My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months

After months of hard lockdown ensued, 2021 was a hard year. But that won’t stop me from looking back at the last 12 months of so and trying to think of the positives. It just so happens that some of those positives were watches.

Oris Cotton Candy

The combination of pink and bronze is, for me, the perfect amount of over-the-top, being ridiculous enough to command any outfit and yet doesn’t make me feel like I’d be embarrassed at wearing such a loud watch. The solid bronze bracelet also appeals to me, with solid gold being much too expensive to consider and gold PVD coatings looking a bit disappointing to my eyes. I’ll be the first to admit I love a weird watch, and it seems that in this case the majority of watch fans agree that this reference defies its oddities in its widespread popularity.

Seiko Sharp Edge GMT

Now, you may be yelling at your screen at my opinion that the Seiko Sharp Edge GMT range is a bargain when the price is over $2000AUD, but I really think that it is. The design of the watch is inherently detail-oriented, involving the wearer with a level of reverence that is usually carried by the luxury arm Grand Seiko. Plus, the calibre 6R64 is a pretty unique offering among any traveller’s GMT watch at this prices if you needed any other reasons than the pristine finishing and diamond-pattern dial.

Rolex Datejust 36 Palm Dial

I’m definitely guilty of wanting to go against the grain in many aspects of life, and generally speaking that includes my complete and utter lack of interest in anything to do with Rolex. I understand the hype, I understand the quality, and I understand that level of brand awareness which rivals the likes of Cola-Cola, McDonalds and Ferrari, but when I go into the city and spot ten black Submariners within an hour or two, my attention is drawn elsewhere. Occasionally I’ll browse some of the weirder vintage offerings, like the Air-Kings, the Turn-O-Graphs and the ‘Stella’ dial Oyster Perpetuals, but it’s so hard to be sure of authenticity with vintage Rolex.

What does grab my attention though, is when Rolex break their own shackles and release something that leaves most people scratching their head. The 2021 Datejust 36 has an interesting take on the green dial craze, and that’s one covered in palm leaves evoking some tropical safari and plenty of beige khaki clothes. Similarly to the Milgauss, this is a modern Rolex which is rare because not many people want them, rather than because people can sell them for a 50% profit on Facebook Marketplace, and that is why I want one.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT

I’ve been lucky enough to review several different versions of Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo, and it’s an unparalleled joy each time. It almost doesn’t matter what the dial looks like, because I’m so enamoured with the architectural-inspired case design that I can enjoy it. This Chronograph GMT is fairly special though, because not only is the sunburst blue dial particularly rich and shimmery, but its azure glow is enough to overcome my unpopular dislike of most dark blue dials.

While the case design is supposed to echo certain classical buildings in Rome, I tend to get more of an art-deco vibe from the watch that’s more reminiscent of the Chrysler Building, and as a fan of most 1920s and ‘30s aesthetics, I’m inescapably drawn to it. I’m also fascinated by the operation of the ultra-thin, peripherally-wound in-house movement, with a dedicated pusher for advancing the hour hand incrementally and a pusher that changes the crown’s function between time-setting and hand-winding.

Grand Seiko SBGJ249

The Grand Seiko SBGJ249 uses a silvery blue-tinted version of the crazy popular "White Birch" dial, tilted horizontally to make the wood pattern appear like scattered ripples across a lake’s surface. But, as with all wonderful works of art, it’s open to interpretation. When I first came across this dial, my heart melted, and I pictured myself wearing it while staring out into the choppy waters of Port Phillip Bay. It has an incredible high-beat GMT movement, a Zaratsu-polished Elegance case, and a lovely 39.5mm diameter, but I honestly don’t care about anything past that dial which captured my love at first sight. I almost regret including it on this list, purely because it hurts that I can’t yet buy one.

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[mariog]

Great picks although I’m not a fan of that Rolex dial. It looks too gimmicky to me. I’d go for the blue dial.

[bcgarrels]

I have the Grand Seiko GMT Shosho, and I really love it. Such a great watch, and I always get asked about it. Could be my favorite in my collection.

[simongoddard]

Some great choices. Given Fergus’s comments on the Grand Seiko dial I wonder what he thinks of the Mother of Pearl Sinn U50. His comments match how I feel about mine and it’s ever changing nature and constant water like shimmer.

[craigdlazarus]

Fergus is a champ - Ive read so many of his reviews. Great stuff T&T once again. Love all the GMT's he liked in 2021 too! More personal likes and touches please!

[BobbyDazzler]

Your sidekick looks like the GS gmt watch

[Hard__Iron]

That Palm Leaf Rolex is pretty sweet. Overall though, just to much polished surface for my taste. I really liked this one…well done.

[jh-ilsb]

at least we won't be competing for the same watches!!