How to Replace Blower Motor 2012-2020 Ford Focus

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This video shows you how to install a blower motor on your 2012-2020 Ford Focus. The blower motor, and typically integrated fan, is responsible for blowing the heated or cooled air from your heat or AC system into the cabin of your vehicle. A fan could become noisy if it is broken, or could stop spinning all together.

This repair was done on a 2014 Ford Focus SE 2.0L Sedan 4-Door FWD and the process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2012 Ford Focus
2013 Ford Focus
2014 Ford Focus
2015 Ford Focus
2016 Ford Focus
2017 Ford Focus
2018 Ford Focus

Tools you will need:
• Pocket Screwdriver
• Complete Torx Bit Set
• T25 Torx Socket
• Drill

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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[TRQ]

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[JGChgo]

This mechanic is exceptionally good at explaining things. He's very calm, methodical, lines the camera up perfectly and obviously enjoys what he's doing. I wish we all could be as good.

[ohiowoodburner]

My blower motor started making a noise. After watching this vid I will just turn up the radio

[aaronpitcher]

Bruh someone oughta fire whatever brilliant engineer thought this was a good idea

[soapytowel]

Here in the UK & have a failed a/c blower motor. I was going to attempt to replace it myself but after watching your excellent video, I have talked myself out of it & will leave it to garage repair. Now I know why America got someone onto the moon & back!

[Aftrbrnr]

Word of advice when you get to the step to remove the blend door actuator at around 5:30 in the video, there is a bit of a "Goldilocks" factor when selecting the length of the extension needed to get to the rear hidden Torx screws, and that is it can't be too short or too long, but just right, which I found to be around a 9 to 10 inch one. Six inches is too short, and you'll be wondering why you can't get the Torx bit to engage the screw even when an endoscope shows you are right on top of it. On the other hand, 12 inches is too long because after attaching the ratchet to the extension, you'll find it jams up against the wheel well bump on the ratchet end and you can't get the bit to go in straight or a perpendicular position to get to the screws.

It may also help to use a narrower drill bit extension rather than a bulkier and thicker socket one to maneuver around back there.

[simonmatej]

Thanks for the great tutorial. I did it in about 2 hours and I have two notes from my effort.
1) I recommend using an endoscope to find the two hidden screws. I used a cheap one from e-bay connected to the phone.
2) I was worried that I wouldn't hit this two hidden screws back in the holes. My solution: I stuck thicker plastic tape over both holes on the disassembled basket. Then I made a small hole in it and screwed in both screws. Only for the first thread so that the tape holds both screws in the hole during assembly. So I placed the basket with the screws and then using the endoscope I hit the screw head with a screwdriver.

[GeorgeHatcher]

This was an extremely difficult job. Took four hours plus trips to the hardware store and auto parts store for tools to make it possible. If you’re going to attempt it listen to the advice of other commenters and get an endoscope to see what you’re doing—it was a nightmare without one. If you think it’s difficult removing the three torx screws holding the blend door housing, wait til the time comes to replace them. I wish I’d seen the comments above about taping them in place before replacing the housing. We lost one of the original screws to the black hole behind the dash trying to get it back in and had to replace it so good luck to the next person trying to figure out why one of the three screws is a phillips head instead of a torx. Might also be worth it to do what other commenters did and remove the seats so you’re not contorted upside down with all your weight on your head and shoulders for the whole job. I didn’t have any trouble unscrewing the blower motor from the driver’s side with just my left hand using my ring finger to release the locking tab, but maybe I got lucky. Obviously still had to remove the motor itself from the passenger side.

We couldn’t have done this job without this video. Thanks!

[JamieM-up]

This is an exceptional made how to video. Having just accomplished this blower motor replacement, a few things I would highly suggest;

Budget 6-8 hours for this repair

Use an endoscope/snake camera attached (zip tied) to the T20 torx to aid in the removal & replacement of the 2 hidden pesky screws for the housing. Before installing the housing back into place, use Gorilla tape wrapped around the 3 screw holes and insert the screws through the tape to prevent the screws from falling out/moving around.

Removing both front seats is not necessary unless you are a bigger individual, however removal of the accelerator pedal is suggested to provide more room to release the blower motor clip etc.

If you are having trouble trying to release the motor from the housing (unit cannot turn clockwise?) take a pair of pliers and bust off the cage fins/fan housing from the motor, this will enable you to get a good hold of the motor to turn it easier.

Other than that, follow this video and you should have no problem with this repair if you are an intermediate DIYer.

[jeffq]

Just did this yesterday so so much fun lol. Endoscope is a must. Used electrical tape over screw holes to hold the screws upon installation. Just poked then barely through. Started all of them before tightening them. I didn't unplug the fuse board. Just moved it put of place into foot well. Wires were long enough. But had to take fan wheel off to lock it in place. Aftermarket blower motor didn't have slots big enough for my fingers. Then just slipped it back on and re installed lock washer type thing.

