateral force would cause the column notch to close, binding upon the beam, strengthening the connection.
Also, it looks like you're using dowels for the beam connection. I'm sure you'll find the building code requires bolts. And, if there's a copper-based preservative used on the wood then your hardware must be protected from the corrosive effect of the preservative's reaction with steel. Generally, hot-dipped galvanised hardware is used, but there are also some other surface coating options.

redgolf
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I can appreciate the use of the long blade on the sawsall but I thought you were going to just use a chisel and mallet to knock out the chunk of wood.

toobad
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Bro notch it on a saw horse so much easier.

zachmoss
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you cut through no mans land, you should not notch more than 1/6 th of the width of your post, it is very, very, weak structurally now, do not let your cat underneath it.

photozen
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