How To Braze Copper Pipe Like A Pro (HVAC Refrigerant Lines)

Step by step tutorial on how to braze copper pipe like a pro! We will be brazing or silver soldering refrigerant A/C lines for HVAC equipment! Thank for you watching & enjoy

TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit)

Diversitech Heat Resistant Cloth 18x18 (Flame Barrier Drop Cloth Up To 3,000 Degrees F.)

Spark Lighter W/5 Extra Flints For Lighting Torch

Deburring Tool (Aluminum, Copper, Brass & Plastic)

4 in 1 Plumbers Brush (Copper Pipe Sanding Brush)

Emery Cloth (Roll of Sandpaper)

Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/8"-5/8")

Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 1/8")

Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 3/8")

Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 1 7/8")

Rigid Tubing Cutter (1/4"- 2 5/8")

► Music Credit: Dj Quads
Track Name: "www is a thing"

[canderson]

Enjoyed watching this. In 1970 I commenced work as a refrigeration engineer and stayed in the industry for 14 years. Left and went on to other things. Have not brazed a joint since 1984! It hasn’t changed a bit in all that time. That was in the days before even mobile phones. Electronic instruments and controls were just being seen in the industry for the first time as I was leaving. From speaking to friends still in the industry and now at the end of their careers biggest changes seem to be the types of refrigerants (almost exclusively R12, 22 and 502 in those days), electronic and computerised controls and scroll compressors. Pleased I got out of the industry mind. Sometimes nostalgia kicks in but for the most part pleased with the choices I made. Thank you for the video.

[boywhohadatiger]

The same people who think the dull cherry red is too hot are the same people who’s braze rod sticks to the pipe when they try to fill the joint and dosent flow. The pipe must be hot enough to cause capillary action and that is usually at the temperature of cherry red

[wethepeople]

Try moving your heat off of the pipe and towards the bottom of the cup. You should be filling that cup, then draw the flame back and cap the joint so you can not see the lip.

[seanhalloran]

I like your video, nice production. I just have a few notes. First, there was no mention of any nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary to prevent the oxidation of the copper during the brazing process. The particles left behind, especially on very sensitive newer equipment can eventually lead to an obstruction like oil pooling in condenser coil or blocked TXV or piston. Second, prepping the copper correctly helps ensure a proper weld (add a bit more info for the beginners).
Third, I liked the way you ensured a solid weld around the piping. I did notice that you had you stick bent allowing for about 1" of rod. Example, allow 2-4" of round off your coupling. Use the rule of thumb, if your nail can get caught on the joint, round it off more rod. Lastly, always heat the copper at the fitting not the pie going into fitting, this really helps. Especially with vertical braze joints. Good video, we all are learning each day!

[joshuat]

no drifting with nitro? leaves a-lot of suet inside the pipe and can clog your metering device.

[AB-yutj]

Thank you, that was good to see. Doesn't copper soften with all that heat. I remember I was trying to silver braze copper pipes. I had to put so much heat in there to melt the silver brazing afterward as I was screwing a valve on the pipe, it towisted with little force.
I think i might have needed to use your kind of rod, not that expensive silver stuff.
But you know how AirGas sales people work these days. The minute they find out you're knew at this they will just sell you all kind of things you don't need.

[kadams]

The key to brazing in refrigeration is to get the joint hot quickly ( not red hot ) and fill it quickly. If you were to get a service valve, reversing valve, or TXV this hot, it would be ruined.

[richardwieder]

I work well outside the scope of welding in commercial roofing. It's a healthy endeavor to at least have a curiousity to what some of our brothers and sisters in other trades do in contribution to our projects. Thank you for sharing knowledge.

[xinliu]

Amana says not to use flux when brazing. The flux mixes with the refrigerant oil and forms an acid that compromises TXV and compressor.

[obwan]

When cleaning the burr the copper line must be tilted down so the burr doesn't get inside the tube. The tiniest amount will become a restriction. When brazing you should purge with nitrogen otherwise the scale produced inside the tube will mix it today's refrigerant oils causing restriction and or attach the compressor winding's..It should also be mentioned to use minimum 5% silver upwards to 15% silver content solder when welding air conditioning and refrigeration copper ..

[julianpiper]

Nicely made video dude, just a couple things to improve on in my opinion. Cherry red tends to be too hot for a quality joint, as you run the risk of porous braze joints. Preheat your female fitting to a dull red, and start to feed the brazing alloy in using the heat of the copper to melt the alloy. Flux is a must on dissimilar metal joints, and I suggest using 15% silver alloy for copper to copper. 45% for copper to brass etc. plus flux.

[DYIIdeas]

Wow there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again

[darnit-dad]

Thanks. My first braze worked out great after viewing your tutorial. Previously I was not preparing the surfaces correctly and the pipes were not hot enough. I really had to heat them longer than expected using MAP gas.

[pastortonsils]

Thanks for the help. Going to DIM right now. Wish me luck!

[josephsangregory]

I've been doing this for 40 years as a contractor in the HVAC/R industry and I would fire you on the spot :)

[realschoby]

With that size pipe I would have capped the joint but this is definitely the best how to video I’ve seen yet

[dt_]

I am from India and I completed my engineering recently. I am preparing for the entrance exam for my masters. Today I studied the topic of Brazing. Thanks for this video.

[williamgrissom]

Tried using a Bernzomatic torch with MAPP (true, older cylinder) and Ox on a 7/8" copper pipe w/ reducer to 3/8". I couldn't get the braze rod to flow into the joint like silver solder does. It stuck in a few places to the coupler, but otherwise wouldn't flow. The copper got cherry red at the torch, but not all over. Perhaps the torch is just too small. I switched to silver solder w/ pipe first coated w/ flux and worked fine. I'll try brazing again on a 3/8" fitting, though appears silver solder works fine for a heatpump.

[scottkasper]

One small critique if I may. If you hold the inner flame on the joint it will heat much more efficiently and move the flame in toward the fitting as the filler follows the heat. You don’t need so much on the pipe. Also, that long under the torch seems to weaken the fitting to a degree that it easily collapses at the slightest torque

[TimCasey]

I do commercial refrigeration for a living and have run 2 5/8 pipe through an entire building for a grocery store. Your prep work is perfect. But Red hot is way too hot for a small pipe like that. I am saying this respectfully as I just want to help u. your welds did not get enough penetration into the cup of the 90 and they would crack and leak in the field and you did not put a shoulder on the rim of the cup. You should start by heating up the pipe that is going into the cup of the 90 (this will help the rod start to melt when it is time to add it) then work your way onto the cup of the 90, now u can start adding the rod onto the rim of the cup of the 90. Now move the flame from the rim towards the center of the 90 and watch the brazing rod rush deep into the entire cup. Now do this all the way around the cup of the 90. Then pull your torch back and add a “shoulder” to it meaning. Pull the heat back to where it is just barely melting the rod and adds barrier of rod where the rim of the 90 and the pipe is. This is an insurance policy for leaks.