How to Hang a Door the Easy Way - a DIY GUIDE

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Today's video is a complete DIY guide to hanging a door - with the rebating made so much easier with a trim router.

Here are a couple of other videos related to today's video that you might find useful:

Today's Toolkit UK (see below for US Tool Kit)*

Today's Toolkit US*

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And here's the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

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LET'S CONNECT!
Charlie DIYte

#router #door #hang
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Another great video Charlie, as for the hinge spacing I also used to think it was to male them appear equidistant however I learned from one of the comments on a "Skill Builder" video that that is not the quote ...

." the ACTUAL reason why we use a hinge spacing of 6" top/8" or 9" bottom. Pre-1890 there were no definitive standard-sized doors - a brickie or stonemason would leave a hole in a wall which was big enough to accommodate a 2" thick frame plus a door - usually around 6'6" x 2'6" for a regular internal, and he'd put in oak wedges between mortar courses to give the chippie something to nail the frame into - and more of the same wedges between vertical brick courses for skirtings, dado rails and so on. The chippie would then very often build a door onsite to fit the frame, unless he worked for a company with a local workshop where they could be done more easily. I actually finished making 12 new doors for a Victorian house last week - and every single one was a totally different size But anyway - in 1891, two companies started the first mass-production of doors - one in London, and another one up in West Yorkshire. Victorian doors would invariably be 4 or 6-panelled, but if you look at anything from that period, you'll always see that the bottom rail is half as deep again as the top rail, with the middle rail being dimensioned somewhere in between - this was done to make the door aesthetically pleasing. To make production faster and because there were no CNC routers back then, these doors were always made using through tenons - and the hinge spacing derived from the fact that when the doors were being hung, the chippie would always chop out the hinge rebates in a position to avoid the tenons - with the tenons ending 5" from the top of the door, and either 7" or 8" from the bottom. The reason why some chippies use 6+8 and others use 6+9 is that the two companies mentioned used different bottom rail depths - the Yorkshire ones were an inch lower than the London ones. That tradition has stuck to this very day. "

MAMDAVEM
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Subbed. I like the fact you don't have a £20, 000 + workshop and still do great work with affordable tools 👍

sjfarrell.
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Builder of 20yrs and fitted hundreds of doors the traditional way. Just bought a Dewalt 18v router and your tips were helpful. Cheers

gdfggggg
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It’s a lovely feeling hearing that door clicking closed when it’s hung right first time! CLICK.... another great vid, cheers bud

TheRorydean
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I just love this guy no flash tools just get the job done 10/10, he covers every bit from start to finish, not like the other door fitting installation with terrible music and speeded up videos covering every angle teaches people to do it the right way.
thumbs up all the way

richard
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Got to be one if not the best DIY channel going without these videos my house would be a rite state. Keep it up pal.

browesy
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Great clear instructional video, these small router/ trimmers truly are a game changer for door hanging and other jobs purely because of the size and weight of them and the neat jobs they produce and clearly speed things up, i’ve always found a good tip for hinges is to screw them in position first and then scribe around with a snap off knife which gets you in tight to the hinge, keep up your great work.

andrewhinton
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just a thought - if you used a couple more pieces of scrap wood with your pieces that you clamped to provide stability across the edge of the door you could create end stops for standard hinge sizes making it even easier to chop out the rebates quickly and accurately.

nigel
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Hung loads of doors and lucky enough to have the Makita, but never crossed my mind to chisel the edge first, great idea and will be doing this next time, thanks mate

MichaelWilson-fnjk
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I've just realised the Bosch is a bare tool. I assumed it came with a battery as most 12vs do, but it's greyed out in the picture. Dow, sorry about that!

CharlieDIYte
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I just bought (11) new doors for a remodel and had to route (22) door hinges. I used the Mikwaukee cordless router and a Ryobi hinge cutting template. Without those, I don't feel it would have gone near as well. Love these little compact routers. Enjoyed the video. Thanks!

mattro
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Excellent video. I've hung a couple of doors before and they were a mission. So many great tips here, made the job so much easier. I even cut wedges out of scrap to prop the door up. Thanks

martinwehipeihana
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I’m putting up a garden gate next week so this was perfect timing thank you.

coolhandxxx
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Nice vid Charlie, mark around the hinge in the first place with a knife, that is of corse after shooting the door into the opening and marking the position of the top of the top hinge the top of the bottom hinge of the with a chisel indent 👍😷

jimgeelan
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Awesome tips on this video. And agree with others that you manage to get excellent results without the expensive and expansive tool set

levrone
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2 tips for you Charlie, 1 outline the marked out butts with coloured masking tape do you can see more easily as you approach the stop point 2 clamp a piece of wood to the side of the door or frame which needs routing and that will keep the router level and not make a deeper gouge when you til the router out of level. Good work

craigpeel
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I can recommend the use of a corner chisel to square out the rounded corners of the rebate left by the router bit. The Trend one can be found on many UK web sites for £12 to £25.

David_K_Dickson
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Thanks Charlie, nice video, had the router for over a year, it’s great, made some nice jigs by removing the Perspex base and attaching directly such as circle jigs etc, 👍

richarddunn
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Loved the suggestion to use the router to cut the rebates; it gave a much better result than previous using my crappy chisels (and even crappier chiselling technique).

JohnnyNinetyNine
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Good video, I bought a Ryobi hinge jig and it is a good tool. Only one problem with it, it is made for the American market. 4 inch Hines and above is ok, he 3 inch hinges we use in the uk re 10 mm smaller in depth, so I had to make a pacer to fit in the jig. Keep the great video’ coming.

charles