[larryfisk]

Just replaced the fan on a 2014 focus SE, used electrical tape wrapped over the screw holes in the blend door housing, then started the screws thru the 2 layers of tape pre-install and used a screw finder with retracting outer sleeve.with the T-20 bit inside the sliding tube of the finder trapped the bit in with plastic bag forced over the bit and then taped with electrical tape just to make sure, worked great. Found we had to remove both front seats and the gas pedal to gain access to the fan and connectors

[markk]

Brilliant video, thank you. I have been a mechanic for 20 years and this is one of the hardest jobs I have ever done. A good selection of different lengths of extensions is essential for getting to the screws around the air recirculation housing ( magnetic would be even better). And if like me you are working on a right hand drive with manual transmission/ gearbox you will need to get the clutch pedal and bracket out of the way, I managed to do it without fully removing it but it cut my hand to ribbons. I also found the aftermarket part was very difficult to turn to locate so I had to make a tool to turn it from the fan side. Hope this helps. Best of

[TorqueTheRich]

By far the best video out there on this repair. As long as you remember to pause, breathe and deliberately underreact when running into tough spots, it goes way smoother than I imagined. Thank you TRQ for making this video!!!

[turkeyguy]

Doing this one today and I have a few tips for people at about the halfway point. If you don't have a lift to get things at the perfect height and aren't one of the small guys or aren't very limber, a little platform outside the door about level with the door sill is helpful especially for the clip on the motor where in order to just reach for it and unclip easily by hand you'd have to remove pedal assembly and airbags. My car is a Focus ST, the stock wheels were nearly perfect height to throw a piece of plywood over and lay on and into the drivers side to be able to get the right angle to peek around for the clip and run a long screwdriver up in there to un-clip it (BREAK THAT POS). The Torx-20s on the Blend Door Actuator (Cage) can easily fall out of cheap magnetic bit drivers and there are several places up in here where you'll never find the bit again... while it's daylight or in advance, get a few extras... maybe even glue/epoxy a bit into a socket if all you can round up easy are bits. Another user in the comments here mentions the length of extension being a "goldilocks phenomenon", It really is especially for the lower T-20 however they said 6" was too short and 10" was too long, 7-8" was the perfect overall length for a bit driver. On the top t-20 I would've liked to have had a couple inches more, maybe 10-11". Lining up on the lower t-20 finally was accomplished without being able to see it by dragging the bit along the plastic corner of the actuator cage until it stopped against the end of the plastic then pulling the driver into the corner of the two and pushing up while pulling back in a slight but even amount a few times... if you start to feel a spongy resistance and can all of a sudden move the driver further, DOUBLE CAUTION, Your bit is about to become a permanent fixture of the vehicle and fall into one of three places that you'll never get it out of without a significant amount of magnet fishing AFTER everything is disassembled. The t-20 up top is pretty easy to find without seeing it, you can place your driver on the edge of a ridge on the cage and the ridge will run in about 7" straight to that torx screw, you can balance your driver on the ridge if you're careful and need to re-position once it's in the screw to give a good idea of just how in line it runs with this corner/ridge on the blend door cage. When it goes back together tomorrow, on the actuator cage, I'm taping the screws in and I'm going to start on the lower one with the bit driver already on it, fishing for that one to put the screw back in sounds like a real good way to lose that screw into the rest of the hvac system of the car or the insulation against the firewall or into the labyrinth of plastic in the dash below and I have to imagine this is where a few other people mentioning losing them lost theirs as well.

Will be back tomorrow to make an edit to this with anything else.

[SlashFest]

This job was a pain. I bought a cheap endoscope off Amazon to help find those Torx screws made it a little easier but still a pain. You don't have to remove the airbag, gas and break petal to get to the Electrical and locking tab on the blower. I did remove the driver seat (only 4 bolts and air bag connection super easy) that let me lay strait and get a good angle. I was able to easily disconnect the electrical and press the tab with my hand. I broke the tab on purpose since I was by my self. Hopes this helps someone. 2012 Ford Focus

[mrjon]

Making a few videos myself really makes me appreciate how much time he spent setting up camera shots, especially under a dash.

[DanSwinson]

Thank you for the excellent video. Love the narration. Love the easy-to-follow instructions. I got the blower out, but just can't get the new one in. Looks like no heat for me this winter.

[greendream]

Exceptional detail in the video.The engineering is a nightmare.

[benbaptist]

This video is amazing - it made a seemingly impossible repair (just barely) doable - no thanks to Ford. I successfully repaired my blower for a fraction of what it would've cost me. Thank you!

[stefanlopez]

What a pleasant tutorial to watch . Good video, well lit and great execution. Why does Ford make this removal so complicated? Wow, this could be a nightmare to an untrained tech .